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GE Triton XL tripped breaker  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 11:15 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If something's not on the wiring diagram, then two possibilities exist:

1. it's the wrong wiring diagram

2. it doesn't belong there

Has this dishwasher ever been worked on before?

Disconnect the undocumented diode and try running the dishwasher that way.

Good catch in finding that mystery component, by the way. :cool:



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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 11:33 pm
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elevatorman
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
If something's not on the wiring diagram, then two possibilities exist:

1. it's the wrong wiring diagram

2. it doesn't belong there

Has this dishwasher ever been worked on before?

Disconnect the undocumented diode and try running the dishwasher that way.

Good catch in finding that mystery component, by the way. :cool:



Mr. Samurai, thanks for taking your time out for me. Should I contact GE to verify the prints fit this unit?

The wiring worksmanship of the diode appears factory.

The dishwasher came new w/ the new house about 3 yrs ago. Only other issue was the day after move in the dishwasher wasn't getting any water. GE tech came out (I wasn't home) and said it wasn't getting water from the house supply. He was right, the plumbers waterline from sink was too short and kinked, I helped the plumber put the longer line on.

It should run normal w/out the "mystery component", I just wonder how I'll get an answer from GE. I was going to try to replace the mystery component, good luck huh? I need to get a new flood switch asm because the float Mr. Budget was referring to isn't compressing the microsw. I bought. Unless a spring pushes the egg shape cap down on the float actuator, mine won't compress w/ the weight only.

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 11:53 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 12:53 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The float microswitches on GE dishwashers have an extra light spring action-- you have to use a factory original part for this.

Without question, you need to verify that you have the correct wiring diagram.

I really don't see any reason for the diode to be there... assuming water inlet valve operates on 120vac, not some DC voltage. You can easily verify this with your meter without having to hook up the valve or float switch, just as you have it in your first photo.

Once you verify that the valve is using 120vac, the next step would be to remove the diode run the dishwasher. My money says it will work just fine.

By the way, this dishwasher is another example of dumbass appliance manufacturers using electronic controls on a wet appliance-- always a bad idea and I've never seen it work reliably.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:53 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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I looked over the wiring diagram, either I'm blind or your correct -- it's not noted on the diagram anywhere.

I expected to find a wiring harness/loom for this part only, somewhere on the parts breakdown/list but no wiring parts listed there either, Hmmmm......

I don't really know electronic theroy but whould venture to guess that is something to do with suppressing noise or electric feed back into electronic control when valve is open/closed.

Last edited on Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:54 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 01:54 pm
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edwardh1
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seems a bad case of exposed hot electrical parts too.

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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:10 pm
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elevatorman
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I had my electronics supply place run the numbers on the "mystery component". It's a 220VAC transient surpressor= A really fast zener diode that shunts out spikes. He and I discussed the circuit and he felt I should put another of those back in the circuit w/ a MOV= to zeners back to back, in parallel w/ the surpressor. He said the surpressor is REALLY fast and the MOV is slower which will cover all bases. Thanks so much Samurai, Budget and all of you other people that helped me with my problem.

Last edited on Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:12 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 09:17 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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elevatorman wrote: I had my electronics supply place run the numbers on the "mystery component". It's a 220VAC transient surpressor= A really fast zener diode that shunts out spikes. He and I discussed the circuit and he felt I should put another of those back in the circuit w/ a MOV= to zeners back to back, in parallel w/ the surpressor. He said the surpressor is REALLY fast and the MOV is slower which will cover all bases. Thanks so much Samurai, Budget and all of you other people that helped me with my problem.
Hey, that's great information-- thanks for the followup!  :dude:



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 Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 10:26 pm
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elevatorman
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You're so welcome.:cool:

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 Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 11:08 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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edwardh1 wrote:
seems a bad case of exposed hot electrical parts too.

Edward, Those bare electrical connections were all covered by heat shrink tubing before the "Grasshopper" started working on the unit. The heat shrink had to be removed, of coarse, to find the problem.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2005 12:19 am
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elevatorman
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Well now that I have the bad float switch and the short fixed , I can't get voltage to the water valve. I ran through their diagnostic test and the detergent door is not opening, and the water valve solenoid's not getting voltage. I do however hear the relays pick up on the pcb during the test. I guess I'm going to have to spring for an $85 control module pcb.:(:X

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 Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2005 01:19 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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It's possible something went bad on the control board when the surge suppressor shorted.  Lots of times, it ends up being a burned solder connection on the board.  Pull it out and examine the solder connections carefully-- if you see a burned one, re-solder it.  You may get lucky!



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 Posted: Sat Apr 3rd, 2010 05:55 am
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dcyoung9
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Does anyone know if elevatorman from March 2005 posts ever got his Triton XL fixed and what part he replaced the unknown Zener with?? My mother-in-law appears to have exactly the same problem right down to the burned micro and a 0 ohm (both directions) hidden diode.

Without the Flood Sw both motors seem to run OK just no H2O. Don't see anything smoked on the circuit board.

Applied 110V to the water inlet solonoid and it opens and I am able to blow air through it.

BTW this is a really great forum.
Followed the posts for elevatorman and so far everythin has been exactly as stated up until hes said he needed the $85 circuit control module.
Wiring diagram on this one is missing so I printed the one he posted.

Don Dallas, TX (dcyoung9)

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 Posted: Sat Apr 3rd, 2010 02:17 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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I don't know yet what a replacement value would be, but here's some info.





 

also: Service Bulletin GE TRITON XL DISHWASHERS

GSD6000 SERIES
PDW7000 SERIES
EDW4000 SERIES




Transorb kit

*Shorted Transorb will likely damage the main electronic control board.
click on picture



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