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GE Electric Range Problem  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Sep 3rd, 2010 07:06 pm
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dancwagner
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Hello,

I recently started having difficulties with my GE electric range, model #JBP35EOH1BB. About a month or so ago, I was awoken in the middle of the night by a persistent beeping from the range. Half asleep, I pressed buttons on the display until the beeping stopped. It gave me an error code which I stupidly neglected to write down and was unable to remember the next morning.

A few weeks later, the clock on the range started acting up. It would randomly reset and just keep blinking. Then, if you turned on the oven, the clock would reset and keep the oven from coming on until you turned the clock off. So I turned the clock off and the oven worked fine for about a week.

Now, if you hit the bake or broil buttons, the display just starts flashing and you can hear a persistent clicking noise that keeps going until you turn the oven off. As far as I can tell, the oven is not heating at all. Oddly enough, I tried turning the clock back on and it seems to be working fine.

The burners themselves seem to be working fine. I checked power coming in to the range with a voltmeter and nothing seems out of the ordinary. This leads me to believe that the problem is with the electronic clock board. I am unsure as to how old the range is as it came with the house.

Sorry if this ended up being a bit long winded  or is posted incorrectly as I am new to the forums here. Has anyone out there ran into similar problems with their range and have a suggested fix?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 3rd, 2010 08:06 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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You need a new Control


Control Link




The new control doesn't come with  the overlay. If your really careful when you remove off the old control you can reuse it. I suggest heating it up with a hair dryer as you remove it slowly. Anew overlay costs about as much as the control. Here's a link if you need it.


Overlay Link




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 Posted: Sat Sep 4th, 2010 02:45 pm
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dancwagner
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Thanks for the quick reply! I have a new board on order so hopefully it goes smoothly.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 4th, 2010 04:14 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Did you try and remove the overlay off your old control first?



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 Posted: Fri Sep 10th, 2010 11:45 pm
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dancwagner
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Yes, getting the overlay off the old one and installing the new board was very easy. Unfortunately, after doing this it seems like the problem is still there. Upon hitting 'Bake', the display continues to flash and there is a repetitive clicking sound. Any further advice?

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 12:01 am
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Is the clicking sound coming from the control?

Is the display flashing a code or is the time flashing?



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 12:12 am
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dancwagner
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it sounds like its coming from the control but its hard to verify. it is not displaying any error code,  the display is just flashing. For instance, hitting 'bake' and it is 'pre-heat' that is flashing, hit 'broil' and it is 'hi' that is flashing. Thanks,

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 12:36 am
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This clock doesn't appear to have a knob that you turn for the oven is that correct? On most GE Range controls a flashing "preheat" when oven temp is set means there is an oven sensor circuit problem.

Most likely the sensor, but I have never seen a bad sensor cause the control relays to click constantly. The oven sensor is mounted to the inside of the oven on the back wall and is normally attached with (2) 1/4" screws. Don't remove them yet. The sensor can be 3" to 5" long and the diameter of a pencil or smaller.

Unplug the range

If you remove the back cover off the range you will see where the sensor wired come through the back wall of the stove. There should be a connector there that you can disconnect and take an OHM reading of the sensor.

Some GE's have 1100 ohm sensors and some have 1600 ohm sensors. Have your meter set to the 1K scale and post your findings



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 01:23 am
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dancwagner
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sorry for the delay. i had a hard time trying to disconnect it from the back and ended up having to remove the top element and get to it from inside the oven. on getting it out, the white cloth wiring cover was dark brown closest to the sensor but am unsure if that is just due to proximity to the oven.  the reading i get when hooking it up to my multimeter is 1.095k. thanks,

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 01:27 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Read each sensor wire to the sensor body and see if you get continuity.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 01:42 am
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dancwagner
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ok, tested for continuity and both sides seem good.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 04:49 pm
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Shouldn't have continuity to the sensor body...did you ?



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 07:29 pm
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dancwagner
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When I tested the leads, there was no resistance between them and the sensor body. I don't have much experience with using dmms but I tried it with two different ones and got the same results each time. Thanks,

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 08:34 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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make sure that the clean latch is all the way to the left. Also, did you notice the tech. sheet inside the control panel when you were changing the clock? if not there remove the storage drawer and and check for it attached to the frame...break down shows it in the control panel.




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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 09:01 pm
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dancwagner wrote: When I tested the leads, there was no resistance between them and the sensor body...
test on the highest OHM range ... 20 Meg OHMs



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 09:51 pm
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dancwagner
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ok, i retrieved the tech sheet. the door latch is all the way to the left but it feels like there is some play to it still. i tried testing on all the different ohm settings and still didnt get any readings between either lead and the body.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 10:10 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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The tech sheet didn't elaborate on a flashing "preheat"?



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 10:17 pm
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dancwagner
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no, the only troubleshooting it had was on fault codes and i do not have one of those to go by. thanks,

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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 10:29 pm
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If you open the oven door and look at the latch and operate the handle does the latch actually retract when you move the handle to the left?



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 Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 11:03 pm
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dancwagner
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yes, the latch moves freely and retracts when moved to the left. thanks,

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