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Whirlpool DU1055XTVSO Won't Drain in Final Stage  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 07:24 pm
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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The problem has become more frequent recently, as a matter of factuality, almost always now.

The dishwasher leaves a little water in the bottom.  The level is just above the accumulator and just below the heating element.  During a heated dry, as a result of the water in the bottom, there is a lot of steam build up in the cabinet, (look out Martha, she's gonna BLOW) hence, no drying of the dishes.

It is connected to a garbage disposal, but I know there is no blockage because when I press the "Cancel/Drain" button during the dry cycle, the tub will drain dry.  BUTT, that then ends the drying cycle and not the desired end result.

I have had the bottom open, checked the macerator (sp) blades, screen, etc.  No clogs or plugging here.

I have a deep fear this model uses an electronic cycle timer (since I don't hear that familiar (ying, ying, ying, ying, ying, ying of a motor on a mechanical timer).

Is there a way I can check the drain pump intitiation at the start of the dry cycle, or otherwise put, at the end of the rinse cycle?

Thanks

Last edited on Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 07:30 pm by Mr. Fixawidgetdigits



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 07:36 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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The drain hose hasent fallen down in the cabinet allowing the water to siphon back in has it?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 09:23 pm
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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You know, interesting you should ask that.......oh teacher and conveyor of wisdom!

While it does fully drain when I hit the "Cancel/Drain" button on the control panel, the drain hose actually runs across the back of the sink cabinet, all the way to the other side, on the floor of the cabinet, and then up to the drain fitting on the garbage disposal.:?

As I said, while it does drain when told to manually, this seemed a peculiar run for the drain tube.

Last edited on Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 09:25 pm by Mr. Fixawidgetdigits



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 09:25 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Take a look at some common drain hose instamallations and compare with yours:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/02/dishwasher-drain-hose-installations/



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 10:17 pm
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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The Great Masta has addressed by lowly issue.......

I am honored and humbled by your presence oh Great and Wise Masta.......

The hose runs across the back floor of a wide sink cabinet (double tub sink), then up the far side to a lttile above the bottom of the sink and then down to the garbage disposal drain connection.

I just did a little rerouting.  It nows runs up the near wall, drops down some, then back up to about the bottom of the sink level, then down to the drain connection.

But, Masta, this Grasshoppa does not fully grap the wisdom yet to behold and why it would drain correctly when the "Drain/Cancel" button is pushed???  Is this a mystery of the universe, oh wise Great One?



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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 10:28 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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When the pump is running its forcing the water out, when its not there's nothing to stop the siphon created by the inappropriately ran drain line.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 3rd, 2010 10:43 pm
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Well appl.tech.29501, I am going to give this temproary re-routing a go tonight and see WASSUP!

Thanks folks......I 'll let you know.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 11:37 pm
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Well folks re-routing the drain line didn't help and I just checked to make CERTAIN there are no kinks under or behind the d/w.

This is a failry new d/w, we have been in the house for just a year and it was installed just before we got here.  This is not making any sense other than a faulty control module.

Any ideas?  I would try flushing it out with a cold brew, but that would be such a waste of good beer.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 11:47 pm
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If you remove the kick plate at the bottom front of the unit there should be a tech sheet stuck to the back of it. The tech sheet should show the time signatures and sequence of operation for the control. You may have to sit there and watch the end of the cycle and see it the times are correct.

Also when your manually pumping it out and when your letting the cycle complete itself are you checking for water in the tub immediately after completion or waiting a few minutes?



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:05 am
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Mr digits-found many of these with check valves that don't open all the way. elbow attached to sump outlet has a check valve in there. be sure that opens all the way. you may need to stick your finger in to unstick the rubber check valve.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:09 am
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Hey appl.tech!

Yes, I found the tech sheet.  I was just reading up on them in another posting here.

Usually, we find the water remaining several minutes or hours later.  It is like, " Oh the dishwasher is done" and we open it to empty it and find a bunch of still wet dishes and water in the bottom of the tub.

