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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Subzero icing on back wall |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 |
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| Subzero icing on back wall | Rating: 
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| Posted: Mon Sep 8th, 2008 03:36 pm |
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21st Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks I'll pick up a fan motor and switch just in case. Things went well this morning after it was running. Currently it has stopped working again. Can anyone tell me what year my 550 is based on the SN above? Wanting to see if it's still covered under the 12 year. Thanks
____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 8th, 2008 04:07 pm |
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22nd Post |
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purdiferis Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Call Sub-zero.....wait 12 years seems like a long warrenty?
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| Posted: Mon Sep 8th, 2008 04:12 pm |
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23rd Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I thought so to. But there's mention of a 12 year warranty up thread. I have time to deal with the larger problem of the freon leak. I can call Sub and also check the paperwork I may have stashed somewhere AFA purchase date. For now I'll replace the fridge fan and switch, have them now. At least it's nice to have a parts distributor about a mile away. Last edited on Mon Sep 8th, 2008 04:12 pm by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 8th, 2008 09:32 pm |
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24th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK - so let me know if I should keep this on another thread. Since I'm talking about the Fridge Fan operation now. I have the parts to repalce the FF motor and switch. But - it's working (again). Can I be certain that the FF should ALWAYS work on this model and SN. If so - I will replace as intermittant failure. It's working now, things are pretty much OK, again. Can you have intermittant failure? Or does this model operate the FF under certain conditions as in when the compressor is running?? Want to make sure if I should return the parts before I disturb packing or simply replace. Thanks
____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 8th, 2008 10:20 pm |
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25th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... yes, on that Model (and serial number) the Fridge Fan runs anytime the Door Switch is closed...keep going in this thread so we know what's been tested and changed... Attachment: Page from 3756330_1stEd_500Series_MnlCmplt_07-21-03.pdf (Downloaded 22 times) Last edited on Mon Sep 8th, 2008 10:25 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 9th, 2008 03:26 am |
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26th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the schematic. Sure enough shows it wired straight through the switch only. Odd behavior some times it's working sometimes not. I'll be changing it out tonight.
____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 9th, 2008 04:39 pm |
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27th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ok - so I completed the fridge fan replacement today. As I woke up this morning the fan was not working. Tried replacing the fan switch and NG - left the new switch in. Removed shelving and drawers noticed this ice on the bottom right corner. I am assuming this is from condensation collecting due to intermittant fan operation and poor air circulation.  Pulled top and back panels out and found that the condensor was ice free. So looks like the freon is holding still and the leak is actually slow as the repairman said. I will be confirming there is no warranty and will probably continue on this thread and site to see what my alternatives are in doing some of this work myself. I may purchase the parts ahead of time and be ready (know how) to replace if the box starts getting warm. I am thinking that I could do the parts replacements (dryer and condensor) myself or see if I can locate the leak and repair it. I am wondering if it is possible to rent the appropriate gauge set and tools to discharge and recharge, etc. But I digress. Defrost tube and drain were free, also good news. Note heater kit I installed a few years ago.  Here's the new fan assembly on the right. As expected assembly was required based on make and model. All new parts including gromets, connectors, etc except for the fan blade which was re-used. BTW - the old fan started working once the box cooled down (before removal). I am assuming there was a problem with windings or something in the original motor where once cold contraction was causing intermittan open circuit problem. Everything back together and working now. We'll see if it continues to work once temps get back down below 40 degrees.  So now time to start looking into the bigger bill that's down the road a few months and if I can do some or all of the work myself. I'll keep fingers crossed that this fridge fan issue is resolved. Thanks for the support!
____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 9th, 2008 09:03 pm |
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28th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well, guess what? Just checked the fan and it's off. Internal temp is about 38 deg top to bottom so it's definitely been operating, I had been checking it occaisionally. So looks to me that there is something else that allows the fan to operate during certain times or prevents it. Perhaps it's only supposed to work when the compressor is running or isn't supposed to operate on defrost?? Schematic is pretty clear though that it's wired direct. Wonder if there is a splice or junction that has an intermittent connection when cold. No chance that Last edited on Tue Sep 9th, 2008 09:58 pm by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 10th, 2008 12:46 am |
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29th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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... so... does it run only when the Compressor is running (and the Door Switch is closed) ? Are you sure of the serial number ? Serial numbers M68116 & up have the Fridge Fan connected through the Cold Control (and Door Switch). Last edited on Wed Sep 10th, 2008 12:53 am by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 10th, 2008 01:22 am |
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30th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: Are you sure of the serial number ? Serial numbers M68116 & up have the Fridge Fan connected through the Cold Control (and Door Switch).  M964139 - oops!
