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Repairing a Fridge  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2005 07:27 am
   
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(pinkpanther)
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Dear Samarai,

I have a GE side by side refrigerator model # TFX25PRYD WW .

 

First the fridge side began warming up. I followed your instructions of checking the defrost timer and it was okay. I also checked the heater and found it questionable. I follwed your advice and replaced both. I also found out that the light in my fridge never turns off and I repaired that as well. It then began to work better but it keeps running and does not switch off. The defrost timing is good, so I replaced the thermostat twice and nothing changed. I am able to turn it off manually. When I turn it back on it will come back on at the right temperature.   So my problem now is that the temperature in the fridge will go down to 37 degrees and the freezer side goes to about 10 degrees until the evaporators freeze up. Could I have purchased 2 bad thermostats in a row?  Could I be installing the thermostat wrong? Any ideas of what the problem could be?

Thank you,

K

 

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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2005 11:57 am
   
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Moostafa
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Hello, my warming up friend. While reading of your travails, I was struck by this statement you made:

The defrost timing is good,...

And I wondered aloud to myself, "How has this femininely-coloured panther made such a determination?" My muttering startled one of my wives, causing her to disrobe in front of me and my remaining thoughts were lost in the frantic rustling of robes, pillows and yak skins.

Afterwards, as I lay smoking my hookah with my thoughts returning, it occurred to me that the defrost timer is the only piece of the defrosting system that you have not replaced. Further, it is much more likely that the fault lies with another component, such as the defrost timer, rather than a new component that you have already replaced.

Please excuse me, one of my other wives has come in and is "startled" as well.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2005 04:04 pm
   
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(pinkpanther)
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Hi Moos

I did replace the defrost timer as I mentioned.


Jazak Allah

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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2005 04:09 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I had to re-read your post a few times to finally pull out what you had and had not done. To summarize, you have replaced:

defrost timer

defrost heaters

defrost thermostat

Is this correct?



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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2005 04:19 pm
   
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nickfixit
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Put your contol settings at the factory reccomended set points. usually the middle settings.

Actually 10 degrees and 37 degrees are good temps.

If you can, post a picture of your evaporator coils so we can see the frost pattern. Also lets see your controls.

Nick



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 Posted: Thu Sep 15th, 2005 04:53 pm
   
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(pinkpanther)
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Hi Samurai

That is correct.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 16th, 2005 02:19 am
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Awaiting your response to Master Nick's post...



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 Posted: Fri Sep 16th, 2005 02:31 am
   
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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    When You say thermostat are you talking about the cold control in the fresh food side or are you talking about that little silver thing (Defrost Thermostat) that attaches to the top of your evaporator coil?   When you replaced the defrost heater did you use a WR51X443 defrost heater harness which includes that little silver thing as well as the heater?




    The tech sheet on a lot of those GEs will say the defrost duration is 35 minutes.  I find they are almost 50 minutes most of the time.  I almost always end up replacing the defrost heater harness on frosted up GE side by sides like yours.   But I ALWAYS check it,. do the procedure.




    Put the timer in defrost, remember what time it is, then start removing the evaporator cover.  If you find the heaters on there is a 99.2 % chance you have a bad timer.  If not you need to check the heater and the defrost t-stat.  You can bypass the defrost thermostat and see if the heaters come on if you like. cut the power first.  By the time I get defrosted, replace the bad heater harness and put it back together the timer comes out of defrost.  I won't leave until I hear the compressor start. If it reaches close to an hour I start getting nervous.  Any longer than I that I go back in and change the timer too.


 

     This could also be the early stages of a sealed system problem.
       

Last edited on Fri Sep 16th, 2005 02:34 am by Jedi Appliance Guy

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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 07:58 am
   
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(pinkpanther)
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Hi Nick

Sorry it took a while to post the pic.

thanks

Attachment: freezer1.JPG (Downloaded 149 times)

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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 08:00 am
   
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control pic.

Attachment: cont1.JPG (Downloaded 113 times)

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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 03:34 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Your freezer pic looks like early stage sealed system failure to me.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 04:49 pm
   
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(pinkpanther)
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Hi Samurai

Why doesn't my fridge ever stop running? The temperature reaches 36 in the frest food side and around 10 to 17 in the freezer. Should n't it shut off ?

Thanks,

K

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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 05:01 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Wrong question. You should be asking, "Why will my freezer only get to 10 to 17F?" Your freezer should get to 0F without even trying.

The other question you should be asking is, "What does that mean that I have 'early-stage sealed system failure?'"

Great questions! Just waiting to see if you'll ask them or if you're still stuck on the merely symptomatic question of, "Why doesn't my fridge ever stop running?"



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 05:04 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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One other thought: have you brushed and vacuumed the condenser?



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 05:53 pm
   
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Pegi
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YOu have major problems with the sealed system, the whole evaperator coils should be frosted.  You either have a freon leak and are are low on freon, the system is in a prartial restriction or your compressor is going down so the box can never stop running as the thermostat is not getting staisfied.  You are looking at big $$$ unless this box is under warranty.  If it is not under warranty go looking for a nice Whirlpool and get away from the G.E. nightmare.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 07:04 pm
   
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I don't think pinky-p liked our diagnoses, Pegi. He went shopping... for a better answer!



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 Posted: Tue Sep 20th, 2005 07:10 pm
   
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Pegi
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Hummm, the frost pattern on the evap coil tells the whole story, sure would have saved everybody a lot of time if this had been revealed at the first of this thread....:?



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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 12:39 am
   
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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   Nick called it way back when he suggested Pinkey post the pictures.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 21st, 2005 01:48 am
   
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(pinkpanther)
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Thank you Pegi and Jedi for your help! That is the answer that I was looking for.

If I knew what a "sealed system failure" was I would not be posting on this forum.

K

( who had actually went to work )

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 Posted: Sat Apr 5th, 2008 02:52 pm
   
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markinwisconsin
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Daughter had a problem with her fridge which originally appeared as a defrost timer problem.  Replaced the timer, and then the fridge and freezer were not cooling.  After unplugging it for a few days I noticed water under it.  Plugged it back in and temperature cooled to -5F within a day.  Freezer temp increased to +4F over the next few days but appears stable.  The fridge temp is good 28-34F depending on setting.  Looking at picture, my evaporator coils after a couple days looks like the picture attached here.  Heavy frost buildup at the bottom.  Defrost heater resistances appear ok but I'm a little confused. Bottom heater resistance was 20 ohms and the top was only 6 ohms?  Any ideas?

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