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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Profile Refrigerator PSS26NGSA Dispenser Display Dead

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GE Profile Refrigerator PSS26NGSA Dispenser Display Dead  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 10:18 pm
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daverph
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Dispenser was working intermittently, then went dark. Found info here related to the connector at the bottom of the freezer door. Connector (3 wire black/blue/white connected to black/blue/red from underneath freezer) was a little loose, no visible corrosion, jiggling it returned power and function so I taped it together tighter. Made the mistake of saying out loud to my wife "that was easy", and started thinking about making another donation to the beer fund here. When I put the connector back underneath and got the grille ready to put on, saw that power (to dispenser panel) and function was gone. Pulled the connector out again, power comes back.

Took connector out of the loop, spliced the wires directly to each other, secured them with crimper, power is on. Put back under freezer, power goes off again. This time took the 4 prong straight connector that had the black/blue/red wires out of the loop, spliced, crimped. Getting 13.6v at both spliced connections at bottom of freezer, but no power or function at display. Get no DC voltage at connectors to dispenser control board. Above dispenser area there is a blue plastic plug with blue, black, red, white, gray wires. White & red join in a sleeve and go to power at J4.

Diagnostic tests 03 and 04 failed. System reset did not help. Don't know where the power is disappearing to on the way from the bottom of the freezer door to the dispenser area. Haven't found the trick to getting the door handle off to take the exterior skin off.

Suggestions? This fridge has previously had main muthaboard replaced ( http://applianceguru.com/forum1/13243.html ), following the arctica and profile muthaboard flowchart now seems to indicate the muthaboard again, but what about the wiring that goes up the door? Without knowing what else is behind the door skin, can I assume that the black/blue/white wires that go up are the same ones that come out in the dispenser area, and test the continuity? Or does this indicate bad muthaboard and just call the 800-694-8477 again.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 18th, 2010 11:05 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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31-9072 link PM'd



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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 07:35 pm
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daverph
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Thanks for the link, it seems they changed the door handle since 2001, the one I have has a plastic lever underneath the upper side of the handle, but I can't see what kind of driver it takes to loosen. Any help here would be appreciated.

Called GE customer service, they told me there is a $100 labor fee to get the main board replaced now, so I went ahead and scheduled an appointment since there was no other indication from here where to go next. Before he came out I checked the FF and FZ temperature settings to see if they worked, temperatures were displayed but could not raise or lower temps. This morning a serviceman came, replaced the main board with WR55X10942. After replacing the board, the dispenser still did not work, and now the interior temp display panel was dark, and not responding to buttons. He got another main board, replaced it, same result, no dispenser and no temp display.He suggests all 3 boards must be bad, I suggest just for kicks, put the original board in cause the temp display was at least lit up before. He does, no dispenser function but temp display returns and now responds to buttons to set temps. He suggests getting a new dispenser board as he doesn't have one with him (don't know why I bothered to tell customer service that the dispenser board was not working when I called), tells me to ask customer service to send one out.

When he left, I pull the original board, replace it with one of the two new boards he left behind, plug it in, now I have no dispenser still but the temp display is lit and works. Haven't tried the other board yet. Did a diagnostic test 03 and 04 still failed both. Looking at the instructions for the replacement board, it says to eliminate thermistor wire in pin 2 of J1 connector in encoder models with certain serial number prefixes, where do I find the prefixes on my fridge? The new boards are different from the old by having a 4 pin connector at location J14, but I don't have any connectors to hook up to that AFAIK.

Before I make the call, are there any other suggestions? I haven't tested the voltage on the dispenser connections yet with the new board in place, but since I'm still getting communication failures on the diagnostics, I doubt there will be any difference there.

Many thanks in advance...

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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 07:43 pm
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daverph wrote:  it says to eliminate thermistor wire in pin 2 of J1 connector in encoder models with certain serial number 

STEP 2– ELIMINATE THERMISTOR WIRE IN PIN 2 OF J1 CONNECTOR

NOTE: This step is ONLY applicable for the following models:

All BOTTOM FREEZER models

ENCODER models with the following serial number prefixes: 

 

Yours is neither a Bottom Freezer Model, nor an Encoder Model

Skip Step 2



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 Posted: Wed Oct 20th, 2010 08:47 pm
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daverph
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Thanks for the clarification, just wanted to make sure I had the right connections.

