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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Fridge - Cold Freezer with warm refrigerator

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GE Fridge - Cold Freezer with warm refrigerator  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 06:48 pm
   
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ScottyP
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Hi,

The freezer compartment works great, current temp is about 7 degrees.   The refrigerator compartment is temperature ranges from 40 degrees to about 50 degrees (depending on the amount of items inside), with the control set at maximum setting of 7.  Milk will only keep for a day or two.

I have called Sears Service to schedule an appointment.  They do not an appointment available until the end of this month (this could be a good thing)... So, I was wondering how I could test the fridge to determine whats not working and repair it myself. 

Things I have noticed: 
  1.  I do not detect air circulating in the fridge compartment but I have strong circulation the freezer.
      Where does the air enter this compartment?  (I did find the return vents)
       Does the fridge have separate fans for the freezer and fridge compartments?
       How can I check the damper?
  2.  In the freezer compartment, I found an ice/frost buildup along the edge of the rear panel on the right (fridge) side approximately midway down. 
       How do I locate and test the defroster?

What do you think the problem could be? 
Thanks

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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 07:26 pm
   
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Pegi
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GE side-by-side refrigerator - Model TFX24RLP

Remove the rear panel in the freezer and see if the evaperator coil  is clogged with ice, if so you have a defrost problem, the food compartment gets its cold air from the freezer and this ice blocks the air flow. Check the defrost heater,, it is glass, and is most likely your problem.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 07:31 pm
   
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Pegi
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Defrost heater ref. # 230 and defrost termination thermostat # 240 in this breakdown.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 07:34 pm
   
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Pegi
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Defrost timer ref. # 257 in this breakdown, you can turn the timer till it clicks into defrost to see if the heater comes on, if it does the heater and bi-metal is good you you would replace the timer.  If it does not come on check the heater and the termination thermostat, while it is cold.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 08:30 pm
   
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ScottyP
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Thanks,

Will test tonight to see if I can determine which is defective.  Also, the diagram is exactly what I needed to find the part. :D

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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 08:32 pm
   
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ScottyP
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Question. Is the defrost timer inside of the fridge or in the back of the unit. In the diagram, it appears to be inside of the unit... Do you have the diagram legends with the part descriptions & possibly part numbers?

Last edited on Tue Oct 4th, 2005 08:58 pm by ScottyP

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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 09:18 pm
   
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Pegi
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Yes, the defrost timer is inside the food compartment up where the thermostat is.  Defrost heater=WR9X392, defrost termination thermostat=WR50X55, defrost timer=WR9X489.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 12:22 am
   
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ScottyP
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Thanks again Pegi.  I just removed everything from the fridge about to find and test the components.  I will post my results.

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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 03:12 am
   
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;)



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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 06:42 am
   
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ScottyP
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Pegi, you were absolutely correct. I remove the rear panel in the freezer and found a larger block of ice on the top evaperator coil  (but only on the top coil and only on the right). Turned the timer until it clicked, restarted the refridge and nothing happened with the heaters.  They are dead.  I will need to order a new defrost heater and defrost termination thermostat. After about 40 mins in the defrost cycle the refridge started cooling again.  Thus, I think the defroster timer is working properly.

I then tranferred all of the remaining contents in the refridge and placed into my old White mfg beer refridge in the garage which has been working constantly for 30 years after I bought it used in 1975 (mfg date 1961):cool:....   I will manually defrost the GE refridge tonight.  Hopefully tommorrow with the ice block melted, I will get a steady stream of cold air within the Fresh Food Compartment (as well as the freezer). This was a very easy test.  All I needed was the Pegi guidance to succeed... Thanks again...

Two questions: any knowledge of the online parts dealers for GE parts? I found a few: Point&Click, Appliance Parts Depot, Sears and Repair Clinic. Have a recommendation?  AND the doors are not aligned properly, so when closing them, they really bump the inner wall between the freezer and the fresh compartment when closing.  Any ideas to fix them too? Is this caused by the top or bottom door hinge assembly? Are adjustments possible?

