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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > MAYTAG MGR5710ADW Gas Range wont turn on

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MAYTAG MGR5710ADW Gas Range wont turn on  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 09:50 pm
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Explorer63
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I just changed the oven igniter in my MAYTAG model MGR5710ADW Gas Range thinking that was my problem:(. Oven still wont turn on what would I check next to try and find the problem? The stove top and broiler work fine!

Thanks Allen

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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 10:31 pm
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Few questions budro.

 

Does the igniter ever glow for bake? 

When you program the unit to bake 350, does the preheat light stay on, or does it go off within a few seconds.

When you program the unit for bake 350, do you hear a CLICK of a relay closing a second or two later, or is all quite?

Third, do you have a meter if need be to do a voltage test or two?



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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 10:36 pm
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Explorer63
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When I turn on the oven voltage to the new igniter is only 2.2 volts no wonder it is not lighting. what would cause this problem

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 Posted: Thu Aug 26th, 2010 10:39 pm
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I turn it on the pre heat light turns on and stays on. I also hear the relay click one or two seconds when I turn on the oven.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 27th, 2010 02:25 am
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The fact that your pre-heat light stays on indicates the unit is calling for heat, which eliminates your sensor as the issue.  We have to see if you are getting power out of your clock to feed the igniter.  Do you have a volt meter to do a check or two to confirm the bad clock asm.?



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 Posted: Fri Aug 27th, 2010 02:39 am
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yes I have a volt meter

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 Posted: Fri Aug 27th, 2010 05:10 pm
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Access the back of your clock by removing the back of the control panel.  Once you have it accessed, you will want to check for 120VAC between the L1 (black wire) terminal and the Bake (red wire) terminal.  In a time of day mode, no bake selected you should read approximately 120VAC between those two points if all is good in the circuit (safety valve, wires, igniter, connections, etc).  Then program the clock for bake, 400 and continue to monitor the voltage.  If after you hear the relay click, your voltage is still 120VAC between those two points, your relay is not closing and you will need a new clock asm.

Part link 

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-W10162787+-%3d%3di1373136&PartID=1373136

Last edited on Fri Aug 27th, 2010 05:11 pm by Trying to help



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 Posted: Fri Aug 27th, 2010 06:47 pm
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It reads 12 to 13 volts for the two wires. When I put it on bake it drops to zero.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 27th, 2010 07:01 pm
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 Posted: Sat Aug 28th, 2010 05:25 pm
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It reads 12 to 13 volts for the two wires. When I put it on bake it drops to zero.

Sounds like your neutral is dropping out if you did your test correctly.  Is the igniter in the unit the new one or the old one?  You should of read 120VAC from L1 to bake in the time of day mode.  We know the L1 is there because it is the same feed for your display, your neutral potential is coming from the terminal block, to and through the safety valve, to and through the igniter and up to the bake terminal in a time of day mode.  To verify your meter works, check for 120VAC from the Black L1 terminal on the clock to the White N (neutral) wire on the clock. 

You will see on Reg's diagram how this is routed.  There is a quick disconnect halfway between clock and igniter.  Make sure you have no loose connections.  Then you will want to ohm the igniter and safety valve.  The valve is an ohm or less. Pull the wires off and ohm that.   Your igniter is any where from 300-500 ohms on the average.  Check that.  Make sure you are ohming the components with the wires off.  Also verify you do not have reverse polarity.  for that, set your meter to 120VAC scale and go from the L1 terminal on your clock to ground.  You should have 120VAC.  If all your ohms checks were fine, after you prove your correct polarity, enter bake 400 and wait till the relay clicks.  Once it does, try from the Bake terminal to chassis ground, if you have voltage there, go to the red wire on the igniter plug that is coming from the clock and go from it to chassis ground, if you have there, plug it back in and then go from the red wire on the safety valve to the white wire on the valve looking for 120VAC with the wires still on the valve..  If you have it there, your valve is bad.  



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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 04:53 pm
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The igniter is the new one. All connections are good.On the dual valve the brioler side reads 1 ohm and the oven side I get no reading at all my fluke 322 meter reads OL (with all wires off it the valve)
My ignitor read 160 ohms. With it in bake 400 bake terminal to chassis ground 120v, Bake wire to chassis grnd 120v, red wire to white wire on valve 120v with wires still on. So If I did the test right the valve is bad correct. Going to order it tonight thanks :)

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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 05:25 pm
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Explorer63 wrote: On the dual valve the brioler side reads 1 ohm
good

Explorer63 wrote: ... and the oven side I get no reading at all my fluke 322 meter reads OL
bad


 

 



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