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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Ice Maker not getting water into ice forming tray ET22DK

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Ice Maker not getting water into ice forming tray ET22DK  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 05:00 pm
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nroddy
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Hello appliance Guru

I have an ice maker problem. I moved a while back and brought my Whirlpool ET22DK Fridge with me. I did not immediately hook up the ice maker on arrival as I moved to a place with poor water quality and had been running only filtered water through my >10 year old fridge, I did replace the icemaker itself one in the last ~5 years with your help. I just installed an h2o filter and hooked‘er up again. Now I believe I have a water inlet valve problem. The lines are clear. Water is delivered to the water valve inlet, and from this valve to the icemaker unit the line is clear as evidenced by my blowing through the line and hearing air expelled at the icemaker site. The mechanism of the icemaker itself appears to be running/moving/rotating correctly. I did try talking nicely to the inlet valve and then tapping her gently. Still she’s not opening the gate. Do you recommend purchasing and installing the water inlet valve as the next step in my go live process? Would you have a part number for that?

Thanks, Nancy

 

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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 05:42 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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How did you get it to "running/moving/rotating"  ?

During the beginning of a cycle, the Water Inlet Valve should be powered for about 7 seconds.

Test for 120v AC at the Water Valve during that time.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 05:53 pm
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nroddy
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To get it to go through that cycle I do a poor man's 'reboot'. Place the ice detector in the up position as though the  ice bin is full. Unplug the fridge, wait 30 seconds, plug fridge back in. Wait until the freezer thinks it is at temperature (no cold air blowing around up there) Drop detector to 'bin emply' position. Et voila! Ice maker cycles.

How do I test for 120v AC at the Water Valve during that time? Does it involve my tongue? :D

Nancy

 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 05:56 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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do you (or someone) have a volt meter ?

and/or know how to use one ?

 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 06:34 pm
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nroddy
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I have a circuit tester

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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 06:40 pm
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nroddy
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And in my job I perform high end medical equipment repair and amintenance which involves electricity and fluidics and computer junk too. I have dabbled in appliance repair for my own appliances at home for ~25 years. I can't fix a toaster though. I took the last one apart, put it a paper bag, threw it in the trash then bought a new one.

I have time for this repair as no human life is on the line today. And I can live without ice. :)

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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 06:48 pm
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nroddy wrote: I have a circuit tester
that should work, although I'm not sure where the Water Valve is on that model..

not shown in parts diagrams



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 07:53 pm
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nroddy
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And we now know that power is getting to the water inlet valve. Time for a replacement?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 04:06 pm
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nroddy
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Do you think it is the valve?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 04:35 pm
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Remove the water line from the WATER VALVE.

If the *shut-off* valve is located behind the refrigerator---use a bucket to verify water flows when the shut-off valve is opened.

If the icemaker shut-off valve is located elsewhwere---you'll need a 2nd person to assist you.

Oftentimes---the shut-off valve (most of them are "saddle valves") has been installed on a 3/4 inch cold water pipe in the basement or crawl space.

If the saddle valve has been installed with the *handle* in the 6 O'clock position---the opening in the cold water pipe eventually becomes blocked by grit.

When possible---the saddle valve should be installed on a cold water pipe anywhere from the 9-to-12-to-3 O'clock positions to prevent blockage at the small hole in the 3/4 inch cold water supply pipe.

If water *does* flow from the icemaker supply line---replace the WATER VALVE.

Last edited on Wed Nov 10th, 2010 04:49 pm by john63

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 Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 04:35 pm
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could be ..

Was the voltage detected for about 7 seconds ?

You may have to confirm that with a "real" voltmeter.

OR the water line is frozen somewhere after the Water Valve ..

 



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 Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 04:41 pm
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john63

 

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OR the water line is frozen somewhere after the Water Valve ..


******
 
 
 
I agree---this should be ruled out as well. It's a common problem.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 10th, 2010 05:43 pm
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nroddy
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the line is clear

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