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trouser chili
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Posted: Mon Jul 10th, 2006 19:16 |
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AccApp wrote:
Just be careful in there, unplug the unit when taking off wires!!!! You can arc out a nice little hole in the evaporator and there goes your fridge. I saw a defrost heater that did this once. You're lucky you just hit the fan bracket.
Yeah, I didn't even think arcing a hole in the evaporator. That would have been pricey. My usual modus operandi is based along the line of "it's already broken, I can only break it worse or fix it". Either way results in a satisfactory conclusion. I'm usually pretty happy if I manage to break something really well, and if I accidentally manage to fix it, there will always be another day when I have to take it apart again.Last edited on Mon Jul 10th, 2006 19:18 by trouser chili
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machineguy200
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Jul 10th, 2006 20:12 |
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AccApp,
Thanks for the advice. Of course, I wouldn't know what an evaporator was if I tripped over it.
In any event, I'll be careful. I've gone ahead and unplugged the refrigerator until I can get it fixed.
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machineguy200
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Jul 11th, 2006 22:23 |
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| I replaced the frost limiter and plugged in the fridge (it has been unplugged about 24 hours). The fan did not come on right away but I assume that the freezer has to get colder first. Correct?
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trouser chili
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Posted: Wed Jul 12th, 2006 01:58 |
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machineguy200 wrote:
I replaced the frost limiter and plugged in the fridge (it has been unplugged about 24 hours). The fan did not come on right away but I assume that the freezer has to get colder first. Correct?
It took a bit on mine. I closed the door for a bit and just waited for the evaporator to get cold. Once the defrost thermostat gets cold enough, it'll flip on the fan.
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Trying to help
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Fri Oct 21st, 2005 |
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Posted: Wed Jul 12th, 2006 03:45 |
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| Takes about 3 minutes of comp run time to kick it on with an already cold freezer. Closer to 10 on a warm one.
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machineguy200
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Posted: Thu Jul 13th, 2006 05:35 |
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You were quite right. The fan started up, everything is cold, life is good!
Thank you all so much for helping.
I have 1 other question. The freezer door seems to not want to stay closed. When the fridge door is opened the freezer door unseals leaving it slightly opened. Also, if the freezer door is opened then closed it doesn't want to seal properly either. If I open both doors, close the fridge side then push close the freezer side it will seal properly and stay closed.
I suspect that the humidity has something to do with this problem. This problem SEEMS to occur only in summer when the humidity is high. We had a service call on this refrigerator about 3-4 summers ago and I'm pretty sure it was the component that failed. Is that possible? Is there some way to make the freezer door stay shut?
Actually, I also think this situation is the cause of the defrost limiter failing. My idea is that the freezer door was actually open and we didn't realize it. The humidity caused a great amount of excess moisture to saturate the coils and everything around it. Eventually, it caused the defost limiter to then fail..... Does that sound plausible??
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trouser chili
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Posted: Thu Jul 13th, 2006 15:41 |
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machineguy200 wrote:
You were quite right. The fan started up, everything is cold, life is good!
Thank you all so much for helping.
I have 1 other question. The freezer door seems to not want to stay closed. When the fridge door is opened the freezer door unseals leaving it slightly opened. Also, if the freezer door is opened then closed it doesn't want to seal properly either. If I open both doors, close the fridge side then push close the freezer side it will seal properly and stay closed.
I suspect that the humidity has something to do with this problem. This problem SEEMS to occur only in summer when the humidity is high. We had a service call on this refrigerator about 3-4 summers ago and I'm pretty sure it was the component that failed. Is that possible? Is there some way to make the freezer door stay shut?
Actually, I also think this situation is the cause of the defrost limiter failing. My idea is that the freezer door was actually open and we didn't realize it. The humidity caused a great amount of excess moisture to saturate the coils and everything around it. Eventually, it caused the defost limiter to then fail..... Does that sound plausible??
My freezer door didn't want to shut right either. I found that the door seal on the left side was binding up and rolling over on itself just a bit when the door was shut. I used a screwdriver to set it right as I shut the door and then left the door shut for overnight. It's now shutting correctly. I may have to replace the seal someday soon though. Anyway, excess moisture in the freezer I'm sure was a contributing factor to the defrost limiter failing, but I've also got the impression that's they also just poorly made and failure-prone parts.
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rjlabs
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 23:35 |
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Amana side by side
ARS2665AB0
6 years old
Problem: Warm refriger
two defrost timers were replaced by Countywide Appliance didn't do the trick!
-one in late December
-another in late Feburary
Room temp on Refrigerator side
Warm upper freezer section
Cool & perhaps below 32 at the bottom of the freezer section
Refrigerator is running, lights on, etc.
True: there is warm air bowing out the back side of the refrigerator and at the toe plate
True: the evaporator coils are cold, ice packed near the top
True: the blower fan on top of the evaporator coils is NOT running (had to open up the pannel to verify that.
True: there is no flow of water out the door when pressed
Solution:
Replace defrost thermostat
After much searching (just try ARS2665AB as the model number or try PARS2665ABO)
Find the part is a clip on defrost thermostat L48-33 degrees
AP Wagener had one in stock
R0161088
Part also goes by:
PS192119
Bag on sealed part says R0161088 but paper insert inside bag says R0158920
Instructions on bag. Part thankfully says L48-33F and looks like a match.
1. Use the wire tie to secure the unused leads in a place away from the evaporator fan blade
2. use the cap ( M0321202 ) to cover the test plug terminals.
From the front of refrigerator I replace the thermostat folowing plugs, jacks and wire color as best I can. However the old thermostat cannont be removed without actully cutting two wires that run through to the BACK compartment.
What do those two wires go to, and how do I hook them up? Time to break out the soldering iron? How stupid is this design?
For now I just cut them, put on tape and let it go at that. Frig is at least cooling again.
Anyone have a wiring diagram and can tell me where they go and if I need to hook them up again?
As of right now I have a cold frig which is welcome but the through the door water is still not operational. Perhaps those two wires? Perhaps the water bottle remains frozen.
Only the Samurai knows for sure.....
I seek only wisdom here and am truely an apprentice.
Rick
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Trying to help
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Posted: Fri Mar 7th, 2008 00:12 |
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Hope this helps clear it up a little. It is used on the line to get the fan running with a warm evap. Techs can use it in the field as well. If you jump it, and your fan takes off, bad limiter.
Attachment: Amana Bi-metal.doc (Downloaded 6 times)
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rjlabs
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Posted: Fri Mar 7th, 2008 13:03 |
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Ahhh the "Trying to help" Samauri speaks with much wisdom!
Just cut the wires? Yes, just cut the wires! 
Defrost thermostat -- GOOD TO KNOW!
Factory Service note when replacing the defrost thermostat -"The two wires that lead from the defrost thermostat are TEST LEADS for use during factory assemply only...cut them short where they disappear into the wall...Once cut they need not be replaced or repaired."
I see as an apprentice Samurai I have much to learn in the flow and potential disturbances of Chi around parts. Why for instance does the master parts maker elect to include notes on how to use a standard wire tie (now that's real useful) on the paper insert for the part, yet elect to omit the above tidbit?
And yes, the through the door water is now working. A continuing running compressor that is trying to cool down the frig without the aid of the evaporator fan running (due to a defrost thermostate failure) does tend to ice over the water lines. Even if you defrost the coils - carefully with a hair drier so as not to melt the very pliable plastic in that area - when you go to replace the defrost thermostat, the water storrage bottles may remain frozen. Time alone after a thermostat replacement solves that problem.
Live is again good in the kitchen.
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