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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > No ice being made in Kenmore Elite Side by Side Refrigerator Model 10644109300

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No ice being made in Kenmore Elite Side by Side Refrigerator Model 10644109300  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jul 25th, 2010 02:16 am
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LufianGuy
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We have had the Kenmore Elite Side by Side Refrigerator Model 10644109300 for about 5-6 years now.

It recently stopped making ice.

We purchased a new icemaker and installed it, no effect.

I searched online for answers and you guys seem to know refrigerators the best.

We followed all the guides and tests, I think our optics are faulty.

We checked the connections and the water tube, they are good. We tried jumping points on the motor, but nothing came of it due to the optics being broke.

The LED still blinks twice then delays (bad) before repeating the cycle even when holding the flapper door closed instead of staying on (good) like it is supposed to.

We are going to try to clean the sensors but our hopes aren't high. We don't want to call a repairman or replace the sensor boards (not high on money here) and are trying the best we can.

I have read in other posts you have been able to tell people to jumper/connect two wires in the freezer to turn the icemaker into a standard one, I think we should do that (ice at all times is better than none at all).

We unscrewed both sensors and looked for a black and black/white wires and couldn't find that. So we aren't sure what wires we should connect.

Here is the other post I read where you told someone to bypass the sensors by connecting the wires:
http://applianceguru.com/forum1/24822.html

Here is the manual for my refrigerator:
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/24709/KENMORE-Side-by-Side-Refrigerator-L0401034?brand_name_search=10644109300+KENMORE

I figure once you tell us what color wires to connect on what side of the freezer, we should be back in business.

Thanks a lot!

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 Posted: Sun Jul 25th, 2010 04:08 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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are the tests (above) talking about the "old" IceMaker or the "new" one (or both) ?



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 Posted: Sun Jul 25th, 2010 12:56 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Here's some info on diagnosing the optics part of the icemaker:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/06/29/troubleshooting-icemakers-with-the-fancy-optical-controls/

And here's for the icemaker itself:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/24/troubleshooting-flowchart-for-the-whirlpool-built-modular-icemaker/



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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 10:20 pm
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LufianGuy
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Back after a long time and nothing has been done here.

I came back because I am tired of having to go to a different section of the house and transport ice everyday.

I check the troubleshooting chart here:
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/06/29/troubleshooting-icemakers-with-the-fancy-optical-controls/

I found we should replace our emitter board.

We would much rather just turn this into a standard always on icemaker if we can by doing something like soldering two wires together.

Would this be possible?


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 Posted: Wed Nov 17th, 2010 10:37 pm
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LufianGuy
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I plan to test the icemaker itself tomorrow when my dad is home because he knows how to test everything I don't.

The freezer temperature is 0 and the refrigerator temperature is 40.

After that I'm at a loss.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 02:29 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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LufianGuy wrote:

We would much rather just turn this into a standard always on icemaker if we can by doing something like soldering two wires together.

Would this be possible?



Possibly. Would need to see your schematic. Tech sheet should be folded up into an impossibly tiny wad and stuffed in the toe grill. Unfold and upload and nice photo or fax to me at 866-315-4504.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 07:16 pm
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LufianGuy
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My goal is to at least hopefully get the icemaker working. Maybe as a standard always on icemaker.

My dad is hoping we can wire the icemaker so it will be controlled by the on/off slider at the right side of the freezer.

I'll take what I can get here and will probably donate $15 if I'm satisfied.

My dad didn't have time to test the old or new icemaker today, I have to keep nagging him for us to go through the flowchart on both of them. Hopefully we will do so soon.

