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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > 1.5 YEAR OLD frigidaire not cooling anymore!!!!! PLEASE HELP! Read more: http://forum.appliancepart

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1.5 YEAR OLD frigidaire not cooling anymore!!!!! PLEASE HELP! Read more: http://forum.appliancepart  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 03:50 am
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sssb2000
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: that doesn't mean that the defrost thermostat is bad. although it very well could be, you have 2 other components in your defrost system remember? you need to let the freezer get to at least 10 degrees F. preferably 0 in order to test the components easier.
ok. so i unplugged it cause i wanted to do what was suggested....but i just plugged it back in, in order to let it go to 10 or 0 by the morning.
i will go to the shop and buy both the heater cables and the therm.  how much would they be roughly?
i'd just replace both.  if they're cheap, why not?

i still haven't put the pannel back on.  i think i'll just leave them off overnight.  that shouldn't hurt it too much right?

Also, i'm posting another 2 or 3 pictures.....i have a leak in the back.  can someone tell me what that leak is please?
it's leaking from the pipe directly on top of the blue thing.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 03:54 am
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sssb2000
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here are the pictures i'm talking about:


1
2
3
4
5

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 03:56 am
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appl.tech.29501
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How do you know that your control isn't bad? wouldn't that suck if you spent $80 on 2 parts you might not need and then have to spend another $100 on the part that you do need? Hey, I'm cool with it if you are.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 03:57 am
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applianceman18007260692
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Defrost the ice and take a picture of the bottom of the coil so we can ID the heater
It could be glass tube or metal. Whos knows. Yer model number won't work with my sources.

Attachment: defrost heater.jpg (Downloaded 27 times)

Last edited on Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:03 am by applianceman18007260692



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:02 am
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Nope, your heater looks like this




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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:02 am
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: How do you know that your control isn't bad? wouldn't that suck if you spent $80 on 2 parts you might not need and then have to spend another $100 on the part that you do need? Hey, I'm cool with it if you are.

no, i'm not cool with that.
i'm running it till tomorrow.  what should i do tomorrow morning? anything?

how do i make sure i identify the problem child?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:06 am
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applianceman18007260692
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Well if you thaw it out it will work ok for a few weeks if you do nothing. Then it will begin to fail once more IF the controls are fine and the defrost heater ain't.

Last edited on Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:07 am by applianceman18007260692



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:10 am
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Thaw that thang out and let us see what the dang heater looks like.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:18 am
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applianceman18007260692 wrote: Thaw that thang out and let us see what the dang heater looks like.
appl.tech.29501 showed us what the heater looks like.
the heater is NOT at the bottom of the frosted block.  i checked.  it's not.
what appl.tech.29501 showed is indeed the heaters.

thawing it may resolve the problem for a few days or a week, but i think he is right.  we have to make sure that we replace the correct component.

i just want to know what to do when i wake up in the morning, the temp of the freezer is around 10, frost all over the place and i'm getting ready to go to work. lol

 i HAVE TO buy the part tomorrow right after work....so i can have it replaced tomorrow night before i leave for the weekend.
how can i make sure i'm getting the right part and how difficult is it to replace it?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:23 am
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make sure the freezer temp. is at least 10 F.and that the freezer fan is running. open the frige side and press the light switch 5 times within 6 seconds. listen for the freezer fan to shut off. if it does then you are in defrost mode.take the freezer wall back out. listen for a sizzle from the heater coming on. after a minute or so if you hear no sizzle unplug the heater connectors and check the heater with the "OHM's" setting on your meter. If you show continuity across the heater then its good. No continuity means its bad. If you did hear the immediate sizzle and it now defrosting the the control is bad.

If you have continuity then unplug the other wire that goes to the defrost thermostat and OHM the thermostat it should show continuity if it doesn't then its bad (as long as its at least 10 F. or colder.

If both the heater and terminator show continuity then you have a bad control or bad wiring from control. When you initiate the unit into defrost and the fan does not shut off, try it 2 or 3 more times if it still doesn't shut the fan off then the control is bad in that case as well (as long as the defrost thermostat is 10 F. or colder)



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:30 am
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sssb2000
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: make sure the freezer temp. is at least 10 F.and that the freezer fan is running. open the frige side and press the light switch 5 times within 6 seconds. listen for the freezer fan to shut off. if it does then you are in defrost mode.take the freezer wall back out. listen for a sizzle from the heater coming on. after a minute or so if you hear no sizzle unplug the heater connectors and check the heater with the "OHM's" setting on your meter. If you show continuity across the heater then its good. No continuity means its bad.

If you have continuity then unplug the other wire that goes to the defrost thermostat and OHM the thermostat it should show continuity if it doesn't then its bad (as long as its at least 10 F. or colder.

If both the heater and terminator show continuity then you have a bad control or bad wiring from control. When you initiate the unit into defrost and the fan does not shut off, try it 2 or 3 more times if it still doesn't shut the fan off then the control is bad in that case as well (as long as the defrost thermostat is 10 F. or colder)

yes, i think i understand.
right now, the panel is off. 

1.  i'm guessing you want me to screw it back on.  right?

2. if i hear a fizzle, then i don't have to check the heater with the OHM's meter right?

3. by "continuity", you mean that the bar on the ohm meter is steady somewhere other than 0, right?

