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Mahnie
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Wed Mar 15th, 2006 |
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Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2006 21:50 |
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| It will indeed cost you to the tune of almost $400 to replace both support systems. That was the $95 to come out, $179 each installed minus the labor for the second which they nicely let us off! Ridiculous to pay half the cost of a new ordinary dishwasher when the units are less than 3 years old. We were told that it will not happen again given the new metal (not plastic) supports. Great but what next?
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AccApp
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Jun 3rd, 2006 |
| Location: | Eatontown, New Jersey USA |
| Posts: | 1594 |
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Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2006 04:57 |
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| Aww, crizzle! Looks like I need to double all my prices again. Yer man's got a lovely markup going on that link support kit.
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asteysn2
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2006 08:13 |
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$400 to replace 2 link supports is an outrageous price to pay.
Yes, its possible to run a repair bill up to that point, but it would have to entail replacing all four lid motors, both link supports and the mains filter board. And THEN you'd better be sure that your customer is wealthy enough to not care what you charge cause you would STILL make one HEALTHY profit!
As many here already know, being an authorized servicer in this area (San Diego North County Coastal),I see a good many Fisher & Paykel this and that, and I have yet to have charged anything more that $350 to replace all those said parts. Anybody that charges $400 for just two link supports is plain sticking it to you over and above the kind of reaming G.E. gives its customers.
Ok, Ok, once I did charge about $600 to repair a 603 that caught fire, but then there were a LOT of parts to change and the time alone was 3 hours, but thats the exception here...
By far, the link supports and Lid Motors are the culprit in all F1 error situations by a country mile, with an erronious Mains Filter Board causing about 5% of the angst. A leaking fill or drain line in a 603 unit is almost unheard of.
As far as the boards being flaky, I disagree, Fisher Paykel makes quite reliable boards in my estimation. I seldem need to change them.
Robert Sankie
Coastal Appliance, Heating & A/C
http://www.coastalappliances.com
____________________
Robert Sankie
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: http://www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com
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Mahnie
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Wed Mar 15th, 2006 |
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Posted: Sat Nov 25th, 2006 14:27 |
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Robert
Thanks for your contribution to this discussion. Unfortunately there is only one FP service agent in our big metropolitan area (FP gave us two names and one said they did not do it anymore) and it was the day before Thanksgiving so when they could come that day we were pleased. We normally would try and troubleshoot problems with appliances ourselves but regretfully didn't in this case - thought it would be too complicated and that a leak situation might be tricky to diagnose. Also because of the big noise the machine alarm made we had to turn off the power supply and that took out another nearby electric point we used a lot. I am not sure that complaining to the company who serviced it would do much at this stage. We were obligated to pay the $95 come out fee anyway. Seeing what it took to install the support retrofit (10 mins each at most once the drawers were on the floor) we could have done it if we had been able to see that that was the problem and could have bought the parts! Definitely feel sick about it but in future we will not rush to get repairs done - just come to this forum and be grateful for the donated time and advice from people like you.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2006 15:30 |
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Mahnie, if you like, you can post a photocopy of the repair bill so that other folks can know which company NOT to call. Or, if you prefer, you can fax it to me and I'll post it, 775-416-4449.
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Mahnie
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2006 15:40 |
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| Actually I am just about to call FP to find out what this kit costs so I can see what proportion of the $179 for each kit installed was actual product cost. I'll get back to you then. We live in the DC area and there is only one service company at the moment. They were prompt, knew their stuff but I think they know it is a high income area and this is a high end machine so charge accordingly. Once I have my facts in place I will complain to FP if I think it appropriate. It sure puts you off buying one of these again. Thanks for your interest.
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Mahnie
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2006 18:27 |
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| I called the service company and got a refund based on our dispute of the time. They said it took 1 3/4 hrs when in fact 3/4 hrs was about it. In the end we paid for 1 1/2 hours. That brings the bill to approx $300 - $95 for the diagnosis, then $200 for the installation (plus tax) for for 2 ($8.41 each including shipping) parts. FP needs more competition in our area.
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dish drawer in Kentucky
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Wed Jun 8th, 2005 |
| Location: | Lexington, Kentucky USA |
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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2006 17:37 |
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I didn't have the heart  to tell you that I just performed the same repair/upgrade to my 3 y/o machine myself with parts I ordered from Sears. Total time about 20 minutes. Parts about same as yours. I'm NOT a serviceperson. I have a pretty good mechanical appitude and have adjusted and repaired several "out of tolerance"  issues, but that's it.
If I could get my hands on a service manual and complete parts list (most parts are listed on Sears--search at the parts place for DD603) I doubt I'd have to call repair execept for the most critical problems. Oh...and, that elusive fault code and service mode list (must be in service manual)...if I had THAT!! 
Steve
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2006 19:05 |
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dish drawer in Kentucky wrote:
I didn't have the heart to tell you that I just performed the same repair/upgrade to my 3 y/o machine myself with parts I ordered from Sears.
Sears is selling F-P parts now? Last information I had was that only F-P sells F-P parts. Do tell.
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Mahnie
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2006 20:24 |
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| I tried putting in DD 603 in the Sears Parts search and did not get anything. I also tried with Fisher Paykel in front and still zero so I also would be curious as to how dishdrawer in Kentucky managed it. Although as FP sells the parts I don't think it is a problem and they were very prompt on the one occasion we used them.
