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GE Triton XL tripped breaker  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:48 pm
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elevatorman
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I have a GE Triton XL model #GSD6600G00BB that kicked the 20amp panel breaker sometime during the cycle. I reset the breaker and the dishwasher came on but it just seemed to be trying to drain. The motor never would come on. I removed power and ohmed out switchs and coils/solenoids. I found the float sw. micro got smoked- the arm and the insides of the sw. were burned. I suspected water got on the sw. and it shorted to ground thus kicking the breaker (I think that because I couldn't find any seal on the float itself). So I replaced the micro which is using the N.O. contact??? and now I get the motor to run but I'm not getting any water. I'm not getting any voltage to the water intlet coil/solenoid. It reads about 1130 ohms disconnected (seems high to me for AC). I removed the front panel (didn't find the tech sheet) and found relays soldered onto the pcb. Help please? How can I work my way back?

Last edited on Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 05:53 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 06:10 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Float switch is NC.  Opens when full, stopping the voltage to the fill valve.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 06:19 pm
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elevatorman
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That's what I would of thought, the harness/plug connector only can go on the micro one way. The micro has three pins and the connector has 3 holes and 2 wires. The wires line up on the N.O. contact. I made sure and doublechecked that. I guess I need to check it again.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 07:27 pm
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elevatorman
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I just double checked, the pins on the micro are offset so the connector goes on one way. The bracket that holds the micro has a notch for the connector to snap on, it can only go one way also. Can anyone help out with some prints??

I also disconnected the float sw. and put a jumper across the 2 wires on the plug connector~ to check if N.C. would put voltage on water intlet and it tripped the breaker again. I'm wondering now if I should just change the water inlet assy to see if that coil/solenoid is the culprit for smoking the float sw. and tripping the breaker.

Last edited on Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 08:32 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 09:00 pm
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elevatorman
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Jedi Appliance Guy
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Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 13:10
Float switch is NC. Opens when full, stopping the voltage to the fill valve.



Thanks for your response earlier Jedi. I know it seems weird but the float sw. on this dishwasher appears to me to be N.O.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 10:07 pm
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elevatorman
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Oh please Mr. Samurai..... Can you chime in??

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 11:03 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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elevatorman wrote: I also disconnected the float sw. and put a jumper across the 2 wires on the plug connector~ to check if N.C. would put voltage on water intlet and it tripped the breaker again. I'm wondering now if I should just change the water inlet assy to see if that coil/solenoid is the culprit for smoking the float sw. and tripping the breaker.

   Sounds to me like your fill solenoid may be shorted.  Why not do the same thing again only this time disconnect the two wires going to the fill solenoid.
   

    Or you could ohm it out if you have a meter.

    The older I get the harder it gets to tell the difference between those little NO and NC markings on those little switches
   

Of course wait for the Samurai's blessing before attempting this.

 

 

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 Posted: Sat Apr 23rd, 2005 11:08 pm
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Hello, my chiming friend.  Although I am not the blessed and all-glorious Samurai, I pray that you would tolerate the ramblings of an old man who wets himself only a little.

It seems to me that the answers to your questions regarding the float switch are right there at your dishwasher.  The wiring diagram is located underneath the dishwasher, look all around, especially on the right hand side on the bottom of the tub.  Use a flashlight or oil-burning lantern for illumination.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:49 am
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elevatorman
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Thanks for the responses. The fill solenoid reads 1130 ohms and I do understand if it's damaged, it could short/fail when voltage is applied. I'll try disconnecting the wires Jedi.

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:50 am by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:16 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Were you able to locate the wiring diagram?



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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:27 am
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elevatorman
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Thanks Samurai but not yet, I'll look in the AM.

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:29 am by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 12:45 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote:
Float switch is NC. Opens when full, stopping the voltage to the fill valve.

No Jedi, Float switch is N.O. but weight of float resting on switch arm closes the N.O. switch so water can fill. When water gets to high and raises float off switch arm switch goes into N.O. state and stops water, (I know you know this, we all get a little confussed as we get older).



