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GE XL44 oven stopped working  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue May 9th, 2006 06:19 pm
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rtinpa
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I have a GE XL44 Model JGBP25GEN5AD and the oven stopped working in the middle of using it. The stove burners on top work, but nothing happens when the oven is turned on. Neither bake or broil work and the red indicator light does not come on. Neither igniter lights up. I think it may be the lower baking ingniter, but I'm not sure. Would the broiler (top igniter) still work if the baking one goes bad? Should the red indicator light still come on? Thanks for any help.

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 Posted: Tue May 9th, 2006 06:33 pm
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Pegi
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I would be checking to see where you have lost voltage either to the oven control or from the control to the oven, sounds like you might have a burnt wire or a control that has bit the dust...



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 Posted: Fri May 12th, 2006 05:58 pm
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rtinpa
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Pegi, thanks for the advise. I decided this was a little beyond me and called a repair guy. He first checked my thermostat and said it had continuity (which usually means it's good). But he said it couldn't be anthing else based on the symptoms. So, he bypassed the thermostat switch (pulled off a wire and connected it to a bolt sticking out on the back) and the light came on and the broiler worked. Then he found that the ignitor in the lower oven was also bad. With $200 in parts, now I'm deciding if it's worth fixing. Thanks.

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 Posted: Sat May 13th, 2006 04:43 pm
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Pyrrho
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Hmm, I have a similar problem with my GE XL44 -- the broiler works but the lower oven does not. I'm guessing it might be a bad ignitor. I must study the pages here first...

 

 

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 Posted: Sun May 14th, 2006 12:11 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Start troubleshooting at the ignitor. Details on this page: http://fixitnow.com/2004/09/appliance-repair-revelation.htm



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 Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 02:58 pm
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Pyrrho
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Testing shows that one wire leading to the ignitor has voltage, the other wire has none. Haven't got a clamp-on ammeter, just an el-cheapo thingamabob that shows if a wire has voltage or not. Anyway, should both wires have voltage? Does that mean the ignitor has no continuity, or does it mean a disconnection elsewhere in the system?

 

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 Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 04:23 pm
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Pegi
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Looks like you need to trace back to see where you have lost one side of the voltage to the igniter....should have 120 volts to the igniter..



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 Posted: Sun May 21st, 2006 06:47 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If you're using a light stick, it will only indicate voltage on one side of the ignitor-- the other side is the return part of the circuit and will not light up. This is true for any load, be it a fan, light bulb, or hair dryer.

You need to use a meter and measure the voltage you're getting to the ignitor to rule out the possibility that you're getting junk voltage (anything less than 120vac, nominal).



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