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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Profile Refridge TPX24 BR BB BB |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3 |
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| GE Profile Refridge TPX24 BR BB BB | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 04:40 am |
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21st Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Make sure the icemaker mold is empty since that's the point of my test.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 07:26 pm |
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22nd Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/froggy47/Freezer%20pics/IMG_1612.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/froggy47/Freezer%20pics/IMG_1613.jpg Pictures taken 24 hours after water shutoff. I have accomplished ZERO so far. I did a very close examination of the gasket & how it is constructed. The gasket has 45 degree angle butt seams on all 4 corners. The butt seam where the ice build up is occuring is of very poor quality. As I look at it closely it is not a smooth seal where it contacts the flat white hard surface of the freezer. It has an unevenness to it and a lump where the plastic is glued or heat welded. I will try a close up pic, but I'm not that good at the closeup's The first picture is the one that I installed & shows that the sealing ridge is much smaller than the original design & also shows the more narrow width and a "flap" to make it look as big as the original. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/froggy47/Freezer%20pics/IMG_1614.jpg The next pic is of the refrigerator side - an original 12 year old gasket & shows that the sealing ridge is much bigger & the gasket is "full width" and the 45 degree butt seam is much nicer & higher quality & accurate compared to the new one on the freezer side. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/froggy47/Freezer%20pics/IMG_1615.jpg Do you think there could be an air leak at the bad corner of the new gasket? I have an IR thermometer & will try taking some temps around the outside of the gasket. It's a brand new gasket & I took a lot of care installing it & I think I did a very good job getting it on square & flat. It could be a bad quality gasket from the manufacturer. The other 3 corners are a little "better", but non of the corners on the replacement gasket are as good (of quality) as the original that is still on the refridge side. Thanks!
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| Posted: Sun Oct 3rd, 2010 07:43 pm |
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23rd Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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There is a vent space at the top of the unit & warm air circulates out from there and passes over the gasket (top parts of the gaskets). I don't think I can draw any conclusion on the temps. They were about 2 degrees to 2.5 degrees cooler over the section where the poorly made 45 degree angle seam is located. Is there a way to "build up" the seal there or to adjust the door to make it press harder against the gasket? I could also take a dremel (lightly) to that seam & see if I can "clean it up" to seal better? The owners manual indicates an adjustment to be made on the refridge side only for making the door heights the same. It says nothing about the freezer side.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2010 04:51 pm |
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24th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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Any ideas? Thanks.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2010 08:20 am |
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25th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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it looks like the fridge is circulating humid air. make sure all food containers are sealed. an open container can add extra humidity to the refrigerator. check from the rear compartment all of the entry points into the unit (water lines, wire harness, refrigeration lines) to make sure they are sealed. If this all looks ok check the evaperator to make sure the foam seals on either side of it are intact. if these seals fail, humid air will bypass the evaperator and freeze to the cold upper compartment. next you should install the evaperator cover with one or two screws (just enough to hold it in place) and initiate a defrost cycle by rotating the defrost timer very slowly until it clicks. make sure the fan and compressor shut off during defrost. time the defrost cycle to see how long it is and check the evaperator after the cycle. the evaperator should be dry, and if moisture is still dripping the timer isnt on long enough or cycling often enough.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2010 09:02 pm |
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26th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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Can you help me figure out where the evaporator is? Can I find it if I take off the back panel)s)? What does it look like? I will take a pic of it & post if I can (if it's not too far inside) Thank you.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2010 09:04 pm |
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27th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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We keep a Britta water container in the fridge side & it does have a cover on it, but still, I wonder if it's the problem?
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| Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2010 10:33 pm |
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28th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the evaperator is behind the lower back panel in the freezer. Like i said in my post, i would check the penetration points into the cabinet first. they use a mastic to seal these points that will sometimes sag out of place. If the water container has a cover it should be fine.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2010 01:27 am |
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29th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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I will ck the cabinet, what kind of sealer do you use if I find a void?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2010 01:29 am |
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30th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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There is some white marine adhesive I used in a small water feature (little pond thing) that works in a wet environment.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2010 08:49 pm |
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31st Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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Here is a pic of the defrost part. I twisted the "dial" and it clicked on. t glowed red about 15 min. The compressor was off, melting happened & drips down into a black plastic tray. After about 15 min the unit went back to normal running. I don't have a way of knowing if the defrost comes on BY ITSEF on a timer. I did replace the timer with a new one about a year ago when I thought that was the problem. Is there any way to figure out if the defrost timer IS cycling as it should? http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/froggy47/Freezer%20pics/IMG_1617.jpg
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| Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2010 08:50 pm |
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32nd Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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I will ck the foam seal at the evap later & post.
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| Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2010 09:50 pm |
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33rd Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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15 minutes is kind of short. the defrost cycle is just a small section so its possible you advanced it to the middle of the cycle. Let the fridge run for a day to build up more frost and using a marker make a mark on the timer at the point where it defrosts. turn it to just before that point and wait for it to advance there on its own and time the cycle again. its important to look at the coils right after the cycle to verify they are dry.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 12:09 am |
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34th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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Thanks, I was VERY careful to turn it just till the big click (relay?) but I am guessing sort of on the 15 min. But it was not more than 22-24 min for sure. How many times a day/week is the defrost supposed to run? Maybe I got a bad timer or the wrong one?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 12:41 am |
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35th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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froggy47 wrote: ... How many times a day/week is the defrost supposed to run? usually every 6 or 8 hrs (depending on Timer) for up to 25 minutes, determined (terminated) by when the Defrost Thermostat gets warm enough from the Defrost Heater
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 02:40 am |
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36th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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Does the timer rotate very slowly? If I put a little mark on it & looked every hour I should see the mark move, yes?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 02:52 am |
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37th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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I don't think it is running very often, because when I ran it (forced) it cleared the ice pretty quick. Does anyone on the forum know the correct timer & the part number / codes that might be seen on the part so I can pull it & check it?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 03:02 am |
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38th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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froggy47 wrote: Does the timer rotate very slowly? one rotataion every 6 or 8 hours .. I still think it's a humid-air issue...
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 03:03 am |
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39th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Timer does rotate very slowly, it's imperceptible. How's the condensate drain? Try pouring some water down the condensate drain to see how fast it drains. I wondering if the condensate is handing around too long and getting sucked up by the evap fan after defrost. If that looks good, replace the defrost timer and defrost tstat. Defrsot timer==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Timer/2578?modelNumber=TPX24BRBBBB Defrost tsta==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Thermostat/2387?modelNumber=TPX24BRBBBB
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 8th, 2010 03:06 am |
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40th Post |
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froggy47 Grasshopper
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Maybe the runoff from the defrost cycling is not draining & that water just gets "sucked" back into the fridge. Can you see underneath where the runoff goes if you pull the fridge out & pull the back panel or is it all enclosed? I could pour some water into the black plastic drip tray below the defrost grid & see where it goes.
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