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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 3 4 |
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| LG 21760st | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 02:06 am |
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61st Post |
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Bratton Grasshopper
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For safety's sake do you test with the unit plugged in? Or power off? And which post is Scott's?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 02:19 am |
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62nd Post |
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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unplug the unit, disconnect the wires to the heater and OHM it..do the same with the controller or fuse. If both parts show continuity then you will need to ohm the wires to those 2 components individually from inside the freezer to plug on the board. If all that checks out then your board is bad.
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 03:06 am |
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63rd Post |
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clman Master Appliantologist 
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You can't just ohm out the defrost controller. Inside it is a thermal fuse and a thermistor. You can ohm out the fuse portion but the thermistor can read continuity / ohms but not be correct and be allowing the wrong voltage to go back to the board. You must refer to the service manual and manipulate the temperature of the thermistor and read the resistance at the given temperature. All that being said, again the simplest way to check defrost is to put the unit in test mode. It will bypass the controller thermistor and force the heater on. If it comes on your board heater relay, the controller fuse and the heater are good. That leaves the board logic or defrost controller thermistor at fault. And I recall reading that the controller has already been changed. So if the unit is still operating properly and heavy frost is not building up ( especially 1-2 weeks later ) then the defrost system is functioning correctly. That means the board is confused ( bad ). So if the heater comes on, the controller has been changed, and the unit is operating normally after 10+ days: The board is bad or there is a wiring fault.
____________________ 25 Years in the biz. 9 years LG authorized. |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 05:33 pm |
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64th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Bratton wrote:For safety's sake do you test with the unit plugged in? Or power off? And which post is Scott's? my mistake, the post i was reffering to was by brnttoast, not scott. you will want to test with the power off. the wires on the controller you need to check are the brown and blue. the orange wires you already confirmed are good when you tested them from the board.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 28th, 2010 11:04 pm |
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65th Post |
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BrntToast Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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you were correct both times, my name is scott 
____________________ The only stupid question is the one not asked hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here http://brnttoast.googlepages.com/home feel free to prvt msg frigidaire questions my way (i dont log in every day) |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 11:40 pm |
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66th Post |
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Bratton Grasshopper
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Ok. When I get into test mode on the display. The first read I get is 888 888. When I press and hold the express freezer key and the colder key of freezer I get a display of 222 222. I am assuming this is test mode 2 as the fan in the freezer comes on. When I push the express key and colder key again instead of going to test mode 3 it resets back to the default temps. Why is it not going into test mode 3? Also, after I exit test mode, unplug and replug the unit in so now it is @ the default temps again the fan is not on? Shouldn't it come on right away to cool the fridge compartment? And now that I think of it I never remember hearing the fan before! So could it also be a fan problem? Although it works in test mode. Last edited on Sun Oct 31st, 2010 12:03 am by Bratton |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 02:00 am |
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67th Post |
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Bratton Grasshopper
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Ok. Got into test mode 3.Don't know why it kept resetting to defaults. Heater unit DOES NOT HEAT UP AT ALL. This is a brand new assembly. As I stated before' also a new conductor/fuse. Could the board be so corrupt that it will not test correctly?
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| Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 07:01 am |
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68th Post |
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clman Master Appliantologist
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Yes the board could. I have seen it countless times. Place test leads in the two heater connectors from the board end or jam them into the connectors while they are still connected. Run test mode again. If 100-125vac never shows up your board is not outputting to the heater and must be replaced. You can, just for the sake of being doubly sure, check resistance on the heater. With the heater showing continuity or resistance and no voltage from the board the heater is good ( I know it's new but stuff happens ) and the board is bad. It voltage appears and the heater does not get hot ( it won't show continuity or resistance ) the heater is bad. If you want to go farther and be sure it's not in the cabinet wiring ( an extremely rare event ); if no voltage shows at the heater connectors locate the heater terminals on the board ( con3, term 1, brn to ground or to common: con1, term 3, bk ) ( the board will have def. htr. printed at the needed hot terminal ) and check for voltage there. If you have voltage you have a wiring problem ( double check the voltage at the heater just to be sure ) If you don't have voltage at the board it is bad.
____________________ 25 Years in the biz. 9 years LG authorized. |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 11:57 pm |
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69th Post |
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Bratton Grasshopper
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Got no reading testing the defroster from the main board. I did test from inside the freezer compartment. got a reading of 38.5 I believe. Did get a little shock when after I had one probe inserted into the defrost unit I touched the othe probe( I know not smart)! So I do think the defroster is good and the main board is not sending a signal to turn the heater on. The item # @ repair clinic is 1460997 is that the correct part. I took a pic of the main board and it looks identical to the one @ repair clinic. Hate to order the wrong part. Thanks in advance.
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| Posted: Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 12:34 am |
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70th Post |
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clman Master Appliantologist
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That is the repair clinic cross over part number from the LG part number so it should be correct. As far as the photo goes I'd have to have one in hand and it would still be hard to be certain by a photo. So many boards look the same. I'm sure it's corrcet. Last edited on Tue Nov 2nd, 2010 12:35 am by clman ____________________ 25 Years in the biz. 9 years LG authorized. |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 01:33 am |
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71st Post |
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Bratton Grasshopper
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OK, ordered the main board. It all looks fairly simple to replace. Any little tricks I should know of so that I don't damaage anything? Looks like unplug all the connections, take out old board. Any advice would be appreciated.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 11th, 2010 03:05 pm |
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72nd Post |
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clman Master Appliantologist
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No tricks. Pretty straight forward. Just don't flex the board too much when releasing it from it's holding tabs.
____________________ 25 Years in the biz. 9 years LG authorized. |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 29th, 2010 11:59 pm |
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73rd Post |
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Bratton Grasshopper
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Ok guru's. Kudos to all of you for your help. Finally got the error message to stop appearing on the display. Special thats to "clman" who really is a master appliantologist! Dude you had all the correct answers! You were the only guru to tell me to put the unit in TEST MODE! You are "THE MAN"! Wife is very happy to have only ONE fridge in the kitchen now! Makes the kithcen seem so much bigger now. Again thanks to all for your concern and expertise.
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