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GE Fridge GTS22WCMBRWW. Works/Don't Work.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 06:35 am
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Pepse
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First, Yes I read the sticky's about warm 'fridges.  Doesn't quite answer my question(s).  Second, there is an old post from 2007 with the same model number and after a month of that person losing money on food and sticking in parts he ended up buying a new one.  Maybe we can figure mine good or bad in a shorter time.
 
  So, let me begin by saying that it is 7 years old and we Never cleaned out the back of the unit; it's clean now:).  It is a case whereas this past Sat. nite the freezer fan started to run continuously. Yep, things were getting warm in there.  So Sunday morning I unplugged it.  A daughter was visiting and we started to try to figure out the problem.  Well like I said the back was plugged.  Cleaned up everything back there plugged it in and checked that everything was running, Yep.  Googled the fridge and ended up on this site.  Read 1/2 of his first page that day. 

  So, from about 11AM Sunday until late Monday evening it worked good.  Then Monday night it started warming up again.  Freezer fan kept running and not cooling.  Wife turned freezer control to 0 and left FF control at 5 for about 30 minutes and then set freezer control to 5.  It was cooling a little, temp would get to about 34 degrees in freezer and the FF temp remained a fairly constant 40 degrees.  She kept doing this until she had to go to work.  I let the fridge run for about an hour then turned off the freezer for about an hour. turned it on and after a bit the freezer got down to 10.  Pulled unit from wall and took off bottom panel.  Fan is blowing good (the fan is on the right; don't wanna say which one I think it is).  The compressor must be running as it has a smooth vibration to it.  There is NO frost buildup anywhere on the back,not sure if it is good or bad.  Pushed unit back in its hole.  After 4 hours the freezer fan shut off.  Freezer temp is 0, FF temp is 36.  Altho freezer temp shoots up fast when door is open, period.  At least 5 degrees in about 15 seconds.  Could be normal as we don't normally keep thermometors in our fridge and freezer:D.  But before the freezer fan shut off it made several attempts, I think, to shut off.  It would cut out briefly and then run for about 30 seconds then cut out briefly etc., etc.  It did this for about 20 minutes.  Then the freezer fan stayed off. I just checked (12:20 AM CST) and freezer fan is still off and it is 10 below in freezer and 37 in the FF. 

  So, I am looking for opnions on this.

Pepse.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 07:12 am
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Pepse wrote: ... before the freezer fan shut off it made several attempts, I think, to shut off.  It would cut out briefly and then run for about 30 seconds then cut out briefly etc., etc.  It did this for about 20 minutes.  Then the freezer fan stayed off...

was the Compressor and (Compressor) Condenser Fan still running OK during those 20 minutes ?

need to take a look at the Freezer Evaporator and the Evaporator Fan (may be bad)





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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 07:48 am
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The picture looks familiar, from that 2007 posting.  It doesn't do me any good at this time.  Anyway, I think both fans were running.  I am not sure which fan is which.  There is the fan in the coil on the bottom right in back and I think the other fan you mention is the one that blows air from the back to the front (underneath).  If you have a better diagram or can tell me where to look if I am standing in the back we can go from there.  As of this time 1:45AM CST all is quiet.  Of course all was quiet Sunday nite/Monday 'til evening, also.

  What I call the freezer fan is the only fan in that diagram you have. 

Pepse.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 08:04 am
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Evaporator Fan (Freezer Fan) Motor # 610 inside the Freezer



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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 04:05 pm
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Yep, that one works.  As of this time, 10:02AM Wednesday, the unit is doing good.  But, like the person in 2007 and this fridge here, that doesn't mean anything.  If I am lucky all will be fine but I ain't gonna hold my breath.  I will keep an ear open anytime it runs.  I get the feeling that this won't hold up, but ya never know.

Pepse.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 04:42 pm
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When there is intermittent evap fan movement, it most always is the main control board. Part #WR55X10942.
Not sure that it's worth it on this fridge since it retails for almost $150.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:04 am
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I have had this feeling it could be the main control board.  Seems to me on Sunday when my son-in-law tapped on it did something different.  Don't remember what but something kicked in or ?????????????  I also gotta feeling things started to work better yesterday when I moved the fridge out from its hole.  Vibration or something like that mighta kicked something in.  If it starts to get weird again I will move it back out and remove the cover from the control board and tap on it.  Might work.  To this point we haven't put anything in the freezer except a ice pail of water.  It's been holding a constant 10 below and 37 in the FF.  Thankfully we have a chest freezer that has some room in it.

