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GE Side by Side Freezer working Fridge not so much...

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Posted: Sun Jul 18th, 2010 11:05 pm

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sparky333
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I have a GE side by side model # GSL25JFPBS. Last Saturday the fridge was at temp but the freezer went out. Called Ge and complained about being out side of the warranty and they agreed to pay for and parts, but no labor. This was only under the condition that I use one of their "recommended" repair services.

Guy came out replaced the motherboard, freezer started working. Fridge sits at 60 degrees. i replaced the thermoreisistor in the fridge no results. there is a mechanical door between the freezer and the fridge which is how the fridge is cooled; but it will not stay open and only seems to open when freezer kicks on or i unplug the fridge and plug it back in.

PLEASE HELP ME OH WISE SAMURAI.

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Posted: Sun Jul 18th, 2010 11:30 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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whats the freezer temp.?

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Posted: Sun Jul 18th, 2010 11:33 pm

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sparky333
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0 degrees in the freezer

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Posted: Sun Jul 18th, 2010 11:44 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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is the evaporator fan running?

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Posted: Sun Jul 18th, 2010 11:55 pm

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sparky333
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i hear humming behind the evaporator coils cant see the fan

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Posted: Sun Jul 18th, 2010 11:56 pm

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sparky333
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oops scratch the last reply, found the evaporator fan yes it is working

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 01:25 am

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sparky333
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also checked return air vent on bottom of fridge it is not iced over, any thoughts?

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 01:37 am

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sparky333
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took the evaporator cover off bottom right portion of the gasket was melted.

Also this fridge is 7 yrs old bought at Lowes.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 01:40 am

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sparky333
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*bottom left

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 01:45 am

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appl.tech.29501
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That's common.....coils were not clogged right? Check the frige light switch to ensure that the light is turning off.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 01:51 am

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sparky333
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light turns off when i push the door switch

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 02:39 am

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appl.tech.29501
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When you killed the power before how long was it disconnected? at least 15 seconds?

verify that the "door" is actually shutting the light off.

its not making much sense...the freezer is at 0 the frige is at 60. upon power up you verified the damper opened so that verifies damper operation. the damper is controlled by the Mother board via the thermistor that you replaced and your problem is air not getting to the frige. double check your connections at the thermistor that you replaced.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 04:16 am

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sparky333
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what is the best way to make your splice for the thermistor? I used butt splices and 33.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 04:37 am

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appl.tech.29501
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I like to use the small crimp caps, but butt connectors are fine as well. As long as your sure that your not crimping the wires insulation.Those wires are so small its easy to push them in too far so your not actually crimping onto the wire.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 06:06 am

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sparky333
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well cut butt splices off put it back together ill check to see if temp drops in a few hours, was reading on fixitnow.com about GE defrost issues and that'll be my next step.

Should the damper door stay open until it reaches the correct temperature ?

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 03:43 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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Once you open the frige door the damper closes. To check to see if the damper is open (which it should be with the frige that warm.) Make sure the evap. Fan is running, open the frige and hold the light switch down and the damper should open..if it does you should feel air flowing in from freezer, if you don't then it sounds like your evap coils are clogged.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19th, 2010 05:22 pm

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sparky333 wrote:
well cut butt splices off put it back together ill check to see if temp drops in a few hours,

These circuits are very sensitive to resistance so it's usually best to solder the connections for thermistor splices.

was reading on fixitnow.com about GE defrost issues and that'll be my next step.

The Samurai Test for the Defrost Circuit:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/13/the-samurai-test-for-the-defrost-circuit-in-a-ge-refrigerator-with-a-muthaboard-and-the-quick-fix/

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Posted: Tue Jul 20th, 2010 04:23 am

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sparky333
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The repairman removed a jumper on the main board that was causing problems with the damper door. Thank You for all your help.

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Posted: Tue Jul 20th, 2010 05:48 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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sparky333 wrote: The repairman removed a jumper on the main board ...

you didn't have to pay for this call, did you ?

Installation Instructions Main Board WR55X10552 (and yours)

ELIMINATE THERMISTOR WIRE IN PIN 2 OF J1 CONNECTOR (See note below) IF NO WIRE IN PIN 2, PROCEED TO STEP 3

NOTE: This step is ONLY applicable for the following models:

All BOTTOM FREEZER models

ENCODER models with the following serial number prefixes: TD2, VD2, ZD2, AF2, DF2, FF2, GF2, HF2, LF2, MF2, RF2, SF2

(yours is an Encoder Model)

WR55X10552-motherboard-replacement.pdf

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Posted: Tue Jul 20th, 2010 01:21 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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That makes sense why your problem didn't make sense

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