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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Beaumark diswhasher leaky part - what part is this?

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Beaumark diswhasher leaky part - what part is this?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 12:26 am
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je
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My Beaumark diswasher (Hudson's Bay Co, dont know who made it for them) has a busted part under it that needs repair or replacement. It's made of white plastic, looks like nylon, and is at the bottom of the unit.

Where does one get one of these to replace (it looks to have been repaired once already, pretty badly too), or can it be repaired (plugged up with a plug and epoxy) ?

 

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 Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 01:54 am
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je
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Here is a picture. It's the white box, the previous owner seems to have plugged with silicon (really badly).

Should those 2 bungs be bridged? What's the result if they arent?

Can they be plugged with expoxy and a cover, instead of silicone?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 01:58 am
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je
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picture

Attachment: thingy4.jpg (Downloaded 139 times)

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 Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 01:59 am
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je
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another picture, close up.

Attachment: thingy2.jpg (Downloaded 138 times)

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 Posted: Tue Mar 14th, 2006 05:49 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I believe this is the part you need:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=824345



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 Posted: Tue Mar 14th, 2006 10:28 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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He's going to need lots more than just that part Samurai!!!!

Notice, some goobber has siliconed all the fitting up, the chamber may actually be ok if you clean all the silicone off and maybe replace the piston assembly.

But, If you notice all the hoses to the chamber are missing. The goobber who worked on it removed all the soil chamber hoses , TRIED to silicone all openings shut and attached the drain hose directly to the drain outlet on the pump and discarded all the required hoses.

By the way Je, where's the model#? That would allow us to assist you better. Don't know if it would help in this case, I don't know if a Beaumark model number would show up in any listing I have. This is just a standard G.E. built dishwasher though.

You also could do as you suggested, bridge the inlet and outlet on the chamber with a hose with hose clamps to make sure it doesn't leak. The older and lower level units never had the soil chamber and yours has obviously been running ok like this for quite some time before the silicone plugs gave way and started leaking.

Last edited on Tue Mar 14th, 2006 10:32 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Tue Mar 14th, 2006 12:59 pm
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je
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The model is 404440157. Would it help to put up a picture of the door and inside? Could anyone recognize it as another company's item? It is 9 years old, same as all the other appliances in our resale house that I can also make posts about. :X

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 Posted: Tue Mar 14th, 2006 01:03 pm
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je
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Besides that, Im not sure where any other hoses would attach to?

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 Posted: Wed Mar 15th, 2006 09:32 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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je wrote:
The model is 404440157. Would it help to put up a picture of the door and inside? Could anyone recognize it as another company's item? It is 9 years old, same as all the other appliances in our resale house that I can also make posts about. :X

That number looks more like a serial number not a model number, (I have never seen a Beaumark branded product so have no idea what their model numbers look like).

For sure, this is a standard G.E. dishwasher though and most parts except for the timers and control panels are all the same in the G.E. built units. I know I have one that has the soil collection chamber in my back yard of used appliances. I will look at one tommorrow to get a model number so I can link you to some pictures of how the hoses are attached.

If I remember correctly, it's just one extra small hose that runs from the pump drain outlet where the current drain hose is attached to one of the bungs on the chamber then the drain hose connects to the other bung on the chamber.

The only thing I would really be concerned about with blocking the chamber off like has been done is the possible accumulation of gookus and biohazards in the chamber since it can't be flushed out. You can check to see what sort of accumulation has already taken place by removing the 2 or 4 screw that hold the filter cover on in the back of the dishwasher, then unscrew the piston/check valve from the chamber and see what kind of gookus is in there. The most likely reason for someone to have blocked that off like that is the failure of the piston/check valve, the seal gets bad then the dishwasher won't drain correctly.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 15th, 2006 12:54 pm
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je
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The above is a model number

The serial number is ZM637717A

 

Will I also need the Piston Assembly for Check Valve in the linked part above? I can get that locally. The Repair Clinic store in the link will not ship to Canada for customs and tax reasons. I don't understand this at all - Ive bought probably dozens of things by internet from the US, nobody gave me any hassle.:huh:

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 Posted: Thu Mar 16th, 2006 12:39 pm
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Sorry, I got busy today and spaced out getting that info for you. I wrote me a note so that I will remember to get the info for you tommorrow.

