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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE PFS22SISBSS Defrost issues |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| GE PFS22SISBSS Defrost issues | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 03:15 am |
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1st Post |
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daddi-o Grasshopper
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I am not worthy to post, having only suffered since mid July- but I cannot find enlightenment, even with an offering to the Sears repair devils. My GE was afflicted with the plummeting freezer temp (set 0, act -5 and dropping) and climbing fridge temp (set 37, 50 and climbinh) malaise. Opening the freezer backpanel revealed more ice than the top of Sunapee in February. Defrosting with hair dryer worked a few times, but within a few days the telltale ice fuzzies returned. In desperation with small children opening the door frequently in humid August, my fingers dialed 1-800-GECARES although my mind knew it was a lie. Since GE cared only to send someone a week from then, while Sears dispatched help overnight, I took solace in their diagnosis- "Defrost heater and circuit must be good, must be muthaboard". Helpful souls at http://www.fixyourboard.com dispatched a rebuilt one, fridge recovered overnight, left for a week of vaca and returned with no problems. Then- freezer drops, fridge climbs again... folks @ fixyourboard tell me "yup, this board's fine. What did you say the issue was?" After tonight's manual defrost, I unplugged 2-pin connector in fridge, and checked resistance of thermodisc and heater in series- 20 ohms. Heated thermodisc to at least 100F with hairdryer, and it stayed at 20ohms. I then discovered the false god of "GE diagnostics" pages- but they don't work with my nifty 2-digit per section temp display and appear to be for older Profile series. for perspective on what comes next- during this, I considered the recent failure "temporary duty" top door latches on this SxS fridge failed after 3 years of ownership. I thought too much moisture might be getting in, and did not desire to pay $200+ per door on door seal kits. So bungee cord off my lobster trap sideline is now used at the top of the doors to self-close the last few inches, but allows the doors to remain open beyond 90 degrees with no force. So- to the question- can I get into diagnostics on this model to do things like: 1. self-check the thermistors, esp evap thermistor, to see if that's bad? 2. force defrost cycle without jumpering at board (small kitchen, can't easily get to muthaboard and back of freezer cab w/out moving fridge in and out) 3. force damper cycle, in case that's goofy and causing this ( I realized tonight that not only did I have to melt frost off the coil, but also out of the fridge air return duct opening hidden behind it) Although I am unworthy, I would appreciate any scraps of enlightenment for continuing diagnosis without inviting tardy, evil corporate thieves back into my abode.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 04:11 am |
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2nd Post |
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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do you happen to remember the temp value that was printed on the thermo-disk (fuse) by chance? Will have to do some digging as far as the diagnostic mode with your controls...don't think we have literature on this model. you cannot force the defrost via the controls. As long as the evaporator was clogged from top to bottom your evap. thermistor would have to be bad. The other components in the defrost system have already been replaced or checked. Sears should have changed it while they were in there. I still would like to know the value of that thermo-disk, on most GE's its 140F. but has a different part # than yours.
____________________ If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/ |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 07:11 am |
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3rd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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does your Control look anything like this ? 
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 12:08 pm |
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4th Post |
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daddi-o Grasshopper
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Thanx for the advice- I'll get a thermistor on order- I assume that all 3 on this model are the same. As for the thermodisc, I'll send P/N, temp setting, and any other info that I see when I get in there for the next defrost/thermistor replacement. That image isn't it, and I can't figure out how to upload an image. Here's the buttons/controls from L to R: Water filter reset button and LED indicator Colder/warmer buttons, then a 3-digit LED display for the freezer Colder/warmer buttons, then a 3-digit LED display for the fridge a Turbocool button and LED indicator Thanks again!
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 01:16 pm |
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5th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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daddi-o wrote: ..I then discovered the false god of "GE diagnostics" pages- but they don't work with my nifty 2-digit per section temp display which "GE diagnostics" pages would that be ? this one ? which didn't work ? Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing both the freezer temperature (COLDER and WARMER) pads and the refrigerator temperature (COLDER and WARMER) pads simultaneously. Note: All four pads must be held for approximately 3 seconds. Blinking "0's" in both displays indicate the refrigerator has entered the test mode.
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 02:51 pm |
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6th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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another vote for a bad thermistor
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2010 02:56 pm |
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7th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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denrayr wrote: another vote for a bad thermistor http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/06/30/ge-profile-and-arctica-refrigerators-upgraded-thermistors/
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2010 03:54 am |
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8th Post |
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daddi-o Grasshopper
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Once I did the 4-finger trigger, I was able to get into iagnostic mode- my bad!! Entering 0 7 triggered a check of the thermistors. It cycled through 5 displays (I assume 1 for each of the max 5 thermistors that this controls)- left right what I think this means from earlier single digit model dx 1 P Fresh Food top thermistor Pass 2 0 Fresh Food bottom thermistor fail 3 P quick cool thermistor pass 4 P evaporator thermistor pass 5 0 Freezer thermistor fail According to my schematic, my model only has three thermistors. I have one on order, and will replace the freezer one when it gets here, as I suspect that's it... thanks to all for help, and I hope to close this out early next week...
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| Posted: Sat Oct 2nd, 2010 07:44 pm |
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9th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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replace the evaporator thermistor, not the freezer thermistor
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 04:04 am |
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10th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Have a look at this page and compare your thermistors with the ones shown on this page. If you have the old-style thermistors then you should go ahead and replace all of them. http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/06/30/ge-profile-and-arctica-refrigerators-upgraded-thermistors/
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2010 02:17 am |
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11th Post |
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daddi-o Grasshopper
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Thanks to all for the help! I got my hands on two new thermistors, and went ahead and replaced both the evaporator and freezer thermistors while I was in there. I'd ordinarily do one at a time so I'd have a good idea of which it REALLY was, but figured at $12 ea. I no longer cared as much for the exact answer as I did about fixing it. The self-dx test on the termisotrs produced the same results after as before- 2 out of 5 showed as "failed"- but since the schematic only shows three and these likely weren't hard failures, who knows? I did initiate a defrosot cycle today using the dx codes, and did hear the hiss of the heater melting ice. So- good so far, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed until Friday. I hope to close out the topic then as another bad t-ster then, and make good on my ritual beer offering...
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| Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 12:23 am |
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12th Post |
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daddi-o Grasshopper
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It's been a week, and I am confident enough to declare it a bad thermistor. Total useful cost: $22 for two new thermistors; total actual cost $232 and a month for the thermistors, a Sears service call with an inaccurate diagnosis, and a board checkout by fixyourboard.com. Oh yeah- and a donation to those who helped me diagnose. Thanks, guys!
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| Posted: Tue Oct 12th, 2010 12:48 am |
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13th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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 For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://apprentice.applianceguru.com
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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