Scotty

 

Last edited on Wed Oct 5th, 2005 07:18 am by ScottyP

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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 03:08 pm
   
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Pegi
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Might look at the top and bottom hinge assys, they can be adjusted/replaced, however, I am not liking what you saw with the frost pattern on the evaperator.  The whole coil should have been clogged with frost,  not just the top right.  Usually when the top right has a block of ice and the rest has no frost this indicates a sealed system problem......or you have water running down into the freezer coil from the ice maker system..Was this solid ice or frost??  Did the rest of the coil have frost or was it dry.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 04:28 pm
   
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Their was a block of ice on the top right and a little frost everywhere else.  Will I see any other problems for a failed system?  Or will this problem return? 

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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 04:38 pm
   
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Pegi
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Look at this frost pattern again today, should not be a block of ice at the top right, the whole coil should be even frost.  If the block at the top right is there again, this does not look good.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 10:56 pm
   
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ScottyP
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Inspected the frost pattern again today. All looks fine, an even coat of frost across all coils.  No ice buildup at the top right section. Dont know why the ice formed liked it did but I will check again when I install the heater and termination thermostat (probably Monday/Tuesday). The temperature in the fresh food compartment is colder, 36 degrees but the circulation appears stronger.  But now I must order the heater & thermo. Any suggestions?

Also, do you have instructions to adjust the doors? Or should I just order new hinges.

Thanks,

Scotty

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 Posted: Wed Oct 5th, 2005 11:06 pm
   
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Pegi
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Defrost heater=WR9X392, defrost termination thermostat=WR50X55. Order them right here from this site....glad the frost pattern looks good, tell wife to stop shopping!!   Look under the doors, probably need to replace the cam risers under the doors.  Might want to get the hinges too....



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 Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 12:23 am
   
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ScottyP
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Tell my wife to stop what?? :shock:  That's not going to happen..  So, as the stuff accumulates, I will just adjust the temperature. ;)

Thanks, I will order the defrost parts tonight with the cam risers & hinges.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 01:02 am
   
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ScottyP
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Nope, I checked my seals when I discovered this problem at first. Last night, I was pulling on the doors (the alignment screw on the top hinges were loose) to roll the fridge out to clean the accumulations behind & under the unit (cereal pieces, magnet ornaments, pepper, some dust, and misc sticky notes).  Its amazing how stuff find its way in these dark lonely places...:poison:  I have adjusted the doors back and everything is now fine with a good seal all  around..  

Ive been looking at the hinge parts though....  What does the hinge cam riser do? Does it stop the door from swinging all the way out?  Is it different than the door stopper?  Do I need both? One to rise and another to stop/restrict the door swing?  Why dont they sell a kit with all the parts in it? :?

Found WR13X10020 but not sure if this will fix/take care of the swinging door.  I do have mindless kids that assumes the door will stop on its own once opened.  They also assume it will close properly when they leave it.  If not, they will surely not notice it!!

Last edited on Thu Oct 6th, 2005 01:13 am by ScottyP

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 Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 02:11 am
   
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Pegi
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The cam risers close the door and allow it to open and stay there in a couple of positions, the door stop of course stops it from opening it too far.  The doors will close by them selves when opened 45 degrees if the front is higher than the rear of the box, so be sure to adjust the front of the box until the doors close by themselves when you get the cam risers replaced.



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 Posted: Thu Oct 6th, 2005 02:22 pm
   
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ScottyP
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How do I adjust the height?  Is there a height adjustment screw somewhere for the front & rear wheels?


As for the doors, I ordered two cam risers only for the bottom hinges.  The freezer door has 2 special hinges; the top hinge for the harness and the bottom hinge for the water line. Couldnt find replacement parts for these.  I dont see or could not find any cam risers on the top hinges my unit. I did find a bottom hinge kit with 1 bottom hinge and 2 cam risers (one for top and one for bottom).  But the kit will only work on my fresh food door.

Thanks again for all of the help...
Scotty

Last edited on Thu Oct 6th, 2005 08:47 pm by ScottyP

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