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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 02:15 |
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If something's not on the wiring diagram, then two possibilities exist:
1. it's the wrong wiring diagram
2. it doesn't belong there
Has this dishwasher ever been worked on before?
Disconnect the undocumented diode and try running the dishwasher that way.
Good catch in finding that mystery component, by the way. 
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elevatorman
Grasshopper
| Joined: | Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 |
| Location: | Georgia USA |
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Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 02:33 |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
If something's not on the wiring diagram, then two possibilities exist:
1. it's the wrong wiring diagram
2. it doesn't belong there
Has this dishwasher ever been worked on before?
Disconnect the undocumented diode and try running the dishwasher that way.
Good catch in finding that mystery component, by the way.
Mr. Samurai, thanks for taking your time out for me. Should I contact GE to verify the prints fit this unit?
The wiring worksmanship of the diode appears factory.
The dishwasher came new w/ the new house about 3 yrs ago. Only other issue was the day after move in the dishwasher wasn't getting any water. GE tech came out (I wasn't home) and said it wasn't getting water from the house supply. He was right, the plumbers waterline from sink was too short and kinked, I helped the plumber put the longer line on.
It should run normal w/out the "mystery component", I just wonder how I'll get an answer from GE. I was going to try to replace the mystery component, good luck huh? I need to get a new flood switch asm because the float Mr. Budget was referring to isn't compressing the microsw. I bought. Unless a spring pushes the egg shape cap down on the float actuator, mine won't compress w/ the weight only.Last edited on Mon Apr 25th, 2005 02:53 by elevatorman
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 03:53 |
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The float microswitches on GE dishwashers have an extra light spring action-- you have to use a factory original part for this.
Without question, you need to verify that you have the correct wiring diagram.
I really don't see any reason for the diode to be there... assuming water inlet valve operates on 120vac, not some DC voltage. You can easily verify this with your meter without having to hook up the valve or float switch, just as you have it in your first photo.
Once you verify that the valve is using 120vac, the next step would be to remove the diode run the dishwasher. My money says it will work just fine.
By the way, this dishwasher is another example of dumbass appliance manufacturers using electronic controls on a wet appliance-- always a bad idea and I've never seen it work reliably.
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Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
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Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 12:53 |
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I looked over the wiring diagram, either I'm blind or your correct -- it's not noted on the diagram anywhere.
I expected to find a wiring harness/loom for this part only, somewhere on the parts breakdown/list but no wiring parts listed there either, Hmmmm......
I don't really know electronic theroy but whould venture to guess that is something to do with suppressing noise or electric feed back into electronic control when valve is open/closed.Last edited on Mon Apr 25th, 2005 12:54 by Budget Appliance Repair
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William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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edwardh1
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2005 16:54 |
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| seems a bad case of exposed hot electrical parts too.
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elevatorman
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| Joined: | Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 |
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Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 00:10 |
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| I had my electronics supply place run the numbers on the "mystery component". It's a 220VAC transient surpressor= A really fast zener diode that shunts out spikes. He and I discussed the circuit and he felt I should put another of those back in the circuit w/ a MOV= to zeners back to back, in parallel w/ the surpressor. He said the surpressor is REALLY fast and the MOV is slower which will cover all bases. Thanks so much Samurai, Budget and all of you other people that helped me with my problem. Last edited on Tue Apr 26th, 2005 00:12 by elevatorman
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 00:17 |
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elevatorman wrote: I had my electronics supply place run the numbers on the "mystery component". It's a 220VAC transient surpressor= A really fast zener diode that shunts out spikes. He and I discussed the circuit and he felt I should put another of those back in the circuit w/ a MOV= to zeners back to back, in parallel w/ the surpressor. He said the surpressor is REALLY fast and the MOV is slower which will cover all bases. Thanks so much Samurai, Budget and all of you other people that helped me with my problem.
Hey, that's great information-- thanks for the followup! 
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elevatorman
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Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 01:26 |
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| You're so welcome.
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Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
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Posted: Tue Apr 26th, 2005 14:08 |
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edwardh1 wrote:
seems a bad case of exposed hot electrical parts too.
Edward, Those bare electrical connections were all covered by heat shrink tubing before the "Grasshopper" started working on the unit. The heat shrink had to be removed, of coarse, to find the problem.
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William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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elevatorman
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Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2005 03:19 |
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Well now that I have the bad float switch and the short fixed , I can't get voltage to the water valve. I ran through their diagnostic test and the detergent door is not opening, and the water valve solenoid's not getting voltage. I do however hear the relays pick up on the pcb during the test. I guess I'm going to have to spring for an $85 control module pcb. 
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2005 16:19 |
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| It's possible something went bad on the control board when the surge suppressor shorted. Lots of times, it ends up being a burned solder connection on the board. Pull it out and examine the solder connections carefully-- if you see a burned one, re-solder it. You may get lucky!
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