____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 10th, 2008 01:47 am |
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31st Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Attachment: Another page from 3756330_1stEd_500Series_MnlCmplt_07-21-03.pdf (Downloaded 21 times)
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 10th, 2008 02:12 am |
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32nd Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the schematic (again). Well fan wasn't working since my post at 19:03. Bottom at 38 degrees top shelf at about 52 degrees at this point. Looked at the schematic above. So went to the fridge, held the fan switch closed, no fan, tapped the thermostat at the knob - fan starts running. Looks like it's the thermostat/cold switch. At least the fan motor and switch were the originals. Less than $50, not too bad, going to just leave them in. Last edited on Wed Sep 10th, 2008 02:13 am by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 10th, 2008 02:07 pm |
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33rd Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Playing with the fan a bit today. Stopped working again, taps on the cold control didn't work but held the door switch in and turned the control dial and heard a click, the fan started and continues to run. Just got back with a cold control, so I will be replacing that. Only $50, so not too bad. Thinking back I remember weird cases where we would find condensation at times on contents and the bottom drawers freezing. I think this cold control was breaking down or acting up intermittently for a couple years. I am beginning to wonder if the loss of freon is really secondary as this unit is 16 years old, and the bigger issue was the cold control going bad keeping the fridge fan from running at times. Guess we'll see. I'll replace the cold control tonight. Best I can tell is that the fridge fan should run full time, but is just fed through the cold control. If anyone knows how the fan is controlled other than always on, it would be good to know. Last edited on Wed Sep 10th, 2008 02:08 pm by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 10th, 2008 04:09 pm |
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34th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Cold control replaced, we'll watch things now and see if the fan keeps working and temps remain even inside the fridge. Last edited on Wed Sep 10th, 2008 04:09 pm by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13th, 2008 08:58 am |
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35th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Everything seems fine now. I do not have huge differences top to bottom drawer like I had before. Now there is typically a 10 degree difference on average. Talked with Sub Zero, they mentioned to measure food temp, not air temp over 24 hr's (use a glass of water). Food temps should average out over a week. So - the cold control was definitely not always working based on behavior of the fan operation (see thread above). But - the fridge fan on this model as opposed to earlier version is not constant run (with door closed). Frankly I don't like it and want the air mixed all the time. I like the temperatures to be averaged out always not over time. So I modified the wiring back to the previous models where the fridge fan is always on with the door closed as seen on the first schematic. Simply used and in line insulated tap from the hot side of the light switch to the hot side of the fan switch. Even temps throughout now and drinks are always cold and none of the occasional condensation on the bottles. I'm still wondering if the recharge due to the diagnosed "slow freon leak" will last longer than the 6 months suggested by the repair person. We'll see. In the meantime I'll be looking at the possibility of replacing the coil and dryer at some point in the future. There was no icing of the coil on the left anymore when I pulled things apart to replace the cold switch, so all seems good for now. Thanks for the help. Last edited on Sat Sep 13th, 2008 08:59 am by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2008 04:24 pm |
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36th Post |
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reeferman Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have a subzero 550 also with ice building up in drain compartment. Tried three times clearing/defrosting and problem reoccurs. What/how did you resolve this problem?
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| Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2008 08:55 pm |
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37th Post |
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rbenash Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Look at my pics, specifically the one that shows the condenser. Notice the wires running down through the center. That's a heater kit. This is available from SZ. There were problems with the drain tube freezing up and this was the fix/retrofit. Check to see if you have one of these. If not, add it and your trouble will go away! Other than that, and this is now conjecture. If you don't have a constant run cabinet fan the lower levels will be colder than the top since the air is not constantly mixing. I really feel that this heater kit was a requirement after SZ did a design change on the fan electrics to make it only come on when the compressor was running. Lower shelf is colder most of the time, making things freeze up on the drain tube and trough. On the older 550's SZ switched the design in later models from a constant run cabinet fan to circuitry that had the fan only switch on when the compressor was running. I am thinking if you simply rewire to a constant run fan, you won't need that heater kit. Last edited on Fri Dec 19th, 2008 08:59 pm by rbenash ____________________ Ray |
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| Posted: Fri Dec 19th, 2008 09:29 pm |
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38th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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here's a thread that may help http://applianceguru.com/forum1/16855.html and this: goes under the Evaporator on some models click on picture  and this one: drapes vertically on the Evaporator on some models click on picture 
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23rd, 2008 10:38 pm |
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39th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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If ice on the floor below the crisper drawers and ice / frost on the lower edge of the evap panel, use part number sub-0 4202530 (repair clinic p/n 819060?) you get the floor heater plus the drain tube heater..... The insulation is not insulating as good as when it was new........( see sub-zero 550 by reeferman) Last edited on Tue Dec 23rd, 2008 10:40 pm by certified tech group 51 |
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