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Roper RGE33300 range problem  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 07:35 pm
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calgaryguy
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House I bought a year ago came with an el-cheapo Roper range. While cleaning the oven the other day, I lifted the bottom oven element slightly to get my hand underneath it to wipe up oven cleaner and a buzzing/crackling noise started to eminate from the unit. I immediately placed the element back in its original spot, did a sniff test for 'magic smoke' (there was none) shrugged my shoulders and finished wiping up the inside of the oven.

Once I was all done, I turned on the oven to see if it would heat up as I was concerned I had shorted something. No surprise, the oven wont heat up.

Circuit breaker did not trip, range elements heat up fine, digital clock works, light bulb inside oven works, but no heat from top or bottom oven element.

Thoughts? Suggestions where to start? I unfortunately cannot read a wiring diagram for squat, but I know the basics around my digital multimeter (car guy). I did find the wiring diagram rolled up inside the back panel on the range, but its pretty much greek to me.

Also, does anyone know where I can download a roper manual? Roper seems to only supply them in paper format (how f-ing stupid is that in this day and age).

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 Posted: Sat Feb 25th, 2006 11:13 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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When you moved the element, you shorted something. Kill power, pull the range out and remove the back panel. You'll see a burnt wire dangling there. Take a picture and post it here.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 12:12 am
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calgaryguy
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
When you moved the element, you shorted something. Kill power, pull the range out and remove the back panel. You'll see a burnt wire dangling there. Take a picture and post it here.

I've pulled the back cover and can find no burnt wires anywhere. I have confirmed I have 240V at the plug and at the power distribution block (I dont know what else to call it.

The black wire that feeds the oven temperature control dial goes directly from the power distribution block to the control dial. The red wire that feeds the oven temperature control dial goes through a sensor of some sort that is flush mounted to the side of the oven wall (accessible only by removing side panel). This sensor is a round cylinder about 3/4" dia, 1" tall and has two red leads on it, one lead is connected to the power distribution block and one is connected to the oven temperature control dial.

So again, I have 240V at the power distribution block, but when I check for power across the black and red wires at the oven temperature control dial, I get squat. Anyone know what the sensor is I describe above, and if it was toast, would it prevent 240V from reaching the oven temperature control dial?

Cheers,

Chris

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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 01:07 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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At this point, I would kill power to the range and then ohm out the bake element to make sure it's not the problem before i proceeded any further.

Then, I'd isolate the power supply to the bake element into two circuits, L1 and L2, by disconnecting at least one wire from the bake element-- which I believe is already done by default in this case. Then I'd apply power to the range and set the oven to bake. By measuring each side of the bake element power supply, I would isolate the offending circuit and then proceed to deal harshly with its insolence.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 06:45 am
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calgaryguy
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
At this point, I would kill power to the range and then ohm out the bake element to make sure it's not the problem before i proceeded any further.

Then, I'd isolate the power supply to the bake element into two circuits, L1 and L2, by disconnecting at least one wire from the bake element-- which I believe is already done by default in this case. Then I'd apply power to the range and set the oven to bake. By measuring each side of the bake element power supply, I would isolate the offending circuit and then proceed to deal harshly with its insolence.


Both elements show basic continuity via a ohm test. How much resistance they should have is unknown, but I assume that as long as they have resistance they should be cool.

I have no clear idea as to what you are suggesting to do in the second paragraph. Its likely time to call in a pro.

Process of elimination is telling me its either the oven temperature control dial or the gadget I descibed in my last post; I'm assuming its some sort of temperature sensor that cuts power to the oven when temps go above a certain level.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 01:15 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I was describing a live test where you're tracking down voltage in the circuit with power applied. If you're not up for that, then it's time to spend money some bucks and, if you're lucky, get someone who knows what they're doing.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 26th, 2006 08:02 pm
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Pegi
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I tried to bring up your range to see what that part was, however that model number does not come up...it does sound like that part you are describing is a fuse, I would take the two wires that attach to this and tape them together, re-set power to the unit then see if the elements come on....only as a test.....if the oven then does come on you know to replace this fuse.....if it is still dead then could be the thermostat or selector switch...



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 Posted: Mon Feb 27th, 2006 10:19 pm
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calgaryguy
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Pegi wrote:
I tried to bring up your range to see what that part was, however that model number does not come up...it does sound like that part you are describing is a fuse, I would take the two wires that attach to this and tape them together, re-set power to the unit then see if the elements come on....only as a test.....if the oven then does come on you know to replace this fuse.....if it is still dead then could be the thermostat or selector switch...

OK, so the gadget I descibed above as being inline on the red power lead appears to be the oven thermostat or temperature safety cutoff switch.

I removed the 'gadget', put the red leads together with a electrical marette and turned the oven on. VOILA! Heat. Now to figure out what this part is called and where to source it (locally i hope).

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 Posted: Mon Feb 27th, 2006 10:37 pm
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Pegi
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Is there a part number on the fuse?  Can you verify the model number of the range?



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 Posted: Mon Feb 27th, 2006 10:42 pm
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calgaryguy
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Pegi wrote:
Is there a part number on the fuse? Can you verify the model number of the range?

I am in Canada, and I've noticed that model numbers are sometimes bollocksed between here and the USA.

Model is RGE33300.

According to my local parts guys (Reliable Parts) the gadget is a thermostat cut-off. They have twio in stock and I am just heading out with the old one in hand to see if what they have is what I need.

Part #'s on the gadget are;

49T21
206702
L445F
C0003

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 Posted: Mon Feb 27th, 2006 10:44 pm
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Pegi
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Cool, that is why we cannot access the model number here, let us know how this turns out....;)



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 Posted: Tue Feb 28th, 2006 12:19 am
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calgaryguy
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Pegi wrote:
Cool, that is why we cannot access the model number here, let us know how this turns out....;)

DONE and DONE!

So the part that was toast was the 'thermo cut off' switch/sensor. 40 bucks canajun dollars, 15 mins to replace and voila. I have it running through some hot-cold syscles right now to ensure everything is hunky dory.

Thanks for all the help guys. I was pretty much in uncharted territory using my multimeter for non-car related testing. Your suggestions got me thinking about how to go about diagnosing and repairing something I hadn't touched before.

Cheers!

Chris

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