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Magic Chef gas oven Mod#31HA-2KLX Oven will not shut off

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Posted: Fri Nov 12th, 2010 05:21 pm

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Tservic
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I have a Magic Chef Stove Model #31HA-2KLX and the SE#ON 30C924622619 The ID plate says it was mfg in 1984. Here is the story. Woke up one night with the CO2 detector going off. It was the Oven. It would not turn off. Shut the gas off, called a repairman, he said the oven gas safety valve needed adjusting. He charged me $50 adjusted it and left. 3 weeks went by and the wife baked a pie. Now the oven is on high and will not shut off! called repairman, he came out, said the oven gas safety valve needed adjusting again. He charged me $50 adjusted it, said next time if it did it again, he would need to replac it and left. You guessed it. It happened again. called repairman he said part was $180.00 and $50 service call again. I told him don't bother I would just buy a new stove. If I would have let him do it I would have had $330.00 invested, almost enough to buy a new stove!

After reading info from your sight I think I can do this and the part from you is about $100 CHEAPER! Is it just a matter of replacing the part? or is there any adjusting that would need done after I replaced it? I figure if I can replace a dryer belt on an old GE gas Dryer I can do this, With your help. PLEASE HELP QUICK! I CAN'T STAND ANY MORE BISCUITS!

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Posted: Fri Nov 12th, 2010 06:23 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Tservic wrote: ... said the oven gas safety valve needed adjusting. He charged me $50 ...

... called repairman, he came out, said the oven gas safety valve needed adjusting again. He charged me $50...

... It happened again. called repairman he said part was $180.00 and $50 service call again
Don't call him again.

Do you have a written receipt ?

I think you should get a refund.

I think he should be reported.

Gas Safety Valves aren't adjustable and wouldn't cause that problem.

Does the Oven keep the "set temperature" when it won't turn OFF ?

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Posted: Fri Nov 12th, 2010 11:01 pm

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Tservic
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No I don't think I will call him, Except for a refund! I'm gonna look for that recpt and see what he put the bill was for. I also looked in the broiler door where he was doing the "adjusting" and all I could see he could get to was the igniter? Could that be what he was really "adjusting"

You asked, "does it keep the set temp" I think it does now that you mention it. The first time it Happened the oven was turned down low to keep some food warm and the other times it was being used to bake somethingat 350 so it was hot. Since there is no temperature device other than the oven temperature dial knob that turns it on and off, and is marked for the desired heat. I would not know if the oven temp remains the same.

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 01:30 pm

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BrntToast
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what happens if you unplug the unit? does gas still flow?

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 01:43 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The ignitor isn't adjustable, either. Master Reg speaketh wisdom and truth. Your "repairman" speweth deception and guile.

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 02:54 pm

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Tservic
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Yep The gas flows even though the stove is unplugged. Please hurry! I am sick of biscuits and the wife says if I aint got it fixed soon she's gonna buy a new stove!

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 02:59 pm

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Tservic
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If the safety valve is not adjustable, and the igniter is not adjustable, then what could he have been fooling with to make it work? He was using a small wrench and screwdriver and reaching close to the back of the oven thru the broiler door?

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:01 pm

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BrntToast
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if gas flows when unplugged you need a gas valve

on some maytags you can access this part by removing the access panel at the back of the drawer, i suspect your adjustments consisted of rapping this valve with a screwdriver

go remove that panel, locate the valve(its square with wires going to it) and give it a few taps and see if the gas shuts off, if so discontinue using the range till the valve is changed

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:17 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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although, it was mentioned that the Oven keeps set temperature ...

I can't find a parts nor wiring diagram for that model, but also sounds like it has a mechanical Oven Control

that may be bad allowing the Ignitor to keep the Gas Valve open ...

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:23 pm

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BrntToast
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found parts link, old style mechanical control that powers the gas valve

however grasshopper states gas flows with unit unplugged, this eliminates the signal from the control and takes us to the gas valve

but hey! will a gas range sustain a flame without an ignitor glowing?

