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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool refrigerator: Do these compressor Ohm readings look okay?

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Whirlpool refrigerator: Do these compressor Ohm readings look okay?  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 12:56 am
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SolidG
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Old Whirlpool fridge (>20 yrs I'd say, but still cools and looks great.)
Model EDT202ZKGR1

Symtoms: buzz sound (some may call it a loud hum) for ~1 sec, then silence for ~40 seconds, then repeat over and over. Condenser fan is on. Lost it's cooling. Unplugged now.

I assume it is either the relay or the compressor. The relay is the old copper coil type. No capacitor that I can see.

Here are the compressor ohm readings (using a venerable old Simpson meter):
C to S: 12.6 ohms
C to R: 0.8 ohms
R to S: 11.8 ohms
No meter needle movement detected when meter set at 10,000 ohms and tested between the 3 connections on the compressor and ground.

From these readings, do you experts think the compressor is okay and worth trying to get a relay for it? I tried the local appliance store, but they only offered the 3-in-1 relay/capacitor/overload, which I hear is a last resort item.

Is there a standard relay replacement available anywhere for this old fridge?

Thanks for any help. I would love to keep this great old fridge going if possible. It's the best one I've ever had.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 02:01 am
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seems to be an old "current relay"

may be
549500
substitute
851280
950235

NLA




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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 02:27 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Relay part link==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Compressor-or-Sealed-System-Component/731737

I don't see many of these old relays fail, but it's easy to check 'em with your meter.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 02:58 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Relay part link==>

Relay

This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source for the part

Not available



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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 03:58 am
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You can try the supco P/N RO81....it is just a relay/overload combination pack................may be worth a try...............about  20 greenbacks....

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 04:03 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Relay part link==>

Relay

This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source for the part

Not available


I put the link there for the purdy pitcher... too lazy to paste in the image. :P



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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 07:33 am
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SolidG
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Thanks to all for the part numbers for my relay, and for the R081 alternative. The picture of 851280 (repairclinic #731737) is exactly what my part looks like. After a little searching I did find it available (according to the website anyway) here: http://www.bellparts.com/product/3498546
for about $50 (but it's a special order and has a 7-10 day wait before shipment).

By the way, I did some continuity tests on the relay across various terminals upside down and rightside up (as described here: http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/check/compressorrelay3.php
and it seems to pass these tests (although sometimes when flipping it over, I had to jiggle it to respond -- not sure if that's relevant). Are there other tests?

Another bit of data: I did notice that the compressor and coils vibrated during the buzzing sound and continued vibrating a second or two after the buzz stopped, if that is of any value. It seems like the motor started to turn over, but it didn't continue running.

My main questions now are:

Given that it seems that the compressor readings do not completely point to the compressor as the problem (or do they? they look a little off from others I have seen), and the relay seems mostly okay as well (and Mr. Samurai-san affirms that they rarely fail)... What do you appliantologists think is the best next step? (If it is try a relay, do you suggest the original part (1-2 weeks wait), or put in the R081 or a 3-in-1?)

Apologies for the long message, and again, thanks for the help. I very much appreciate your help.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:52 am
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If you're comfortable with 120v electrical wiring,

Here's a diagram of a Compressor Test Cord you could make ..

It connects the Run winding to 120v and has a manual "start switch".

Would need to carefully use alligator clips, etc ..


(Ignore the Compressor OHM meter readings ...)



 

 







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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 12:07 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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SolidG wrote: Here are the compressor ohm readings (using a venerable old Simpson meter):
C to S: 12.6 ohms
C to R: 0.8 ohms
R to S: 11.8 ohms
No meter needle movement detected when meter set at 10,000 ohms and tested between the 3 connections on the compressor and ground.


I'm certainly surprised that no one has said anything about your ohm readings of the compressor!!!!!

Looks to me from the readings that you have a major problem in the run windings, (almost dead shorted with only 0.8 ohms resistance).  Also R to S should be equal or at least very close to the total of C-S and C-R windings, your R to S reading is less then the reading from C to S.

Generally the start windings ohms will be about 20% higher then the run windings.  If the start windings are OK at the 12.6 ohms I would expect to see around 7-10 ohms on the run windings.

The 12.6 ohms on the start sounds a little on the high side also but with an older 20+ year old unit that isn't energy efficient around 12 ohms on the start might be OK.   On newer energy efficient compressors I don't think you hardly every see any with much higher then 5 to 8 ohms on the start windings.


Last edited on Thu Nov 18th, 2010 12:15 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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