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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 02:45 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Oops!  Thank you for your tactful correction Willie.  Yes, even a Jedi Knight is still human.

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:27 pm
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elevatorman
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote:
No Jedi, Float switch is N.O. but weight of float resting on switch arm closes the N.O. switch so water can fill. When water gets to high and raises float off switch arm switch goes into N.O. state and stops water, (I know you know this, we all get a little confussed as we get older).



Thanks, I was pretty sure it had to be N.O. Mr. Budget. But on my new micro sw. I installed the float doesn't compress the it to the N.C. state, is this not going to work? I couldn't find the exact brand micro but I thought this one would work. I put a meter on it and I have to push down on the float to make the contact. Do you think I should of just ordered a replacement float sw. assy??

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 03:39 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 05:16 pm
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elevatorman
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
wrote:

Were you able to locate the wiring diagram?


I removed the front panel and searched behind the soundproofing and such. I couldn't find the prints.








Jedi Appliance Guy
wrote:



Sounds to me like your fill solenoid may be shorted. Why not do the same thing again only this time disconnect the two wires going to the fill solenoid.


Or you could ohm it out if you have a meter.




I jumped the float wires w/ it and the fill solenoid disconnected and the breaker still kicked. I was suspiscious about the fill solenoid because it has read 1120, 1135, and now it reads 1105 ohms- that's disconnected w/ a Fluke meter. It's looking more and more like I'm going to have to call a repairman, I've found it very difficult to troubleshoot w/out prints. Unless someone knows how I can access some prints, I'm going to have to stick to fixing elevators.

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 05:38 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 05:55 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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To find the tech sheet.

    Take out the 4 1/4 inch screws that hold the two parts of the service panel in place.  Lay down on the floor on your left side and look under the dishwasher.  You'll notice there is a piece of sheet metal lining the underside of the tub.

    The tech sheet is tucked between the tub and the sheet metal on the right side of the machine toward the front.  Grab the sheet with your left hand.

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 06:10 pm
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elevatorman
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Jedi Appliance Guy wrote:
To find the tech sheet.

Take out the 4 1/4 inch screws that hold the two parts of the service panel in place. Lay down on the floor on your left side and look under the dishwasher. You'll notice there is a piece of sheet metal lining the underside of the tub.

The tech sheet is tucked between the tub and the sheet metal on the right side of the machine toward the front. Grab the sheet with your left hand.




Thanks Jedi, I've been laying on my right side & stomach the whole time and never noticed them. Here we go!!

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 08:35 pm
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elevatorman
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I've found a short in the water valve solenoid circuit. It's a little confusing but the feed (pink wire- hot feed from the PCB) goes to one side of the float sw.= then a yellow leaves the float and goes to one side of the solenoid (which has another yellow that goes some heat shrink that I cut off(that insulates a connection of what looks like a diode w/out a band marking the cathode and some numbers that make you think it's a resistor= THIS IS SHORTED both directions) then turns into the white red which is the neutral. The other side of the water valve is 2 white reds. So you have nuetral on both sides w/ this component shorted. I'm going to try to attatch a pic. Note the diode looking object coming from the yellow wire side of the water valve- the wire changes to a white red=neutral wire [which is the same as the other side of the water valve which equals a direct short. Is this for the field to collapse around the coil and save contacts? or supress spikes to board?

BTW- This shorted component is NOT on the prints!

It's time for the wise ones to step in!! Oh Samurai, Jedi... What is this mysterious component?

Attachment: DSC01840.JPG (Downloaded 39 times)

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 09:14 pm by elevatorman

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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 09:31 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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elevatorman wrote:
BTW- This shorted component is NOT on the prints!

I'll make that determination-- post the wiring diagram.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 24th, 2005 09:46 pm
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elevatorman
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote:
elevatorman wrote:
BTW- This shorted component is NOT on the prints!

I'll make that determination-- post the wiring diagram.



Attachment: DSC01843.JPG (Downloaded 69 times)

Last edited on Sun Apr 24th, 2005 09:50 pm by elevatorman

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