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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Refrigerator Stopped Working |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2   |
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| Maytag Refrigerator Stopped Working | Rating: 
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| Posted: Mon Apr 10th, 2006 08:35 am |
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1st Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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Maytag Refrigerator (MSD2756AEB) Side by Side suddenly stopped working. Freezer and refrigerator sections both warmed up. I don't hear the compressor turning on, but I do keep hearing what sounds like a relay clicking every few minutes. I got down in back, and discovered the clicking is from the "run capacitor" (looks like a large black relay). I however, don't hear anything (like the compressor running) but the clicking, and the fan running in the back. Not sure if it's a defective run capacitor or compressor... Last edited on Tue Apr 11th, 2006 05:43 am by jtgt350 |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 10th, 2006 01:32 pm |
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2nd Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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I bypassed (jumped) the run capacitor (looks like a large black relay), and still nothing. The compressor does not kick on at all. If I need a new compressor, I'm assuming it'll be not worth fixing? This unit is about 5 years old, and I've had nothing but problems with it (had the defrost timer board changed 3 times already), but I'd hate to spend for a new unit right now. Any thoughts?
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 05:05 am |
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3rd Post |
Crouching Tiger
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The sound you are hearing is the overload clicking. The relay/overload is attached to the side of the compressor. Remove it and give it a shake - if it rattles than replace it. If the compressor still doesn't run with a new relay/overload than check your warranty for replacement of the compressor. FYI the compressor should still operate run with a faulty run capacitor but it will decrease it's efficiency.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 11:00 am |
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4th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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And also, you shouldn't be jumping the run capacitor. By doing so you would be sending constant power to both the run and start windings and burn the compressor out if left running this way.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 01:29 pm |
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5th Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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I disconnected the part, and it looks/smells burnt. I shake it, and it rattles, Great I thought, now all I have to do is replace the part. Easier said than done it seems.... OK, does anyone know where I can get this part? I went to the local Maytag supply house, and was told this part is "No longer available" and that basically, I'd have to have someone replace the compressor with a newer model (which does not use this relay! I told them is ridiculous. They told me Maytag issued no replacement part for this one. I've checked just about everywhere online, only to see "Not Available" or "No Longer Available" with no replacement number. I called 3 of the suppliers directly, only to be told basically the same thing the parts guy told me....
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 03:16 pm |
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6th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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You're looking in the wrong places, then..... Relay, Maytag Part Number 61005504 (was 61003115), in stock at $12.75 at our parts partner RepairClinic.com.  Overload, Maytag Part Number 61003116, in stock at $8.70 at our parts partner RepairClinic.com. Order through the "Appliance Parts" link at the top of the page - not only does it help support this site, plus you can return any item for any reason within 30 days for a full refund less shipping. Best return policy in the business.
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 04:51 pm |
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7th Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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Thanks! I just realized after looking at your pictures that BOTH parts are contained in the single housing that I pulled off of the compressor (large white plastic housing). The housing has a Maytag part number (PS106635) stamped on it-which is what I have been trying to get. The guy at the parts counter never even mentioned anything to me about opening the housing and getting the 2 parts seperately! I just have to figure out how to open this housing without breaking it now (the plastic seems very brittle).
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 04:59 pm |
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8th Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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OK, I opened the housing, and the overload switch seemed fine. The relay however was totally gone (just the contacts and black ashes in the housing). Should I be concerned there is possibly something wrong with the compressor at this point to have caused this, or should I just replace the relay in the housing and plug it back in????
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 05:12 pm |
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9th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I'd take a shot at the relay, order an overload as well while you're at it.
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 05:15 pm |
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10th Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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I agree. I've ordered both pieces just to be on the "safe side". My concern is what caused the relay to burn up like that? An issue with the compressor itself that I have to worry about? Thanks for all of your help!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 11th, 2006 05:18 pm |
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11th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Just happens sometimes. Simple as that. It's a common thing on Whirlpool built SxS too.
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 12th, 2006 09:12 pm |
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12th Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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OK, I figured I'd update in case anyone has the same problem. Maytag replaced the old relay with another one instead. The new relay does not fit into the white plastic housing that holds both the relay and the overload switch, so they must be mounted individually outside of the housing to the compressor itself. The newer relay also has a different sized male blade terminal than the old one, which means you will need to replace the female blade terminal on the harness to fit onto the new relay (or slice the plastic insulator on the existing terminal and widen it to fit the new relay). After installing them, the compressor turned on again, so now I'll have to just wait and see. My biggest fear is if the relay burns up again as it did with the last one, it won't be housed in anything as it was before...
