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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Amana Fridge SBIE20TPSW |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Amana Fridge SBIE20TPSW | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 06:37 pm |
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1st Post |
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hockyhed Grasshopper 
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I've been dealing with a defrost issue for some time now. I'm tired of manually defrosting this biiatch every 2 weeks. While it's brought me closer to my heat gun over several drinks, it's time to fix. My fridge has an adaptive defrost system. I blindly replaced the thermostat and tested continuity on the heater element (good). Last night I started taking readings on the high voltage board (integrated defrost circuit) and everything seemed fine according to mfr documents found via this board. I disconnected the heater element and forced a defrost cycle according to documentation. Took a voltage reading of the incoming wires and found the element is being supplied with 120V, but is not heating. I'm perplexed, if the heater was bad, it should be open right? Someone mentioned that the heater could have a short to ground, I'll test this tonight, but I'd love to hear other ideas or suggestions.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 07:33 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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hockyhed wrote: ... I disconnected the heater element and forced a defrost cycle according to documentation. Took a voltage reading of the incoming wires and found the element is being supplied with 120V, but is not heating. why would you disconnect the Defrost Heater if you were going to do a forced Defrost ? ? ? Voltage measurements should be tested with devices connected. Someone mentioned that the heater could have a short to ground, Defrost Heaters wouldn't normally have a short to ground.
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 08:24 pm |
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3rd Post |
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hockyhed Grasshopper
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I did that while testing continuity of the heater element. I agree with you, but I wanted to make sure the element was getting power. I suppose I could have just as easily tested it across the circuit board. Any ideas if the longshot theory (short) doesn't prove out? Thanks for the quick reply!
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 09:18 pm |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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it wouldn't (normally) have a short.. did you test the voltage across the Defrost Heater while connected ?
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 09:20 pm |
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5th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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hockyhed wrote:
You're thinking of dryer heating elements-- common affliction there. Not with refrigerator defrost heaters-- they'll simply open (burn out) when they go bad.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 09:25 pm |
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6th Post |
jkirksey1889
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Easy answer. If a 120v heater is getting 120v and not heating then it's a bad heater. It is possible you're reading 120v with the heater disconnected but you need to read 120v with the heater connected. If you are reading 120v with the heater connected just replace the heater if it isn't getting hot. Sometimes it's best to not over think the problem.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 09:28 pm |
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7th Post |
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hockyhed Grasshopper
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You reminded me that I didn't check voltages with the heater connected. Good point, I will tonight.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 20th, 2010 09:47 pm |
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8th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... Voltage measurements should be tested with devices connected...
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 03:22 am |
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9th Post |
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hockyhed Grasshopper
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So I tested the voltage at the circuit board during a 'forced defrost' and get nothing (E9 & E6). I suppose this would suggest a faulty board? Likely relay? Thanks for everyone's help.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 21st, 2010 01:15 pm |
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10th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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could be one of these: Defrost Thermostat High Voltage Board (or Relay D1) Electronic Controller (output Pin 6 that controls the D1 Relay)
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 3rd, 2010 02:26 pm |
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11th Post |
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hockyhed Grasshopper
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After a needed vacation and another manual defrost, I'm back to chasing this problem. The defrost thermostat is closed. Leads me to either the relay or ECU. What is the best way to know if the relay is getting the correct signal or any from Pin 6? Should I be looking for a low voltage read of -24v (defrost cycle ON)? Do you mean pin 6 on the 12 pin connector (connected to high voltage board) or pin 6 on the actual ECU? Thanks!
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| Posted: Fri Sep 3rd, 2010 04:20 pm |
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12th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: Electronic Controller (output Pin 6 that controls the D1 Relay) Electronic Controller Pin 6 connects to High Voltage Board pin 3 SBIE20TPW Tech Sheet
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2010 03:09 am |
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13th Post |
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hockyhed Grasshopper
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Confirmed the ECU was supplying the correct signal to the HV board. Bullseye placed squarely over the relay D1. Relay D1 is an Omron G4S-114P-US 24VDC 10A.. and it's discontinued! After a few days of trying to track one down online (many suppliers won't ship just one), I called Omron and asked for a cross reference. The exact match is an Omron G5LE-14-DC24. Digikey delivered the relay today and like a little kid on Dyngus Day, I couldn't wait to desolder the old b!@ch. I just downed two beers admiring the healthy glow of my defroster  . THANK YOU to everyone that replied, but a special thanks to RegUS. That last reply was golden. The beer fund just grew a little 
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21st, 2010 03:19 am |
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14th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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hockyhed wrote: I just downed two beers admiring the healthy glow of my defroster For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://apprentice.applianceguru.com
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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