4. how exactly do i connect the ohm meter? to what? from what?

and finally,

5.did you get a chance to take a look at the 5 pictures i posted above? the copper pipe above the blue thing is leaking about a drop every 3 seconds!



thoughts?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 02:23 pm
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1) back wall can be out for testing

2) yes if you hear a sizzle then your heater is good and defrost thermostat is closed (could still be intermittent, but we ain't going there right now)

3) yes

4) one meter lead to one connector or wire, the other meter lead to the other connector or wire . Meter lead wire colors don't matter for this.

5) no I haven't looked at those picture, I can view them on my phone right now. But I can tell you without even looking what you should do. If you have already tried tightening the nut at the end of the copper tubing and the leak didn't stop or got a little worse you will need to cut about the last 2" off the copper line (using a tubing cutter) and replace the compression nut and ferrule. I would only recommend this if your tubing goes into the floor. If it connects right there behined the frige to a shut off then I would replce the entire thing with an anti~burst hose.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 02:36 pm
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applianceman18007260692 wrote:
Well if you thaw it out it will work ok for a few weeks if you do nothing. Then it will begin to fail once more IF the controls are fine and the defrost heater ain't.


Yes if you defrost it it will work as Wille states for about a week and a half however, that doesn't mean the control is good. The control "controls the defrost" as a mechanical defrost timer would. All your doing by defrosting it is buying more time for the inevitable.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 03:36 pm
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: 1) back wall can be out for testing

2) yes if you hear a sizzle then your heater is good and defrost thermostat is closed (could still be intermittent, but we ain't going there right now)

3) yes

4) one meter lead to one connector or wire, the other meter lead to the other connector or wire . Meter lead wire colors don't matter for this.

5) no I haven't looked at those picture, I can view them on my phone right now. But I can tell you without even looking what you should do. If you have already tried tightening the nut at the end of the copper tubing and the leak didn't stop or got a little worse you will need to cut about the last 2" off the copper line (using a tubing cutter) and replace the compression nut and ferrule. I would only recommend this if your tubing goes into the floor. If it connects right there behined the frige to a shut off then I would replce the entire thing with an anti~burst hose.

Thanks!
the temp got to 3 for the freezer and 52 for the fridge this morning.
i pressed the button for fridge on/off inside the fridge 5 times in 6 seconds....nothing happened.  then i held it down and it beeped and then the fan inside the freezer stopped and the digital thing said "of" for both fridge and freezer.  then, strangly, the temp went from 3 to 22!!! not sure why. (maybe cause i opened the freezer for a few seconds? can't be....right?)
anyway, i took the heater clip (red side) out, connected the black end of the ohm meter to a metal screw driver, and connected the red side to the metal part inside the heater connector.  No activity on the ohm meter.  i did the same with the other end of the heater...no activity.  i guess that means that the heater is screwed up....but i don't know if me turning the thing "of" cut electricity to the fridge/freezer.
the thoughts and stuff were still on, and it was constantly displaying "of" so the fridge had power....

thoughts?

ps. i unpluged the fridge to allow the thing to thaw before i can replace the heater....but then wasn't sure, so i plugged it back in so it's running right now.


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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:53 pm
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Nope, your testing completely wrong. You don't press the "on/off" switch, you press the "light switch"

You stick the meter lead into the disconnect "red" heater connector and the other meter lead into the disconnected "white" heater connector.

If your in doubt of how to proper test from the control I suggest ohming the heater. If can verify the heater is good (I think around 15~20 ohms) I recommend changing the control and defrost thermostat. If heater is bad. Change the heater and defrost thermostat.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 04:55 pm
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: Nope, your testing completely wrong. You don't press the "on/off" switch, you press the "light switch"

You stick the meter lead into the disconnect "red" heater connector and the other meter lead into the disconnected "white" heater connector.

If your in doubt of how to proper test from the control I suggest ohming the heater. If can verify the heater is good (I think around 15~20 ohms) I recommend changing the control and defrost thermostat. If heater is bad. Change the heater and defrost thermostat.


i don't have a "light" switch.....
do you see it anywhere in my pix?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 05:50 pm
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I can't view you unit at the moment, if you don't have a light switch the you will have to perform a key dance with the controls. I'll have to wait till I'm at a computer to view your units technical info. There should be a tech. Sheet in the front bottom grill of your unit, or taped in a plastic bacg to the frame of the unit behind the grill.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 08:35 pm
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: I can't view you unit at the moment, if you don't have a light switch the you will have to perform a key dance with the controls. I'll have to wait till I'm at a computer to view your units technical info. There should be a tech. Sheet in the front bottom grill of your unit, or taped in a plastic bacg to the frame of the unit behind the grill.
ok, i will standby.
i'm gonig to the place and buying all 3 components:

1. heater
2. thermostat
3. control

i won't open them so i can return them if i find out that's not the issue.

listen, thank you so much for helping me so much.  i want you to know that i really value and appreciate your time.  thank you!

i will be away for sat. and sunday, but will come back on monday so i'll have to have the parts cause i know the parts place will be closed.  i will keep the fridge plugged in while i'm gone.  i'll put a bucket under the leak.  anything else i should take into consideration?
 

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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 10:58 pm
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Nope, i'd turn the water off to the frige if you are going to be out of town. That way there's no chance of your bucket not being big enough;)



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 Posted: Fri Jul 2nd, 2010 11:06 pm
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Your Light Switch Is ITEM # 14





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