  If it gets weird I will report back.

Pepse.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:59 am
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Also, check the thermistors in the freezer. If you have the old style, you need to replace both 'em.



There are two in the freezer: on the side of the compartment and attached to the evaporator, items 203 and 605 in this diagram.

Thermistor part link==> CLICK



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 01:46 am
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So, if I see it right it doesn't matter if they have the round top or flat top the point is that the bad ones have an unsealed bottom?

Pepse.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 01:52 am
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Pepse wrote:
So, if I see it right it doesn't matter if they have the round top or flat top the point is that the bad ones have an unsealed bottom?


Correctum.



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 Posted: Sat Aug 7th, 2010 03:44 am
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We repair a lot of these ge motherboards, if you want to save some money... $80 incl return shipping:

http://fixyourboard.com/boards/WR55X10552.html

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 Posted: Fri Aug 27th, 2010 06:07 am
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First of all I will keep this reply in my inbox in case I need parts.  So, that brings me to say that after 23 days the whole unit is working good (I have been knocking on wood from time to time:D:D).  It has been running normal since 08/04.  We did not put any food in the freezer until about 8 days ago.  But it has been holding a fairly constant -4 degrees F.  Including now with it full of food.  And we have the controls set at 5 and 5.  So, so far so good.  Like I said before if it acts weird I'll post.

Pepse.

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 06:47 pm
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Well it's been awhile since I said anything about this refridgedeezer.  It still acts up about every 7 to 10 days.  Usually I pull the fridge out and tap on the control board and it works again.  So, I think it is the control board.  One time when I was tapping on the board I tapped on a capacitor and got a mild shock.  If memory serves that shouldn't happen if it is good capacitor.  So is it possible it is just that capacitor that is the problem in the board?  And yeah I definitely think it is just the board because of what I have done.  Opinions?

Pepse.

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 Posted: Wed Oct 13th, 2010 07:01 pm
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fixyourboard wrote: We repair a lot of these ge motherboards, if you want to save some money... $80 incl return shipping:

http://fixyourboard.com/boards/WR55X10552.html



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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 07:44 am
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kdog, I haven't forgot your earlier post for a new board.  I was looking for an opinion that would say that maybe my only problem with the board is a bad capacitor and I could get another one and replace the bad one.  But, if you think it is more than a bad cap on the board then I will try to convince my wife that this is the way to go.  I know her main point will be "Is it worth $120.00 to hope that a new board would cure it?"  True we've been nursing this along in hopes for a cure for it so we don't have to spend $500+ for a new fridge but.  That's my dilemma at the moment.

Later. Pepse.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 11:32 am
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If it's one or both of the two medium sized, (35 volt, I believe - top left corner of board when mounted), capacitors then, YES, that very well could be your problem.

If the tops looked bulged out at all, that is another indication of a bad capacitor.

If you're handy with a solder iron and can de-solder and solder in those two capacitors it could very well fix all your problems.

I've repaired these boards before by replacing those two capacitors when they where the obvious problem, tops all bulged out and one even leaking a little, (split open the relief vents on top).




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 Posted: Thu Oct 14th, 2010 05:58 pm
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I will look at those again.  Actually I will look at all the caps closer to see if any are bulged and replace as needed.  Yeah, I used to do alot of electronic repair years ago and still do just what I need to on whatever.  I'll report back later.

Later. Pepse.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 21st, 2010 07:38 am
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Pepse
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I had to pull out the fridge last night and unplugged it and tapped on the board so it would work again.  I looked at all the caps and they look real good so I will see about ordering a board from "fixyourboard" if I can find a phone number or email addy to communicate with him/her.

Later. Pepse.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 06:31 am
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website is fixyourboard.com



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 09:50 pm
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Pepse
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Okay, I see I wasn't paying attention when I was on their website.

Later. Pepse.

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