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GE refrigerator PFS22SISBSS 2006 Compressor testing

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 08:14 pm

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gbouchzoo
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Symptoms- No more cold air, all lights and fans inside the cabinet functioning normally (all normal sounds).
Run capacitor clicks on and off, Compressor is/was very warm/hot to touch, Compressor gets a muffle hum like it wants to run but the Run capacitor or the Overload relay kick out after about 5 seconds.
Pulled the OL relay and RC. Tested with an Ohmmeter across the contacts; no reading on either unit (does not go to '0'). Is this normal?
Ohmmeter across (3) contacts in any order/pairing coming from the compressor goes to (0). Is this normal?
Shook both units- very minor metallic clicking in the OL relay, doesn't sound overly busted up. How much rattle quantifies 'busted'?
Voltage at the motherboard check (J2 3-5 3.8vdc & 3-8 12vdc).
Pulled the motherboard- no apparent burn marks or scorching on the backside.
Condenser fan was turning albeit slowly before I unplugged it for the night last night.
Condenser coils were cool to the touch.
Jumping Line to J8 gets me nothing yet with the connector in place everything tries to function normally (normal sounds).

GE service scheduled not scheduled till Monday (5 days from now). Fortunately I have another unit in my unoccupied guest house so, no loss of food or function. Local repair guy suggests waiting for GE tech. as both MB and Compressor are under warranty.

What are the odds: Bad motherboard, frozen compressor, bad OL relay/ Run Capacitor?

Thanks
Gary

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 08:34 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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gbouchzoo wrote: .. Run capacitor clicks on and off

Ohmmeter across (3) contacts in any order/pairing coming from the compressor goes to (0). Is this normal?

Shook both units- very minor metallic clicking in the OL relay, doesn't sound overly busted up. How much rattle quantifies 'busted'?

1) If it's clicking, that's not a Capacitor.

2) need to measure using a digital OHM meter on the 200 OHM scale
should read somewhere between 4 OHMs and 10 OHMs

3) Does it look like this ?

click on picture

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 08:56 pm

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gbouchzoo
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We are talking about the same part. Sorry, don't know where 'capacitor' came from.

Let's talk triangle pointing down and measuring the contact leads coming off the compressor:
With an analog meter set to 1- bottom to top right & bottom to top left +/-8ohm, top left to top right 12-14ohm

Last edited on Thu Nov 11th, 2010 02:19 pm by

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 09:16 pm

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gbouchzoo
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Oh yes I do remember...
Part 812 Run capacitor - 12 uf.
Part Number: AP2071964 made by GE

This part plugs into Part 811 Overload/relay
This is the part that is making the clicking noise.

Last edited on Thu Nov 11th, 2010 02:19 pm by

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 09:27 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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your link is actually just the OverLoad

my link is the Starter Relay .. (if yours looks like that)

different parts when different Compressors are used for production or replacement

depends what rattles when shaken..

normally the Start Relay will rattle when bad

The OverLoad may "click" when it's operating in overload function

usually about 4 OHMs between one pair

8 OHMs between another pair

12 OHMs between third pair (4+8)

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 09:51 pm

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gbouchzoo
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My part is similar to yours in that is has the same post to support the run capacitor. There is something odd about the diagram and part I noted from that site- unless I chose the incorrect item from the diagram.

Re: usually about 4 OHMs between one pair, 8 OHMs between another pair, 12 OHMs between third pair (4+8)
I am getting +/-8ohm on each of two pairs and another 12-14ohm on the third pair. Does this mean anything significant? We are both measuring the at pins on the compressor, yes?

What about the J2 pins 3-5 3.8vdc & pins 3-8 12vdc? I seem to have read on another post pins 3-5 should be 12vdc also.

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 10:17 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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gbouchzoo wrote: I am getting +/-8ohm on each of two pairs and another 12-14ohm on the third pair. Does this mean anything significant?

What about the J2 pins 3-5 3.8vdc & pins 3-8 12vdc? I seem to have read on another post pins 3-5 should be 12vdc also.

1) depends on the OHM meter and if it's zero'ed correctly.

a digital OHM meter would be easier/better

if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

they have these meters, normally $ 4.99, w/battery

but sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store

click on picture

OR

click on picture ...

OR this one

click on picture

2) J2:

Pin 3 to Pin 8 12v DC supply

Pin 3 to Pin 4 Evaporator Fan 12v DC = Hi Speed 8v DC = Low Speed

Pin 3 to Pin 5 Condenser Fan 12v DC (only one speed)

Pin 3 to Pin 6 Fresh Food Fan 0v DC = Hi Speed 3v DC = Low Speed

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Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 11:53 pm

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gbouchzoo
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Harbor Freight is about 8 mi., I'lll check their online flyers and trot on down tomorrow, though I did zero the analog meter. As the old saying goes- 'one can never truly have enough tools'.