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asteysn2
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2006 04:49 |
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Yes, Sadly it is true. Sears has a contract with F & P to service thier stuff in areas where no authorized service center (or tech) exists. I have heard first hand about these techs, and the general report is that the untrained (and F/P does not offer them ANY training)techs often do more DAMAGE to the equipment. I have had to personally undo the damage to a 603 caused by an A/E tech that had no idea of what he was doing. That guy caused about $600 worth of damage and its a lucky thing he didnt cause a fire in th kitchen.
Many of my customers have told me that thier experience with A/E was a bad one to put it mildly.
Robert Sankie
Coastal Appliance, Heating & A/C
http://www.coastalappliances.com
____________________
Robert Sankie
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: http://www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2006 17:48 |
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asteysn2 wrote:
Many of my customers have told me that thier experience with A/E was a bad one to put it mildly.
If you Google "A&E factory service" you'll pull up this page as the top result: http://fixitnow.com/2004/04/appliance-jive-turkey-award-searsae.htm
It's one of the most heavily eyeballed pages at my site.
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dish drawer in Kentucky
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Wed Jun 8th, 2005 |
| Location: | Lexington, Kentucky USA |
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Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 00:44 |
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Mahnie wrote: I tried putting in DD 603 in the Sears Parts search and did not get anything. I also tried with Fisher Paykel in front and still zero so I also would be curious as to how dishdrawer in Kentucky managed it. Although as FP sells the parts I don't think it is a problem and they were very prompt on the one occasion we used them.
I managed it just the same way you did. Don't ask me why, but some days it works and some days it doesn't. (I was also told that on this forum). Weekends seem to be a complete washout...no info at all. Worked best during the early to mid week. When it did, I printed the diagrams and parts list. I ordered the parts that others on this forum told me to order and, yes, followed the INCLUDED instructions that came with the parts. The FP logo was all over the parts bags. I don't think they were counterfeit, coming from Sears.
I repeat, I am not nor never have been an appliance serviceperson, thus not affiliated with any company or organization, and have never been trained by anyone nor taken directions from anyone over the phone or mail. I've been a Medical Technologist all my work life. Preventative maintenance was part of that job, and on instruments that were more complicated than a dish-drawer. The only information I know about FP is what I have gleaned from this forum. And, I don't know why I am listed as an "apprentice appliantologist." Please don't let that mislead you.
I am not advocating that anyone attempt to buy these parts, make any attempts to repair anything yourself, or cheat an appliance serviceman out of his due. I simply told you what I did.
Steve
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Phil49
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Tue Feb 27th, 2007 |
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Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2007 20:04 |
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I followed the instructions & installed the two new metal retro fit links for my DD603.
No where in the instructions did it mention anything about removing the plastic clamp support closest to the hoses, it only mentioned to remove the center clamp first, & then install the bracket with the rod, & then replace the clamp next to the tub.
I left the existing clamp closest to the wall, where the hoses come in.
I then used a pair of dikes to cut off the existing plastic support rod.
Is this OK, or do I still have to remove the last clamp?
I don't have any leaks even with this original clamp attached.
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Kiwi-nadian
Sublime Master of Appliantology
| Joined: | Tue May 24th, 2005 |
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Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2007 20:08 |
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| I remove it, but I dont think it is a big deal. I know some guys that leave it on. It is not on in the picture with the instructions.
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Phil49
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2007 20:13 |
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OK, Thanks for the info.
I will keep an eye on it, if it gets tough to close the drawer all the way.
For now, it seems OK.
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HoganB
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Tue Jul 31st, 2007 |
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Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2007 14:28 |
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For those of you that are a little shy of removing the drawer and reassembling it. Try this trick. It worked great for me.
Remove power from the unit.
Pull the bottom drawer our as far as it will go.
Reach under into the base with a couple of small towels and dry as much water as you can.
Use a blow dryer on medium heat and set it under the base so that the warm air circulates inside the cabinet.
After a bout 45 minutes, push the drawer back in, apply power and give it a go.
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asteysn2
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2007 15:44 |
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Yes mopping up the water and drying things out WILL get you back up and running, but its a good guess as to how long it will stay up. (allrite you guys....) The symptom has been alleviated but the cause still remains. Gotta find out why it went F1 in the first place or you will be drying things out with that hair dryer soon enough.
Robert Sankie
Coastal Appliance, Heating & A/C
Serving San Diego North County
http://www.coastalappliances.com
____________________
Robert Sankie
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: http://www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com
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dnonnema
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Wed Dec 26th, 2007 |
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Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 18:52 |
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I have recently had the F1 error problem, and I believe it was caused by a broken link support cable.
FP Customer Support was nice enough to send me two new hose supports (part # 525 477F) gratis.
I have the new supports in hand, but have no idea how to install them. Does anyone have a schematic or diagram of where these new hose supports should be attached to the drawer?
Also, I see several posts mentioning a kit with instructions, and that the new support was metal, not plastic like the original equipment. FP sent me the above mentioned part, but it is plastic (u-shaped).
Last edited on Wed Dec 26th, 2007 19:42 by dnonnema
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Kiwi-nadian
Sublime Master of Appliantology
| Joined: | Tue May 24th, 2005 |
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Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 19:34 |
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The part # for the 603 link kit is 528437. There is an instruction guide supplied in the package with the parts.
Is your unit a DD603 or a 602?
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