I tested the continuity of the wiring from the main control board to the dispenser connector, blue and black are both fine, red is not. Red is fine from main board to bottom of freezer door, bad from the bottom of the freezer to the dispenser. In the dispenser area, I now see that the white wire that joins to a thicker red wire is white with a red stripe, at the bottom of the freezer door it is white with possibly some specks of gray.

The red and gray wires coming down from the dispenser area are for some type of heater that doesn't appear in the service manual from 2001. Does anyone know what I need to do next or else know:

What the white wire from the bottom of the freezer door connects to, that has the white/red stripe wire coming from it and to the dispenser board connector? I'm losing power somewhere along this path...

Do I need to to get behind the exterior skin of the freezer door to get at whatever it is?

How to remove the blue soft plastic plug that passes the wiring into the dispenser board area?

I'll be happy to post some pictures if it would make this easier to understand.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 12:21 am
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daverph
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Still looking for some help here. I can't think of anything but a broken or corroded wire inside the freezer door.

Is there a way to get inside through the inside ice chute that goes down to the dispenser flap?

Doesn't seem like a way to get the dispenser recess out. Anyone ever cut a hole in the recess to get at the wires?

The fridge is black and the exterior looks like it was stamped and crimped into place. Doesn't look like the easy way in.

How about a way to get the blue plastic/rubber plug with the wires coming down, pliers don't seem to have any effect, don't want to cut it off not knowing if it will even help to fish the broken wire out.

The inside plastic part of the door seems securely glued, don't know what is between the inner and outer parts of the door, or if there'd be any access to the wire from the inside.

Don't see replacement doors in the parts list, and based on GE's pricing for little things, not sure I'd want to see the price.

Anybody been there, done that? Help me, Samurai Appliance Repair Man or Jedi Appliance Guy, you're my only hope...

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 04:22 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Only thing I can suggest is to try a modification of Sublime Master appl.tech's technique for replacing the foamed-tubing, adapting it for the wiring.

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/10/02/repairing-a-water-tube-embedded-inside-the-freezer-door-foam-insulation-of-a-ge-refrigerator/

Either that or buy a whole new door. :(



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 05:39 pm
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Here is the way I replaced a wire harness on a Frigidare freezer..


.....I


used 1/4 copper tubing...


.......It


took a couple of tries, this was the full lenghth of the door.....


 


once I got the tubing at both ends I pulled a new wire harness thru, Then reconnect wires


 


Radio shack has wire harness, do not know your wire sizes....keep us posted...

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 10:11 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Great photos, CTG!



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 07:42 pm
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daverph
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Thanks for the replies & the help

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 01:29 am
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daverph
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The new door fixed the problem, even using the old muthaboard and dispenser. An autopsy on the old door is planned for the near future, will post some pictures later.

GE wouldn't do anything to replace the door, am I wrong in thinking that a wire inside a door should not break during the expected lifetime of a fridge? Especially since there seems to be a corrosion problem that develops on the connector at the bottom of the freezer door, wouldn't whatever design defect that caused that be possibly implicated in a broken wire?

GE has lost me as a customer forever, not just over this but also because of the problem I had finding out how to remove the door handle. None of their online literature or manuals shows how to do this. (I'll post pictures of that too when I post the autopsy results, basically there is a plastic tab in the upper part of the handle that you push toward the door, then slide the handle up). This and other appliance forums were also devoid of information. I called the GE "Answer Center" to find out what to do. Their "Answer" was "we don't supply any technical information over the phone, but we'd be glad to schedule a service call for $100". What I used to love about GE was their phone support. I know in the past I've held a phone up to a noisy GE dryer and the support person was able to tell me what part needed to be replaced and I ordered from them too. Now with a kitchen makeover planned for 2011 and new washer/dryer needed before that, I'm sure there won't be any GE products in my future.

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