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Sensato
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Posted: Wed Mar 8th, 2006 23:05 |
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Great website!!
My light behind the clock gradually went dark about a year ago. Then cleaning the oven before preparing a huge dinner for 24 people for Christmas my oven started beeping.  As I had no light I couldn't read any fault codes. I pushed a bunch of buttons to get it to stop beeping and ended up running down stairs to cut the power to the oven.
The top electric burners work but the oven never did come back up. The beeping stopped but the cooling fan is on constantly. I have to run down and flip the breaker every time I want to use the cooktop.
Would you guess it is the ERC, or the sensor. And is the ERC the clock part?
Thanks.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 00:07 |
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| Dimming display is bad clock. Fan on all the time could be from a few things. Since it happened after clean, chances are you have a bad sensor. The sensor is the probe in your oven that senses the temp. At room temp is should be approximately 1050-1100 ohms of resistance. If your lucky you can pull it through the oven and check it. If not, you will have to pull your back panel off the unit and access it and its connector that way.
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Sensato
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 02:53 |
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I checked the ohms on the temp. sensor. It reads about 1400 ohms. So that means the sensor is working, right? Anything else I should check? Would you now guess it was the ERC?
Thanks again!
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 04:00 |
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| The clock is just a slave to the relay board in the back. The clock is almost 100% of the dimming failures, but practically never the cause of any other F codes, The reading of 1400 at room temp is out of spec. IF you short across the two wires that connect to the sensor does the fan turn off? There is minimal voltage in that circuit, a pair of needle nose will do the trick. It will result in a code if held on too long, but I really just want to know if the cooling fan turns off.
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Sensato
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 04:32 |
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 Yep, a short on the wire going to the sensor will momentarily stop the fan. It starts right back up again.
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 05:00 |
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| The fact that it did stop momentarily indicates the board on the back is recognizing a shorted circuit momentarily. I think you have a bad sensor for the lack of baking and the cooling fan issue and I know your clock is the reason for the lack of display. I feel very uncomfortable having you replace anything without being 100% sure. A sensor will cost you about $35. We know your clock is bad, are you looking to just get this thing baking and live with it this way? Reason I ask is that if you have a 1100 ohm resistor(radio shack for .80 cents), you can use that to jump across the bare wires of the connection you touched with your needle-nose. It the fan stays off, your sensor is bad, period. The 1100 ohm resistor (+ or - 10%)will act like the sensor, it should allow the fan to shut off and to initiate a heat cycle. IT WILL NOT CONTROL THE TEMP AND CAN NOT BE USED THIS WAY, as soon as you verify it will heat, turn it off. This will allow you to test the circuit to insure it is the sensor circuit and the unit is still capable of heating.
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Sensato
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 05:31 |
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| Next trip to town I will make a stop at radio shack and try this. Sure appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge with us! Thanks.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Thu Mar 9th, 2006 14:36 |
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Great information on the temperature control circuitry in these ranges, TTH. Domo! 
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Sensato
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Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 02:48 |
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| Another question ... the local radio shack has 1000 ohm or 1200 ohm resistors. Would either of these work or should I wait to get to a larger town and get the 1100 ohm resistor?
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Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 02:56 |
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| Either will work fine, that's why I put the + or - 10% part. Go for the 1200.
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Sensato
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Posted: Fri Mar 10th, 2006 03:06 |
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 Oop! I knew that you wrote that too. Don't know where my mind is today!
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tpixley
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Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 02:28 |
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I have an identical jenn air with a very dim display which after reading this thread I now expect to be a bad "clock". I'm pretty handy and good with electronics-I;ve fixed several things on this range already. How hard is it to replace a bad clock. I did a quick looky loo at Repair Clinic and didn't see a "clock" listed as a part. Is it part of a larger electronic component, like the touchpad assembly?
Tpixley
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 03:40 |
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Replacing the clock is plug n' chug. Just be careful about static electricity, ground yourself before handling the clock, handle it only by the edges, and, of course, unplug the range before disassembly. Parts link:
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=695128
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tpixley
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Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 03:51 |
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Thanks for the help on locating the part!! Looks to be a pretty straight bolt off-bolt on (plug n chug) gig that I will tackle myself.
Thanks again.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 04:07 |
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| Nolo problemo, m'main man!
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Sensato
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Posted: Thu Mar 23rd, 2006 17:52 |
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O.K. The resistor worked. Which told me that the sensor was bad. I place an order for the sensor at RepairClinic.com. I'll order a new clock part at a later date. Thanks for all the help! 
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Posted: Thu Mar 23rd, 2006 18:38 |
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| Your welcome, expect an invite to the next big bash that started this whole thing!!
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helpmeplease
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Posted: Fri Jul 21st, 2006 06:02 |
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Hi, I too have a Jenn Air SVE47500W. Recently my fan stopped working.  When I would press FAN on the control panel nothing would happen. Now I notice my clock light is dimming. I've not received any fault codes. Any ideas of what could be causing the problem? Originially I thought it might have be just something to do with the FAN control but now I am not sure. Thanks in advance !!!!
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helpmeplease
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Posted: Fri Jul 21st, 2006 06:05 |
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Ooops !!! Forgot to mention that the fan I'm talking about in my previous post is the exhaust fan (the main down draft fan) and not the one in the oven.
Thanks
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Fri Jul 21st, 2006 17:17 |
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The clock light dimming is a bad ERC, slam dunk: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=695128
The inop fan may or may not be related, would need to see if the fan is getting voltage or not and work back from there.
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