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dunderdart
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 02:26 |
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Model: W256B Run: 01 Serial Number: 107138DS
Some back ground: The display on the oven goes off at times. Letting the oven door slam or giving it a hearty thump to the top of the display would cause the display to come back on. The oven worked whether or not the display was lit. I lived with this, no big deal.
So... I come home today and the oven is beeping. The PRB is lit. None of the touch pad buttons do a thing. I turn off the breaker, turn it back on, and the oven starts beeping again with the PRB lit. I removed the front panel and discovered that the "membrane switch tail" for the touch pad was disconnected from the J1 connector. Now I'm feeling a little bad about all that door slamming and hearty thumping. I push the switch tail back into the connector and the touch pad now works, however, the PRB light is on with the beeping. I disconnect the probe connector from the J3 connector and the beeping stops. I come to this website and see that it is suggested that the probe receptacle be cleaned out which i did, but, still the beeping and PRB is lit. I got my multimeter and after finding new batteries for it, measured the resistance across the two probe receptacle wires that plug into the board. I measured 0.36 Mega ohms.
I'm not a big probe user anyway, so it won't break my heart to disconnect it and leave it at that, but, in pursuit of at least attempting to do things right... Might you have any idea what could possibly be wrong???
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cdwasher
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 03:44 |
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| if you disconect the prb from the control board and it stops peebing did you check the harness for short or ground post the model #
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cdwasher
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 03:46 |
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| also try to locate tech sheet and see what the prob is rated for and it may have a flow chart post back
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Trying to help
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 03:57 |
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| You should be open across your two terminals on your probe Jack. The slightest bleed through grease will cause it to sense that the probe has been inserted. Leaving it off will do no harm. IF you do want to fix it, verify your harness is not shorted in any way to ground, and order in the probe jack. The probe jack is probably about 30$ and available via the BLUE link above. To access it, just pull the unit out about 8" and it's right there. As far as your fading display. The clock gets it's power from the RT side circuit board. It feeds the clock on the J2 harness providing 4.5 VAC to the clock for display on wires 12-8. The J2 is a white wire harness with the wire #'s labeled (Those are the wire numbers, not there positions!!). They cared about technicians in those day's!!! You probably just have a loose connection at the harness.
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dunderdart
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 05:03 |
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| Thank you for the suggestions. I'll check the harness and the jack and see what happens.
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dunderdart
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 05:15 |
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ahhh ha!!! having read your suggestion about the J2 plug and the display, I went back to my faulty stove and did see that the J2 was indeed not fully connected. Upon connecting in correctly, i plugged the J3 probe connector back in and... tada!!! no more beeping and no more PRB lit.
Thank you, thank you...
and my stove thanks you because i will no longer have to physically abuse it to turn the display on.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Fri Jun 23rd, 2006 06:57 |
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| Your display will probably be good to go if it was loose as you state. The PRB signal........we will see after the unit heats up a few times. I see a probe jack or leaving the J3 off permanently in your future. Glad your up and running now.
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dunderdart
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Posted: Sat Jun 24th, 2006 05:34 |
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You are correct. The PRB started beeping again at 5 AM. It didn't bother me so much as my bedroom is far from the kitchen, however, it did drive my son a bit batty proven by the fact that he tried to jam towels around the stove to baffle the beeping. It's disconnected now. Oh yeah, the display decided to turn off again even though the J2 was connected. More thumping to the front of the stove....
I imagine I'll be back on again in a few months to ask about the next deterioration of the system..
Thanks for all your help!!
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dunderdart
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Posted: Sat Mar 29th, 2008 01:03 |
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It is 2 years after I originally got help... Things with the oven started going haywire. Only a portion of the buttons worked. The fan for the convection oven would just start running. I broke down and bought a new controller and installed it... alas, most of the buttons still don't work. Do I need to replace the button panel???
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Trying to help
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Posted: Sat Mar 29th, 2008 03:29 |
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| Probably, but as always, testing it to be sure would be the best way. The touch pad has traces on it. When you select a program and push the selection, you close the contact and provide a return signal to the board to tell it what has been selected. The TP can be ohmed with a meter and an extra set of hands. One person selects the program and holds it down closing the circuit while the other person ohms the two traces of the TP. What selections do not work so we can tell if there is any common link? Also, you state it does not work, are the buttons in question dead, or when you push them they accept the command but do not carry out the function? Has it sprouted up any more codes? The older the units get, the more $$ the parts are so you want to be sure.
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dunderdart
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Posted: Sat Mar 29th, 2008 04:07 |
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bake and broil work for both upper and lower ovens. probe works. upper cook timer, clock, and timer work. cancel and clean for both ovens do not work. lower cook time and stop time do not work. when i say "not work", there is no beep nor any other reaction when i push them. I was attempting to use an ohm meter to check the buttons. will pushing a button cause the a swtich to close between the seperate trace on the ribbon and another?
i've recieved no other codes, however, the display still turns off... a thump cures it. it might be a loose connection in the J2 wires??
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Trying to help
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Posted: Sat Mar 29th, 2008 11:42 |
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As far as the display fading goes, the info posted on June 22 is still your daddy. As far as the no programing, I believe your TP will have a total of 14 traces or lines on it. One by it self, and the other grouped together. The one by it self is one, the other end is 14. Prior to removing it and ohming it, make sure it is seated correctly. You never know, especially on an older unit.
Cancel Lower- 5-14
Cancel Upper- 6-14
Upper Clean- 1-9
Lower Clean- 4-9
To verify you are checking them correctly, below are tests for selections you state work fine.
Bake Upper- 1-7
Bake Lower - 4-7
ALL CHECKS ARE DONE WITH TP REMOVED FROM THE UNIT, PLACE IT ON A FLAT SURFACE AND HAVE SOMEONE HOLD IN THE DESIRED SELECTION WHILE YOU OHM THE TRACES. ON A GOOD PAD, YOU WILL SEE THE RESISTANCE CHANGE FROM OPEN(NOT PUSHED) TO A CLOSED READING OF APPROXIMATELY 50-100 OHMS.
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dunderdart
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Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 17:35 |
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| I've been out of town for 2 weeks, so i'm just getting back to this. There are only 12 traces on the TP, however, on the circuit board the contacts are listed TP1 through TP15 so i'll make the assumption that the combinations you mentioned relate to those contacts. With the ribbon detached from the circuit board i tested the various combinations you gave and none of them showed continuity, even the ones that i know work. So... I started the lower oven by pressing the lower bake button and setting the temperature. I then shorted TP5 to TP14 on the connector on the circuit board and it did not cancel. I'm now confused on two points. One, why didn't any of the switches show continuity (by the way I tried all combinations for the lower bake button and none showed continuity and i do know how to use my multimeter) and Two, why doesn't shorting the two contacts on the circuit board cancel it. I'm tempted to simply buy a TP but i'd be a bit angry with myself if it didn't fix it as the TP is around $200. Any ideas??
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