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Maytag SxS (MZD2766GE) not cooling ;-(  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Aug 21st, 2005 11:44 pm
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ggibeau
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After being out of town for 6 weeks, we came home to find the food side of our fridge at a comfortable 65 degrees F , but the freezer side was working just fine (I put a remote temp sensor in there). After a few false starts, I emptied the freezer and removed the back of the inside only to find I had my own home-grown glacier on the coils ;-). After about 30 minutes with a hair dryer and a lot of towels, the ices was gone. After making sure everything was dry, I powered up and let it start cooling. After reinstalling the panels, the food side is now down to ~51 degrees. However, I keep getting water out of the bottem of the freezer door seal. It almost feels as if the seal is filled with foam and somehow this foam got water logged. If I open the door and gently pull down on the seal, I get a nice puddle of water (I have been checking it over the past few hours and it doeas appear to be slowing down). Now for my questions;

1) Is the seal thingie anything to be concerned about?

2) What should I check to see if I am having a frost-free component failure (I found the sensor but not the rest of the items to check). I understand I need to check the ADC board as well as the thermostat/controller.

3) How long should the food side take to come back down to normal operating temperature? (am I just too impatient).

Thanks in advance,

George

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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 12:02 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Hi George,

Aren't these fun?

The water seepage you're experiencing is just residual from the deluge of melted condensate that was created when you defrosted the evaporator.

Since your fridge is a Maytag, it's a near certainty that the ADC board is bad. Our good friend, Pegi, posted a slick procedure for forcing defrost on these fridges in the Master Appliantologist's Dojo. Since you're a Samurai Apprentice, you have access to that forum; the particular thread of interest is here.

If the ADC board is bad (and it most likely is) you should replace it because the evaporator will just frost up again soon. You can get a new one here:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=948430

After I fix a defrosting problem in a fridge, I always tell the customer to allow 6 to 12 hours for normal temps to be restored. It takes some time from the compressor to handle that big slug of heat that gets thrown at it during a manual defrosting.




Good job in getting this far.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 01:36 am
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ggibeau
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Thanks for the quick response and the links to the previous article (as well as the parts link).

Dumb question number 1: without a schematic to follow or a repair manual in hand - where exactly is the ADC located ;-)

Thanks

George

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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 01:44 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The ADC in the beer compartment, up top in the very back of the controls. You'll need to disassemble that upper control panel to get to it. I'd get you a diagram but your model number doesn't seem to be correct-- re-check it.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 02:14 am
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Pegi
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Reference 13 is your ADC board.

Last edited on Tue Aug 23rd, 2005 12:27 am by



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 02:16 am
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Pegi
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Here is the schematic.


(image converted to link in this post and the preceeding post for clarity -- Samurai)

Last edited on Tue Aug 23rd, 2005 12:29 am by



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 02:24 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I am not having good luck finding these diagrams lately! I looked it up and it told me model number not found.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 03:05 am
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Pegi
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MZD2766GE   With Sears I put in    MZD2766*    This brought up 4 models with the GE on the end and then another letter like W and B for the different colors.   Put the first 5 or 6 characters in and use the * for the wild card, you will be surprised at what all comes up, gobs of options.  :)



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 03:16 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Good trick! It didn't occcur to me to use wildcards in the model number form at the Sears site. Domo.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 03:55 am
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ggibeau
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Thanks again for the quick response. I will remove the suspect part and see what the old multi-meter shows. If a new one is needed, I can at least do the cut wire trick to force 6 HR defrost cycle until the new part arrives.

Thanks again,

George

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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 04:09 am
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Pegi
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You can jump L1 and test to check the defrost system also, before you cut the wire tho.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 07:30 pm
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kwantlenappliance
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Some clarification on the Maytag ADC - forcing a defrost

Maytag requires a jumper between L1 & Test on the adaptive board, when the cold control is closedThis changed in all the 2003  Maytag models  where the cold control has to be cycled on & off three times in less than six seconds, and left in the on position - eliminating the jumper procedure. Note: Disconnecting orange wire (tape off disconnected wire) from Maytag ADC will force control to defrost unit every six hours. 

Find this at:

http://www.kwantlentrades.com/appliancerepair/technology.htm 

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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 08:00 pm
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Pegi
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Thanks for adding that, I was going to paste that in here also, but had not gotten it done yet..;)



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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 10:50 pm
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Southern
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kwantlenappliance wrote:


Some clarification on the Maytag ADC - forcing a defrost

Maytag requires a jumper between L1 & Test on the adaptive board, when the cold control is closed. This changed in all the 2003 Maytag models where the cold control has to be cycled on & off three times in less than six seconds, and left in the on position - eliminating the jumper procedure. Note: Disconnecting orange wire (tape off disconnected wire) from Maytag ADC will force control to defrost unit every six hours.

Find this at:

http://www.kwantlentrades.com/appliancerepair/technology.htm


Have you actually tried taping off the orange wire?

According the schematic, the orange wire is the neutral wire for the compressor, freezer fan motor and condenser fan motor. If you disconnect the orange wire none of these will run. The relay on the ADC switches the incoming neutral wire (white) between the defrost heater (yellow wire) and the compressor neutral wire (orange).

I know I am just a grasshopper but I question the source of your information because schematically it wont work.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 22nd, 2005 11:14 pm
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Pegi
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This is a service bulletin direct from Maytag, is where this information was copied from so guess this question would need to be directed at Maytag.  G.E. and Whrilpool have the same instructions out there for defrost problems with the ADC boards.

http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=2497&forum_id=3



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 Posted: Fri Mar 30th, 2007 11:33 pm
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turmanator
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How do I know the year of my Maytag refrigerator?
I want to know if I need to jumper for defrost (pre-2003)
or just do the on/off is 6 seconds.

 

 

 

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 Posted: Wed Apr 25th, 2007 09:34 pm
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Tom in PA
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Looks like I've got the same problem.  I'm not able to access the above article regarding the ADC board testing and jumping procedures.  I've made a donation...very small price to pay, this board has helped me on a couple occasions already:D

I just made a paypal transfer today, does it take a while before I can access the post? 

I'm also not sure how to tell the exact age of my fridge, any thoughts?

Thanks guys!!

Tom in PA

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 Posted: Wed Apr 25th, 2007 10:50 pm
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Tom in PA
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Well, a short while later I've defrosted the coils and now I feel some cool air entering the fridge.  Guess I'll be buying an ADC board tonight to get this thing fixed. 

This site rocks!  Thanks again!

Tom in PA

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 Posted: Thu Apr 26th, 2007 06:12 pm
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turmanator
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I actually just replaced th C2 capacitor on the board
for $1.00 and it fixed it ...

 

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 Posted: Mon Apr 30th, 2007 08:06 pm
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stupidfridge
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Pegi wrote: You can jump L1 and test to check the defrost system also, before you cut the wire tho.
Is it necessary to leave the jumper wire in place to test?

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