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 Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info!
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Samsung RB2044SL  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Jul 8th, 2010 04:43 am
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Mrtechhead
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I'm giving this overpriced hunk a junk one last chance and then, well I don't know.

I see from the forums that this is a common problem with the Samsung/Maytag units.

Here's my story.

When the unit is first plugged in it runs diagnostice and a blinking "d" is displayed. According to the manual this indicates a bad refrigerator defrost sensor. Checked it- looks good. Replaced it anyway- same problem.

Once the display is cleared if I put the unit into Forced Operation function and force a refridge defrost it again indicates a failure.  f and d are displayed.

I checked that connections and continuity between the defrost sensor and the circuit board. There are no opens or shorts to ground, which is good.

Next I focused on the heater since this seems to be the most common failure and I figured maybe I'm misunderstanding the self diagnostics thing. The heater measures about 112 ohms, which is good for a 120v, 120w heater. I again checked connections and there are no signs of corrosion etc. I also rigged up a connection and wired the heater to 120v power and it certainly got warm.

Usually when I get to a point in troubleshooting where logic is failing I apply some illogic. Unfortunately I don't have any illogical ideas.

Thoughts anyone?

 

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 Posted: Thu Jul 8th, 2010 04:58 am
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appl.tech.29501
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sounds like you've already figured it out....

you have a new sensor..

your verified the heater....

so unless you have a bad wire then your control is bad.


Unless your unit has a defrost sensor and some sort of high limit safety..which i dont think it does. does it have a fusable link before the heater?



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 Posted: Thu Jul 8th, 2010 05:19 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: ... a fusable link before the heater?

yes, left side of Evaporator

AC250V 10A 77 ±5°C

click on picture



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 Posted: Thu Jul 8th, 2010 05:23 am
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Mrtechhead
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Thanks for replying. What took so long? I waited nearly 15 minutes!:P

I'm a bit embarrassed that I forgot part of the story. The part where I came to the conclusion that the control board was bad so I ordered it and it didn't fix the problem.

There is a temp fuse and that measures .2 ohms so that's good.

I'm at that point where I'm going in circles checking things and I need to start checking different things. 

Every once in a while the self diagnostics things can get misled. You get a failure code on the first item checked but the cause is further down the list at some common point like a voltage or ground connection.

I'm studying the circuit diagram and making a plan of attack for tomorrow.

Thanks

 

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 Posted: Thu Jul 8th, 2010 09:44 pm
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BrntToast
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i'd be checking the freezer evap for icing
a frozen freezer evap can cause frosting in the beer compartment

check the thermal fuse in the freezer



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 Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 02:32 am
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Mrtechhead
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Thanks to all for replying. The saga of our fridge has finally ended.

It was a slow motion repair, but any repair is a good repair. Just as I, and my wife, were about to throw in the towel and send the fridge to the appliance graveyard, there was a breakthrough. After numerous tests where all the components tested good, the refridge defrost temperature sensor decided to get caught in the act of misbehaving. When I put the ohm meter on it for the 5th time in 4 months it finally read 98 ohms, which is way way out of range.

As I mentioned in my previous post, I had ordered that sensor and replaced it and it didn't fix our problem, so I took it back out, and ordered the main board. The main board didn't fix it either, at least not alone. It turns out that both the sensor and the main board were bad.

 

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 Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2010 02:51 am
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appl.tech.29501
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glad to hear ya got it going, good job...sometimes they can be a biotch like that ;)



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