I managed to get the tech sheet that was requested from the toe grill: (click on the magnifying glass to enlarge the photo)
Front: http://img44.imageshack.us/f/freezerwiringsheetfront.jpg/
Back: http://img225.imageshack.us/f/freezerwiringsheetback.jpg/

Please let me know if there is anything else I can do to help, your help is very much appreciated, thank you.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 09:58 pm
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10644109300
not much info on that model

but seems to be similar to
Whirlpool GC1SHAXM
Service Manual  8178551

which has the IDI (inDoor IceMaker)
Whirlpool Job Aid service manual R 92

You could either replace the LED Optics Boards ..
 
click on picture


OR

remove the 8-pin Connector on the Reciever and jumper

Pin 3 Black
to
Pin 4 Black/White

I don't know if the IceMaker will turn OFF when the Bin is full.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:10 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:

I don't know if the IceMaker will turn OFF when the Bin is full.


That's the catch. The function of the optics is to start and stop the ice maker. The ice maker doesn't have a feeler arm so without the optics, the ice maker has no way to shut off when the bin is full.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:24 pm
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LufianGuy
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Yes it is an IDI (inDoor IceMaker).

I figure I can just put the ice in a ziploc bag everynight and let it constantly fill.

If this system does not work out, then I can just tell my Dad we have to replace the LED Optics Boards.

Is there any way to make this more idiot proof (maybe a picture with numbers?):
Remove the 8-pin Connector on the Receiver and jumper

Pin 3 Black
to
Pin 4 Black/White

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 Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 10:45 pm
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LufianGuy
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I was wrong about the IDI.

The icemaker is located at the top of the freezer (not attached to the door) and it drops ice into the bucket that is on the door of the freezer.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 02:42 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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does it have the two small boards as pictured above ?

one has a 4-pin connector

one has an 8-pin connector


 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 10:41 pm
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LufianGuy
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So we started testing the new icemaker.

We tried to manually start the harvest cycle and nothing happened.

We didn't hear a click and no water came. We don't know what a control module looks like and my dad refuses to believe the icemaker is bad since he bought it new.

Water does come to the front of the freezer door for drinks at the dispenser.

I think I might take some pictures of our refrigerator and put them up here.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 10:44 pm
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LufianGuy
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This image is helpful for me:
http://www.applianceassistant.com/images/appliances/IceMaker_diagram.png


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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 11:15 pm
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LufianGuy
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Okay I took some pictures of the refrigerator:
(click on the magnifying glass to enlarge the photo)

Freezer Door Ice and Water Dispenser (Works Fine. Yes we need to replace the filter, we have before with a green light and the icemaker still didn't work)
http://img405.imageshack.us/f/freezerdoordispenser.jpg/

New Icemaker inside of freezer (plugged in)
http://img34.imageshack.us/f/icemaker.jpg/

Freezer Door Ice Bucket:
http://img204.imageshack.us/f/freezerdooricebucket.jpg/

Are we trying to manually start the harvest cycle wrong?

We put the two stripped copper wire ends of the insulted wire in T and H while the icemaker was plugged in and the freezer door was open. We didn't notice anything happening.

My dad also held the button at the top and the side panel to make it seem like the door was closed and we didn't notice anything different happening.

What should we do now?

Also could you guys possibly give me an estimate of how much a professional repairman might charge to fix this?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 11:53 pm
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LufianGuy
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We tried to jumper (solder) the wires ourselves but we aren't sure which ones are correct, I took some photos:

Left Side Optic Wiring:
http://img21.imageshack.us/f/leftopticwires.jpg/

Right Side Optic Wiring:
http://img541.imageshack.us/f/rightopticwires.jpg/

So on the right side we are supposed to:

1. Remove the 8-pin Connector on the Receiver (so the wires are separated).

2. Jumper (solder) Pin 3 Black Wire end to Pin 4 Black/White Wire end.

We aren't sure how to know which wire is Pin 3 and Pin 4.

There is one black wire with white writing on it, but there isn't another black wire.

Is there a method so we know the correct wires?

Like a mark on the connector or maybe you could number the pins on the picture of the board because they are the same boards as the picture earlier.

I just want to make sure we don't make a mistake and break the icemaker or wiring, thanks.

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