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:28 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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BrntToast wrote: found parts link, old style mechanical control that powers the gas valve

however grasshopper states gas flows with unit unplugged, this eliminates the signal from the control and takes us to the gas valve

but hey! will a gas range sustain a flame without an ignitor glowing?

1) could you post a parts link ..

2) missed that

3) yes, only if the gas never stoped flowing (wouldn't re-light)

yes, seems like a bad Gas Safety Valve

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:32 pm

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BrntToast
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one number off, but i believe its the same style

http://lookup.partadvantage.com/lookup/maytag/2729/00033246

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:35 pm

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BrntToast
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and ya, that was a silly question on my part

without the ignitor if a gas valve was stuck open its just a BBQ, however dont most maytags simply cycle the ignitor?

shouldn't this unit be reaching self-clean temps if its left running non-stop with a stuck valve?

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:42 pm

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BrntToast
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tservic .... does the flame still burn with the unit unplugged? as in while its burning and you unplug, what happens? still buring gas or just gas flow?

and have you seen a wiring diagram anywhere on the unit you can take a picture of or scan?

Last edited on Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:43 pm by BrntToast

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:50 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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BrntToast wrote: however dont most maytags simply cycle the ignitor?

shouldn't this unit be reaching self-clean temps if its left running non-stop with a stuck valve?

1) yes (all Ignitor Ovens are cycled)

2) not if it's a ... slow... leak
the Flame would be loooow

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 03:51 pm

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Tservic
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Did just what you said. Can't get to it from the back (Its a Magic Chef) so I took out the Broiler pan and door, Tapped on the valve and the gas quit coming out.

However when I turn on the oven with the control knob, The igniter glows real bright but the stove won't light, Tapped some more on the safety valve but still no gas. So is that what I need? A new safety gas valve? When installing one is it just a matter of unhooking the wires and unscrewing the connectors then reversing the proceedure?

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 04:01 pm

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BrntToast
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yes, you need a new valve

there is a lil more than just tightening the lines, after the new valve is installed you should apply a gas leak bubble solution to the fittings and look for bubbles(the good pro stuff isn't much and for a newbie i advise use the premade product over mixing your own)

lastly... cause you are not expierienced i suggest another leak test

turn off ALL gas appliances in the home, furnace,hot water tank and any other gas fed units(make sure you turn gas off to any of these units if they have the old style standing pilot light)

once all other units are off go to your gas meter and mark the dials, wait 2 hours and recheck, if the dials match the marks you have no gas flowing and no leaks, if there is a change you have a gas leak somewhere(providing you have shut off all other sources of gas usage)

dont rush the leak checks, a professional is still cheaper than your insurance deductable

and making more money is alot quicker than making a new family

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 04:14 pm

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Tservic
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No gas at all now, even after tapping. I looked all over the oven and booklet that came with it, I don't think it is a self cleaning oven. It was built in 1984 according to the ID label. I did locate the wiring diagram. Not sure if I can get this pic on here. But here goes.

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 04:22 pm

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BrntToast
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we dont need wiring diagram, from you saying the oven burns when unplugged we know you need the gas valve its the only thing that can cause your range to continue to burn once unplugged

sorry my final tap did your valve in, didn't mean to ruin dinner for you, but with that final tap you now know what "adjustment" you paid 50 dollars for each time

if you have any questions when installing the new valve post em up

and PLEASE follow my leak tests if you change the valve yourself

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Posted: Sat Nov 13th, 2010 04:36 pm

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BrntToast
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last for now

we have not found an exact match for your model number to provide the part # for your valve, i found a close model, but prefer exact when it comes to gas

can you confirm your model #, if you come up with the same as originaly posted you need to read the valve and post any numbers on it

there should be some way to gain access to it from the back(i think), i'm the frigidaire man here, not the maytag man

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