Any thoughts regarding the other data I gathered or is this the proper troubleshooting order?
As I have a few days till the serviceman arrives, I'll exercise all opportunities to pinpoint the issue and prevent any BS the serviceperson may seek to dole my way (wait, servicemen aren't related to used car salesmen, are they?).
Although you can find parts suppliers online that will take returns on electrical components, I do not know of any local suppliers here in L.A. that do. It would be great to proof some of these parts before Monday.

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Posted: Mon Nov 15th, 2010 11:31 pm

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gbouchzoo
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Service tech just left; took one look and diagnosed the motherboard and promptly wrote me an estimate for $310.
I showed him the 'GE letter' and this websites postings regarding this issue and shared that I should not be needing to pay anything. He said "that's an old letter" pointing to the letters date of origin; I replied "it says 'replace until further notice'- show me a followup letter that rescinds this directive".
As expected he claimed to have never heard of this, called his Tech line friends who claimed the same and reaffirmed to the service guy 1 Yr warranty only.

I politely told the service tech that I was not interested in jerking him around and that he was free to move on and help another customer while I contact GE and hash this all out.
All in all- 5 wasted days.

More later.

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 12:25 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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letter should still be valid if your model/date code is listed

whats the first (3) characters of your serial number ?

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 01:14 am

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gbouchzoo
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Model #PFS22SISBSS
Ser. No. SLO46433

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 02:12 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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SL = Septmber 2006

not included in recall letter of November 7, 2006

only May '05 - Jul '06

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 02:37 am

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gbouchzoo
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Then I must ask GE to verify the problem with the boards covered (batch run numbers of the boards and faulty component(s)) and how that issue was addressed in my 'improved' September model. If the failure in those is the same as my issue, then the problem was obviously not rectified in a satisfactory manner.

I probably should have purchased and replaced the board myself up front instead of trusting GE had my back.

Are you, the service rep. professionals, still finding and repairing these covered units in the field?

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 02:45 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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gbouchzoo wrote: ... still finding and repairing these covered units in the field?
yes, but is the MotherBoard bad ?

Was that a GE authorized serviceman ?

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 05:59 am

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gbouchzoo
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GE Tech #125-02-0211 in his snappy GE van.

I plugged the unit in @ 1:00 PM after it had been off for the last five days. Tech showed up @ 2:30 PM.
Compressor got warm/hot to the touch but was not running, relays clicked in and out repeatedly and the condenser fan was turning slowly.
He took one look at it and declared the 'motherboard' as the source of the problem without opening the back cover, taking any readings or doing anything except typing and clicking away on his laptop and handing me the estimate for repairs.

So, to answer your question, the motherboard was not empirically confirmed by the technician to be bad.

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 10:06 pm

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gbouchzoo
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Just got off the phone with GE customer service. Given the fact my unit is so close to the concession letter/model run window, they are sending me a new motherboard free of charge that I can install myself.
I have to be fair and express my appreciation as the service rep was extremely helpful and took the time to verify all data regarding the recall window, models affected and the production date of my unit.

Another fine example of how doing a little homework and asking the right questions to the right people can reap big rewards and successful solutions. I'll report back once I receive the board and install it.

Thanks to you also for your advice and this forum.

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 10:25 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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just wondering if you happened to mention "fixitnow.com" or "appliance guru.com" ?

also note: a bad Fan Motor can take out a MotherBoard ...

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Posted: Tue Nov 16th, 2010 11:42 pm

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gbouchzoo
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I was very up front with both the tech who came yesterday and with the GE customer service where I was doing my research and getting support from.

Is there a straightforward test that can be done on the fan motor before I install the new board? And are we talking about the slow-turning condenser fan motor or the evaporator fan motor?

FYI, I am not using the water dispenser or ice maker; never hooked up a water line to the unit.

For arguments sake, if the motherboard is not sending the proper the proper voltage to the fan motor, is there a way of directly applying a proper amount of voltage to the fan motor to see if will turn at a more proper rpm?

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Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 01:08 am

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12v DC Condenser Fan:

check resistance between the Red and the White wires.

shouldn't be less than 1k OHM (1000 ohms)

Does the Evaporator Fan run OK
(uses the same 12v DC)

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Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 05:44 am

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gbouchzoo
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Provided it is the only other fan in the unit that I am aware of, yeah- the Evaporator Fan runs as soon as you plug the unit in and distributes air inside the cabinets.

I'll test the Condenser Fan on Wednesday.

Since it is a 12v DC fan and assuming it tests to the 1000 ohms, if I was to (hypothetically) touch the leads to say, the battery from my motorcycle, I could expect to see the fan to spin at its designed speed? Obviously if it tests fine there would be no need to perform this experiment; just curious. But now that I am in a thinking mood- would a good Cond. Fan spin at its normal speed if you jumped the Evap. Fan leads off the MB to it?

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