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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 05:11 am
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Bratton
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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 05:17 am
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Bratton
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I am not real good with the media part of this. Hope these pics help

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 05:55 pm
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denrayr
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those pics are great. it looks like the sealed system is working as it should. can you post a picture of the wiring diagram? at this point you need to test the heater and evaperator thermister circuits from the control board. if you post a diagram we can walk you through this test. if these parts test good, you will need to replace the main control board.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 08:56 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 10:04 pm
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Bratton
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Looks like someone has posted a wiring diagram from the service manual. Is that what you mean and want?

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 10:35 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Bratton wrote:
Looks like someone has posted a wiring diagram from the service manual.

Hmm, who is that someone? It's a bird! It's a plane! It's Super Reg!



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 01:15 am
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Bratton
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Thank you "Super Reg" Now Where is the MAIN BOARD? So you Guru"s can walk me through this testing from the main board?

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 01:17 am
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Bratton
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Also I'm SO GLAD I BOUGHT AN "LG" ...........NOT!!!!!!

And remember I am a Coca Cola delivery guy' not an appliance tech. Don't know a main board from a surfboard.

 

Last edited on Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 01:42 am by Bratton

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 03:50 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Bratton wrote: Also I'm SO GLAD I BOUGHT AN "LG" ...........NOT!!!!!!


any of the newer FL washers wouldn't be any easier ...

I could send the servicre manaul to you if that would help ..



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 04:57 am
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Bratton
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Thanks, I have a link that I downloaded, so I have the service manual. I haven't looked yet but I am guessing that the "main board" is in the back of the fridge? Have to remove a panel to access it? Hope it is easy. Although I have removed the freezer door and back  panel of the freezer so many times now, that I can do it in the dark!

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 05:07 am
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denrayr
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ok. unplug the refrigerator. locate and remove the square access panel on the back of the fridge. looking at the large control board behind the panel, locate and disconnect the wiring connectors labelled con1 and con3. set your meter to measure ohms. put one probe in the con3 brown wire and the other probe in the con1 blue wire and record the reading. next locate and disconnect con5 from the board. using the meter set to read ohms again measure between the two orange wires. reconnect all connectors, reinstall the access panel, and plug in the refrigerator. post the readings here on the forum and we can help you determine the cause of your defrost problem.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 05:41 pm
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Bratton
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Ok, before I get started. The  meter I am using is exactly like the one pictured on page 1 of this post. It has like 7 different settings. What setting should it be on for ohms?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 05:53 pm
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denrayr
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200 ohms scale between brown and blue. 200k between the orange wires.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 06:27 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/92000-92999/92020.pdf



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 07:44 pm
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Bratton
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There is no reading at all from the con 1 to the con 3. Con 5 test reading was 12.8 I am guessing it is the main circuit board?

Last edited on Tue Oct 26th, 2010 02:08 am by Bratton

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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 01:43 am
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Bratton
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With no reading on con 1 to con 3 Is this  main circuit board issue?

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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 02:00 am
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BrntToast
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if there is no reading between the brown and blue you have either an open thermal fuse or bad defrost heater



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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 02:06 am
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BrntToast
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while testing at the board did you happen to notice if your board has a small button labeled  "test"   ?

 



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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 05:05 am
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clman
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The fzr. thermistor ( temp. sensor ) will not deliver a dh code. The heater, defrost controller and computer will. If the evaporator fan motor ( freezer fan ) were at fault it would deliver a FF code. If you have changed the defrost controller ( what I believe you are calling a "conductor" ) ( and is also known as a fuse ) and are sure that the defrost heater element is good the main pcb ( computer ) is not recognizing that the problem it sensed is solved or there is a wiring fault in the unit cabinet. I assume you disconnected the power to replace the d.controller. So that would have cleared the code. When the power is disconnected all codes are cleared. It would take several hours for the dh code to reappear. The coil temp. would have to lower, frost would began to build up on the coil and when the controller senses that it is time to go into defrost, defrost would start. When the sensor does not see the temp rise as the heater warms things up it would show the dh code. Or if the temp does not rise as the sensor expects it to, due to a faulty heater, wiring or pcb it will generate the code. So you either did not clear the original code by powering the unit off, you have a bad m.pcb or a wiring fault in the cabinet. My bet is the m.pcb. The simplest way to check the heater is to put the unit in test mode and check that the heater heats up. It will get VERY hot. If it just gets warm you would not achieve full defrost and would be left with frost across the top of the coil. The service manual will tell you how to enter into and cycle through the test mode from the display panel. Also the "test" button on the m.pcb will achieve the same effect ( if there is one )



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 Posted: Wed Oct 27th, 2010 08:06 pm
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denrayr
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Bratton wrote:
There is no reading at all from the con 1 to the con 3. Con 5 test reading was 12.8 I am guessing it is the main circuit board?


scott is correct, either the heater or the defrost controller is bad. It could also be the wiring in the cabinet, but that is not very likely. the next step is to get inside the freezer and test the 2 wires going to the heater, then test both sets of wires in the defrost controller.



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