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oven and broiler not working  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 04:29 pm
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BSexton
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I have a Magic Chef oven that the oven and broiler suddenly stopped working. Neither ignitor will light. I have tried unplugging the stove and plugging it back in after several minutes. I  replaced the oven ignitor about 2 months ago and has been working fine until now. All other electrical components work, light, clock, timer, etc. The stove burners also work.  I see no fuses listed on the wiring diagram and took the stove apart and can find no fuses. I took voltage readings and got 2.1 volts to the oven ignitor and 4.3 volts to the broiler ignitor. I was wondering if you thought that the problem was one of the PC boards. There is one for the controls in the front of the stove and one in the bottom by the gas valve. I can find no one to test these boards and due to their cost don't want to buy one to find out it was the other one. Is their any way to figure out if it was one of these boards?Thanks, Bill

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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 04:42 pm
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Pegi
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Magic Chef model 6498 V V D

This is not a problem, order them thru this site and what is not needed can be returned, less shipping fees...;)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 05:13 pm
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BSexton
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Do you think the boards are my problem can I be missing something else? Also I didnt think anyone took back electrical parts

Thanks, Bill

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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 06:32 pm
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Pegi
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You are going to need to see where you are losing voltage to the oven, which board, and this is the only place where you can return parts, no questions asked, within I believe 30 days, but not sure about the time.  But check the boards to see which one or if both, have failed. I have not looked to see if there are any fuses in this range yet.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 08:08 pm
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BSexton
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Can you give me any tips on how to check the boards?

Thanks

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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 08:12 pm
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Pegi
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I could not, you will need to find the tech sheet located somewhere  in your range, locate that and should help you, each unit and model is different. 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 08:17 pm
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Pegi
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Here is the wiring diagram for your model, this will help you trace where you are losing voltage to the oven...I see a hi-limit switch in-line to your oven in this diagram.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 11th, 2005 08:24 pm
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Pegi
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You are also going to need the series number to order parts for this oven,. post the series number and the serial number. will be needed..



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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 12:35 am
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BSexton
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The  series number from what I understand is based off the serial number which is 15979795MS  which would be Series 10. Also after reading the website on parts shows that there is no refund on any electrical part that shows evidence of being installed. Also have checked Hi limit switch and it is ok. Any other help would be appreciated.

Bill

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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 02:47 am
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Pegi
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Hummmm, Samurai, want to clarify the return policy here???  I do not know, I just help out on the forum and have seen posted all parts can be returned for any reason, but need to have this clarified looks like if you saw different somewhere.................



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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 04:52 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Well, I'm not RepairClinic, so let's ask them.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 05:15 am
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Pegi
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Copied from Repair Clinic:

Return Any Part
Electrical parts? Special-order parts? No problem. We absolutely guaranty your money back if you decide to return a part within 30 days. And of course we'll refund your shipping and handling charges if we select the wrong part for you.
Click here for more information.






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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 12:27 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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BSexton wrote:
The series number from what I understand is based off the serial number which is 15979795MS which would be Series 10.

How do you figure that this is a series 10, (it's NOT), it is a series 15, the first two digits of serial# is the series#.

But, yes, you would use parts listed for a series 10 if no series of 15 is shown, (You use the closest series# listed in parts break down without going higher than your actual series#).



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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 03:21 pm
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BSexton
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Wiilie I got my info about the series number off a website that said the series numbers for the part I needed were10, 20 or 34. Since 15 is more than 10 you use the smaller series which is 10.Do you have any info on my oven problem?

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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 11:31 pm
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BSexton
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I read about not returning electrical parts from the "Magic Chef Appliance Part" website listed on this website. It states that it is against the law to return electrical parts that have been installed. I am surprised to read that you can return electrical parts that have been installed to the Repairclinic.com website

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 Posted: Wed Oct 12th, 2005 11:42 pm
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Pegi
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I do not have the foggiest about this policy, this is something you would have to call RepairClinic and ask about, we just help out on this board and the Samurai refers people to RepairClinic for parts.  I have not heard it is against the law, however electrical parts cannot be returned usually because it would then be considered a used part if it was installed and could not be re-sold as a new part. PLus no telling what some homeowner might have done to it if it was wired wrong, so that is the normal standard, electrical parts cannot be returned.  You will need to call RepairClinic to see why they can be returned to them...



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 01:07 am
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Moostafa
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BSexton wrote:
I read about not returning electrical parts from the "Magic Chef Appliance Part" website listed on this website. It states that it is against the law to return electrical parts that have been installed. I am surprised to read that you can return electrical parts that have been installed to the Repairclinic.com website
Hello, my returning friend. It sounds to me that a vendor lacking the integrity and graciousness of RepairClinic is hiding behind "The Law" as a an excuse for the miserly return policy.

It seems to me that RepairClinic's policy is straight-forward and plainly stated-- I see no ambiguity in its wording: return any part for any reason within 30 days.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 13th, 2005 12:08 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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BSexton wrote:
Wiilie I got my info about the series number off a website that said the series numbers for the part I needed were10, 20 or 34. Since 15 is more than 10 you use the smaller series which is 10.Do you have any info on my oven problem?


No info on your problem, it's most likely as Pegi says one of boards, (ERC/Clock or Relay Board).

Since bake and broil both quit at the same time then I would suspect a bad ERC, oven sensor or power to relay board, (have you checked the oven sensor to make sure it's around 1100 omhs at room temp).

Check to make sure you are getting 120volts to the relay board at the Line & N terminals, also you might want to remove the relay board and check for any burnt circuit traces on the back of the board.

Also check the door lock circuit, as it gives input to the main control board, (I believe this is only to tell the ERC that the door is locked for self-clean so may have nothing to do with your problem).

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the two cables that run between the ERC and relay board and reinstall them at both ends just in case maybe a bad connection.



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