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GE Chest Freezer, Model FCM7DNAWH  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 09:03 pm
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OE812
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I have a GE 7 CuFt. chest freezer.  It stopped freezing recently.  The compressor does not appear to be operating.  What should I troubleshoot? Run Capacitor? PTC Relay? T-stat? 

 

Thanks to the almighty Appliance Guru.  Make it three in a row...

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 Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2005 11:00 pm
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GLC



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You gotta be a bit more specific (for me any way) :)

Is the compressor running but the unit is not freezing?  Or is the compressor not even running at all?  Or do you click on then right off?

If it is not coming on at all try the cold control.  Test it to make sure that it is not bad.  Also if it is not running at all check the relay or at the relay for a burnt or broken wire.

If it is running but not freezing then there is a problem with the sealed system (includes the compressor).

My experience on these units is to purchase another one if it needs sealed system work.

 

Last edited on Sat Nov 5th, 2005 11:01 pm by GLC



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 Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2005 01:36 am
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OE812
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The compressor is not running.  How do I check the cold control? Do I connect the two wire leads together to see if the compressor will run?

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

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 Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2005 02:12 am
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GLC



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that will work. Just tape them up real good and make sure that they will not touch any thing at all.

Last edited on Sun Nov 6th, 2005 02:12 am by GLC



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 Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2005 02:22 am
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OE812
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I tried that but the compressor still does not operate.  Is it a chunker?

 

Jeff

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 Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2005 02:50 am
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OE812
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It was a sealed system leak.  It's a chunker.

 

THanks,

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 Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2005 02:50 am
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GLC



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is the compressor warm to the touch?  Is it too hot to even touch?  Or is it cold, room temp? 
If you have a meter set it to volts and see if you are getting 120 volts to the compressor.  If you are and it is not running then your's is probably shot or the relay is the culprit.  If you are not getting voltage to the compressor start working your way back-wards with your meter to see where  you are loosing it.  With this model I believe the only other control is that cold control you just by-passed.  Another test to do is to set your meter on OHM or continuity test.  You want to see if any of the internal windings have grounded to the inside of the compressor.  Touch one probe to one post of the compressor and the other probe to the outside of the compressor.  Get into the metal through the paint. It should read open, no reading, no continuity.  Do that on all three posts on the compressor.  I keep a solid state relay on my truck as a very fast and easy test to eliminate the old relay to see if the old one is the culprit. If it gets the unit running and the amp draw remains below 5 I leave it on the compressor and they are working. If it does not get it running I take it off and with me and reuse it.  That part number is from a co. called SUPCO and it is RCO410. This one has a capacitor as part of the unit also.  Works well on older units to give that boost to the compressor to start up.   



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Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off.
CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS
Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com
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