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Kenmore gas range 790.71513403  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 03:13 am
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fixitwannabe
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When I turn on the oven, you can hear a click and a humming noise coming from the control panel, but the oven doesn't light. The ignitor doesn't glow at all.

I read some of the post, and tested the ignitor with a multitester with it set on ohms and it made the needle jump.

Everything else works. The top burners light fine and the clock, timer etc. work but the oven doesn't light. Could the control panel be defective?

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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 04:18 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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fixitwannabe wrote: .. The ignitor doesn't glow at all...

.. Could the control panel be defective?..

yes, or a bad Gas Valve

OHM across the Gas Valve

OR, OHM from either side of Ignitor to Neutral Pin on the (unplugged) Power Cord.

should also make the meter needle "jump"

790.71513403 Tech Sheets

 



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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 06:25 am
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fixitwannabe
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I pulled both terminals from the ignitor, off of the gas valve and get continuity on the two terminals on the gas valve. I then reconnected one of the terminals and tested the other one and the neutral of the power cord and got continuity.

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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 06:32 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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then it would seem to be a bad Controller

click on picture



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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 12:11 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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fixitwannabe wrote: When I turn on the oven, you can hear a click and a humming noise coming from the control panel
There's a very good chance the noise is actually an electrical arching noise.

You maybe able to repair the controller if it hasn't burnt the board up to bad yet, It's not uncommon to see cold solder joints on the relay contact solder pins.   I had one a couple of months ago that was smoking and smelling really bad when trying to use oven.   The board was so burnt up around the relay pins and built up with carbon from the burnt board it was nearly creating a dead short and just melting the electronic pcb board down.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 04:46 pm
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fixitwannabe
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Thanks Reg, just ordered the controller. It should be in 10/29. I'll give an update Friday night.

B A R, Thanks for the input, but for now, at least the burners still work, and I'm not to inclined to disect the board. Besides, I would probably do more harm than good. We'll see what the new controller does when I get it.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 08:50 pm
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fixitwannabe
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Well, got the control board and the new one looks a little different than the original. The pin configuration is the same. Plugged it in, and got nothin'. The clock didn't even come on.

Based on my ovens model # 790.71513403, this is the part that comes up (1197179) for the control board. The Black box on the back of the new board is smaller than the one on the original, and there's a few different circiuts.

The sticker on my board has a model # 316222810, but when I plug that number in the parts search, I get the same (1197179). Anyone have any Ideas??

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 09:00 pm
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fixitwannabe
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote:

There's a very good chance the noise is actually an electrical arching noise.

You maybe able to repair the controller if it hasn't burnt the board up to bad yet, It's not uncommon to see cold solder joints on the relay contact solder pins.   I had one a couple of months ago that was smoking and smelling really bad when trying to use oven.   The board was so burnt up around the relay pins and built up with carbon from the burnt board it was nearly creating a dead short and just melting the electronic pcb board down.

B. A. R.
Since I still have no oven, figure I'll get brave and have at it with the board. Your right, the Black relay is loose, and when I popped the board out, there is a very small burn on one of the pins. I'm gonna try soldering it and hoping that does it!

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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 10:06 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You probably got the revised board. It's almost certainly the correct part. Did the board come with installation instructions or a change notice? Even without it, you can usually figure out the correct wiring from comparing with the old one and using the wiring diagram.

Can you some good quality pics of the old and new boards so we we can see? Use a free image hosting service so you can upload nice n' bigguns.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 02:54 am
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fixitwannabe
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The soldering worked woohoooo! Plugged the board in, set the clock and pressed "Bake". Within seconds the ignitor was glowing and now we're baking up a storm. Go figure

Sam,
Don't know what to tell ya, revised or not, it still don't work. It is the right part. I looked it up on Sears and they list the same one. The pin config. is the same, the plug fits good, it just doesn't come on. Maybe I got the unlucky bad board. This one will be getting sent back.

Anyway, thanks to this forum, I was able to get the oven going again. Thanks for everyones help!!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 05:13 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Nice job on the repair!



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