When you purchase the soil chamber, I don't think it comes with the piston/valve, it is a seperate part.

Also I don't think the soil chamber that Samurai linked you to is the correct one for your machine, if I remember correctly there are two different ones. The one Samurai linked you to has 3 inlet/outlet ports, (I think it is for the newer machines that have the auxillary electric drain pump). Doesn't yours just have the two on the same side?



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 Posted: Thu Mar 16th, 2006 01:21 pm
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Just saw another post for a G.E. dishwasher and looked it up, it uses the parts you need.

Here's the model# I used: GSD3320C05BB

Here's a picture that shows the parts CLICK HERE

You most likely will need to purchase a new chamber, it looks like the check valve part on the outlet is missing.

Here's all the parts:
WD24X10015 Chamber hose CLICK HERE
WD22X10024 Check Valve Body(Soil Chamber) CLICK HERE
WD8X219 Chamber gasket CLICK HERE
WD24X10018 Piston&nut Assembly CLICK HERE

To remove the chamber body you will have to remove the piston/nut assembly first -- If you just take the 4 screws on the bottom of the chamber out it will not come off the tub.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 4th, 2006 10:04 pm
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je
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Interesting that the valve body and valve together cost... the same that the GASKET costs. Assuming somebody in the USA will ship to a Canadian address.

I can get a rubber gasket at Canadian Tire for about 52 cents. Anything special about the GE gasket?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 5th, 2006 12:11 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Nothing special about the G.E. gasket to make it cost $7.00 just that it has the G.E. brand name on it, (G.E. parts usually 2 to 3 times more then same part under another brand).

If you can find any gasket the same size it should work, infact your old gasket may be able to be reused with no problems.

Besides the point, you say the gasket cost the same as the valve body and valve together, it doesn't. The vavle body is $11.95 and the valve/pistion is an additional $12.30. The gasket is only $6.85.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 2nd, 2006 01:58 am
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je
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Got it! Everything is ready to go...

:party:

.... Except I thought I ordered the 'hose' not the 'gasket'... but I ordered the 'gasket' not the 'hose'. Otherwise I'd be done right now, washing an empty dishwasher sipping a glass of Barolo.

OK, I'll get some appropriate hose from the store tomorrow and clamp it.

The hose bridges the two outlets that point to the right in this picture?

A photo of one correctly installed would help... a Tab A Slot B instruction might suffice...

I wasn't sure of this description:
If I remember correctly, it's just one extra small hose that runs from the pump drain outlet where the current drain hose is attached to one of the bungs on the chamber then the drain hose connects to the other bung on the chamber.
Thanks, appliance samurais, ninjitsu, judoka, karatekas, bushi...



Last edited on Fri Jun 2nd, 2006 03:13 am by je

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 Posted: Fri Jun 2nd, 2006 12:10 pm
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Very simple, hose goes from pump outlet stub to small stub on chamber. Then drain hose attaches to checkvalve stub of chamber and goes to drain/airgap/disposal.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 2nd, 2006 09:50 pm
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je
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OK... is this right? Before my laminate floor gets flooded again...


Attachment: dishwasherhookup.jpg (Downloaded 8 times)

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 Posted: Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 11:13 am
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Looks good to me!!!!!!



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 Posted: Sun Feb 7th, 2010 08:08 pm
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je
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Maybe 3 and a half years out of this is good service, but it almost never gets used, since there are only 2 of us and its so much faster just to wash everything by hand.

Today I went to use this GE dishwasher after a few months of not being used. It worked pretty well the last time. It opens to bring in water, then stops, and that's the end. Motor doesn't come on.

When it went on, there was a little funny buzzing noise that wasn't there before (I heard my dryer do this when it stopped working too). It looks that the pump isn't working. Could this be it? Where could I look first?

Now... try this first, I guess? :)

http://fixitnow.com/2004/02/mailbag-ge-dishwasher-only-hums-wont.htm

Last edited on Sun Feb 7th, 2010 08:16 pm by je

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 Posted: Sun Feb 7th, 2010 08:39 pm
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if you dont use it often then the motor is probably stuck. remove the kick plate and turn the fins of the motor...you will probably feel it break free...crank it up and give her a whirl.

Last edited on Sun Feb 7th, 2010 08:40 pm by appl.tech.29501



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