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sub-zero 642/s  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Aug 3rd, 2006 04:37 pm
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subzero
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Hi Again!

The technician came, he said the fan at the top behind the compressor is not running. He said that needs to be replaced. I also pointed out that the seal on the door is always warm. He said that should not be the case, but the fan replacement should fix it.  He will call me with a quote for the fan replacement. What do you think of the diagnosis? My cheap fridges never gave me trouble like this after only two years. I am really upset!

 

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 Posted: Fri Aug 4th, 2006 03:03 am
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AccApp
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What kind of schmo working on Sub-Zero's doesn't carry a condenser fan motor with him? Is this guy authorized? I buy them by the dozen. I find they fail right around the two-year mark or later.

The divider between the compartments as well as the trim around the frame will get warm when the condenser fan motor fails, sometimes it can be too hot to touch. I am surprised it was able to hold temperature with a non-running condenser fan for such a long time.

I also find a lot of times the high head pressure caused by the lack of proper condenser operation will cause a borderline ref evaporator to leak. I do many combos like this.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 02:50 am
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subzero
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Hi, me again. Since our last conversation subzero paid for a new fan, but i paid $300 for installation. The fan was working until this week. The air flow stopped since then. The weather got cooler in the house. I am wondering if the fan is on a thermostat, or if it died again?

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 Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 02:53 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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subzero wrote:
Since our last conversation subzero paid for a new fan, but i paid $300 for installation.
Dayyam, I need to raise my rates! :shock:



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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2006 11:22 pm
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mnevar
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I have a model 650 and when I take the back wall out of the fridge, I see a couple of white connector things, but nothing that looks like the thermistors shown on the repairclinic.com website. One set har wires coming out which go into a black plastic block screwed to the back wall. Another set is mounted to the evaporator. Are these the thermistors and am I looking at 2 or 4?

Wait, I just looked more closely at the instructions ans I see the thermistor is the black thing. What I took for the thermistors are just wire connectors. Since my fridge has these plastic connectors, I'd think they would make a thermistor with the plastic connector.

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2006 11:30 pm by mnevar

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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2006 03:30 am
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AccApp
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mnevar wrote: What I took for the thermistors are just wire connectors. Since my fridge has these plastic connectors, I'd think they would make a thermistor with the plastic connector.

What fails most often is the electrical connections between the metal connector pins inside the connectors due to the amount of ambient moisture. The kit addresses this issue by insuring a good connection if the butt connectors are properly crimped to properly prepared wires.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 29th, 2006 02:09 am
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mnevar
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Thanks. I didn't replace anything yet. Instead, I gave the unit a good cleaning and vacuuming of the condenser. While still apary, the unit worked great and the temperature dropped back down. After a week, the temperature is back up. The readout still reads low, but the actual temperature is hovering around 50. I get no error codes and the temperature reading never goes up (although it did do this a few months ago). Does this sound like a thermistor problem?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 29th, 2006 05:01 am
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AccApp
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Does the ref comp run all the time? Pull off the back panel in the ref compartment and look at the frost pattern on the evap coil. You were in there once, what was the frost pattern then? And start a new thread already.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 1st, 2006 12:41 am
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mnevar
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AccApp wrote: Does the ref comp run all the time? Pull off the back panel in the ref compartment and look at the frost pattern on the evap coil. You were in there once, what was the frost pattern then? And start a new thread already.

No, the compressor runs only for a short period of time. The evaporator coil is cold, but it doesn't have any frost on it. It was replaced about 18 months ago under warranty.

Just today, the temperature read 28, even though the actual temp was 52.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 1st, 2006 02:06 am
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AccApp
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No, really, you can start a new thread.

As a servicer who likes his customers to have stuff that works and problem free profitably I would replace the board and both ref thermistors and wait for the customer to call me for another appliance to break.


If you'd like to cheap out, try to bypass the plastic connectors by cutting them out and splicing the cut wires with butt connectors and using some heat shrink tubing to insure a water tight seal.



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"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

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 Posted: Tue May 19th, 2009 01:04 pm
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upallnight
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So when you replace the thermisters in the frig, you need to cut off the old connectors, and connect the new thermistors with butt connector to bare wires?

When I replace the thermisters I unplugged the thermisters cut the wire below the plug, crimp the wire from the thermister onto the wire and plugged the thermisters back in. I take it this is wrong?

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 Posted: Tue May 19th, 2009 07:29 pm
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AccApp
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Yes, the reason the kit comes with the butt connectors is to bypass the problematic connectors. I've seen lots of connectors get corroded in service.



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"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

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 Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 08:12 pm
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upallnight
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Thanks for the explanation. It looks like I'm going to have to order two new tthermistors and do the repair again.

Again thanks for all your help. You been a life saver, especially during these economic times.

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