If I initiate the diagnostic test, what should I expect?  Can it be advanced from one cycle to the next by depressing the start button for each advance?  I saw this referred to as Rapid advance.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:18 am
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Yes it should however the test mode times may be quicker than actual cycle times. Now that your drain hose is up in the air I am less concerned about the siphoning issue that you could of previously had. I'm more incline to the the check valve is sticking as BLTH15 suggests a few posts back. After the drain cycle finishes open the door right away and check...if there's no water sit there and watch for a few minutes and see if the water magically reappears.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:26 am
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Hmmmm.....that sounds like a pull it and face down operation...but may be worthwhile.

How much pressure should drain water flow at?  I can see the drain water running into the garbage disposal, and not a lot of pressure.  I mean it flows good, but not a lot of pressure behind it.  It basically flows in and falls right to the center of the G/D blade.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 12:28 am
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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appl.tech.29501 wrote:  After the drain cycle finishes open the door right away and check...if there's no water sit there and watch for a few minutes and see if the water magically reappears.
Do you mean to do this as part of the diagnositc cycle?  Will the diag cycle actually fill and drain the d/w?



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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 01:01 am
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Well you chaps have given me enough to keep me busy this evening.  I will try these things out and get back with you.

Thanks for all your help!:D



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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Confusion say, "If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it."

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 Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 02:04 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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BLTH15 wrote:
Mr digits-found many of these with check valves that don't open all the way. elbow attached to sump outlet has a check valve in there. be sure that opens all the way. you may need to stick your finger in to unstick the rubber check valve.

A golden pearl, BLTH! Domo!




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 Posted: Fri Aug 6th, 2010 01:06 am
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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As it is said Masta, a picture is worth a thousand words......

Well I ran the diagnostic check thinking I would figure this out as I went along.  Watched the lights flash and timed some of the cycles.  Didn't really learn a whole lot there.  Had hoped to catch it during a drain cycle but I couldn't figure out where they should be.

Bottom line, after the diag run, water was left in the basin.  AND, much to my surprise, it was soapy water.   The drying aid dispenser is not emplty, so, am I looking at soap residue left over from the drain not working properly on ANY cycle, or is this soapy water the result of the drying aid stuff?  And no, I didn't add soap for the diag run.

Yet another mystery!

I will be pulling the d/w out tonight and checking that check valve (can you check a check valve?) or is that a double entondre?  I hope that tube opening is big if I have to push a finger in there.  I got some major digits!

Hey, maybe I should go by Maj. Fixawidgetdigits!

Anyway, the d/w saga continues.

Last edited on Fri Aug 6th, 2010 01:09 am by Mr. Fixawidgetdigits



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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Confusion say, "If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it."

We all live in a yellow submarine, a yellow submarine, a yellow submarine.... (sing along now)
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 Posted: Fri Aug 6th, 2010 02:39 am
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digitman- remove bottom toe panel. if you need more room outer door panel will come off by removing the 4 screws on each side of the inner door. just behind the toe panel you'll see the drain loop attached to the drain sump. the check valve is in the 90 degree angle of the part the master has so graciously shown you. and yesyou'll have sudsy water at the end of the diagnostic cycle.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 6th, 2010 02:58 am
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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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BLTH15....I humble myself before the teacher......

I did find that the drain hose connects to the front of the pump assembly before pulling the d/w out.

I stuck my pinky down the tube as far as I could get it, and my finger tip felt something flexible, but not moving.  Not knowing what I was suppose to find, I removed my finger (a little nip and tuck there for a minute) and blew through the line.  There was air going through but a good deal of resistance.  I remembered someone in another thread saying you should be able to blow through the tube failry easily.

Stuck my pinky in again and pressed harder against the frmus at the bootm and "POP" it came loose and then rolled back against my finger.

My D/W now drains.......

I am so humbled by the true masters of appliantology!  You saved my bacon!



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Mr. Fixawidgetdigits
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Confusion say, "If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it."

We all live in a yellow submarine, a yellow submarine, a yellow submarine.... (sing along now)
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 Posted: Fri Aug 6th, 2010 04:26 pm
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