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| Posted: Wed Apr 12th, 2006 10:40 pm |
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13th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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What this says to me is that the relay originally used wasn't up to the job, and they replaced it with an uprated one. I'm personally unaware of any instances of a refrigerator catching fire from the relay frying. I think you're going to be OK!
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Wed May 10th, 2006 11:43 pm |
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14th Post |
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jtgt350 Grasshopper
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OK, everything worked after replacing the relays. Only problem is now everything is too cold, and anything on the top shelf freezes, and in the vegetable/fruit compartments. I have the freezer and fridge set to "1" and it's still too cold.... Any suggestions?
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| Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 04:17 am |
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15th Post |
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vfp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I ran into the very same issue last week. My Maytag refrigerator (MSD2756AEB) also suddenly stopped working. Both freezer and refrigerator sections both dead. Just the lights working. After hearing all the horror stories about crapy Maytag service (btw I am out of warranty period) we decided to buy a new one. My refrigerator is about 7 years old. That is when I saw this posting and decided to try fixing it. I located the large white plastic housing attached to the side of the compressor. I heard rattling when I shook it. So I opened the casing after few attempts. It was completely burned out inside. Even the contacts were totally black and brittle. I must have damaged the white cacing while opening it to see the relay. Where can I find the part. (the casing and everything inside it. The part number on the white casing is 4SP1034. Below this is 15X992. Made in Mexico. Thanks
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| Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 04:27 am |
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16th Post |
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Northern-Tech Master Appliantologist
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Possibly the thermostat is stuck closed, causing the unit to run steady ?? Did the unit run steady before the original problem ?? I believe one of the knobs you are turning is the t- stat, and the other is the cold air flow control? What happens when you turn either control down to 0 ??
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| Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 04:40 am |
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17th Post |
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vfp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yes. My refrigerator was working great. No problems so far for 7 years. Early last week, I noticed that the fridge door was hitting the middle partition wall while closing it. So I just lightly banged the middle partition a little from the fridge side. Not too hard. Next day morning, I saw water under the refrigerator and that is when I noticed the freezer stuff had melted and the fridge also was not working. And now, I have the damaged relay/overload while removing it. (it was already burned) On the top of the fridge section, There is control for setting Fridge and Freezer coolness. Usually I keep them in the center (upper for Fridge and lower for Freezer). I tried setting them to highest too. I have not tried turning them to 0 and now I cannot do it without replacing the relay/overload. Anyway, this was burned and was smelling of ash. How did it get so badly burned? Any ideas... Last edited on Sat May 20th, 2006 04:49 am by vfp |
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| Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 08:44 am |
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18th Post |
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Northern-Tech Master Appliantologist
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I would unplug the fridge, remove the t- stat, remove both wires, and check for continuity on the t- stat itself when its turned " off ". If its open when off, , and closes when you turn it up, i would think it should be ok. There may be an adjusting screw(s) for cut in, and cut out temp. You mentioned that you had to do some re - wiring for the overload relay, etc..............possibly something to do with that ???
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| Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 01:00 pm |
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19th Post |
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vfp Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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"You mentioned that you had to do some re - wiring for the overload relay, etc..............possibly something to do with that ??? That was not me that was jtgt350. My appologies if I confused you by posting here. It was just that I had the exact same problem and thought of continuing with this existing post than creating new post. What is t-stat? Where is it located on MSD2756AEB? I am not that knowledgable with Refrigerator parts and circuit. Where do I need to check for continuity once I locate the p-stat. I do have a multimeter.
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| Posted: Sat May 20th, 2006 02:09 pm |
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20th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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vfp wrote:I located the large white plastic housing attached to the side of the compressor. I heard rattling when I shook it. So I opened the casing after few attempts. It was completely burned out inside. Even the contacts were totally black and brittle. I must have damaged the white cacing while opening it to see the relay. Where can I find the part. (the casing and everything inside it. Did you try to remove the casing on the compressor with the refrigerator still plugged in? Sounds like you need a new start relay and possibly a new overload. More info on this page: http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/12/01/refrigerator-warming-up-and-makes-an-occasional-clicking-noise/ It has links to the relay you need. If you need the overload, too, you can get it here: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=664995 P.S. The thermostat has nothing to do with this problem, stop looking for it.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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