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Maytag MDB1530 motor shot?  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 03:21 am
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H.Will
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Automatic function test gets to motor cut-in, hum for 3 seconds, test aborts. Code shows high current winding fault. Manual function test mode shows same result, motor hum and abort. Drain function still works. Test modes seem to work as described on tech sheet, so control module isn't suspected. Machine is basically in good shape, no hard water issues. I did find three hinge pins and a spring in the pump strainer, what might these be from?

Are these MDB machines worth repairing, at 9 years old? Motor is 136 at RC, about 75 used. Better to just grab a craigslist machine, or is the ol' Maytag a fixer?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 05:02 am
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Tim M
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Are you sure you have the right model number?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 05:04 am
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Tim M
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Can you spin the motor by hand?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 12:18 pm
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H.Will
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Tim M wrote: Are you sure you have the right model number?
Right you are, typo. MDB5130AWQ she is.

I can spin the motor by hand, and the low-current winding is still working.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 03:09 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ohm out the windings on the motor, check each winding resistance and check resistance to ground. I think you may find the wash winding is open. If not, then need to check voltage supply to wash winding. May be getting junk voltage.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 3rd, 2010 03:36 pm
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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 12:15 am
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H.Will
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I'll ohm out the windings as suggested, I've got a feeling I may find a short instead of an open. Is there a start cap on these motors? I'm trying to account for the brief hum at motor (attempted) start.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 4th, 2010 12:58 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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No start capacitor or run capacitor but there is a thermal overload in the motor which will trip if the motor is trying to power up with only one set of the windings energized.

Thus you would here the hum and if you leave it humming it will eventually trip the thermal overload and all will be quite again until the thermal overload resets.  

The controller maybe shutting the motor down and giving the error before the thermal overload trips.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 12:43 am
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H.Will
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OK, I've got an open on the gray and blue, 6.5Ω blue/red, 2.6Ω blue/yellow, and 9Ω red/yellow. Looks like the wash winding's open, as the master predicted. I bow before the master.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 01:34 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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It came to me in a vision. ;)

Here's the motor-pump assembly you need to fix your dishwasher==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pump-Component/1012460



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 01:38 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: It came to me in a vision. ;)

Here's the motor-pump assembly you need to fix your dishwasher==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pump-Component/1012460


Samurai, put that beer down and back away from the crystal ball you're getting your visions from.

That looks strangely like a Frickadaire dishwasher pump&sump assembly.

EDITED TO ADD: Looks like Samurai may not have seen the corrected model # on post #4 (MDB5130AWQ), header has MDB1530, which may pull up one of the six Frigidaire built Maytags, (I wasn't aware that Maytag every put there name on a Frigidaire built dishwasher). 

Last edited on Sat Nov 6th, 2010 01:54 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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