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GE GSS25XGNABB compressor won't turn on  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 04:27 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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jberens wrote: they are all reading 0 ohms. And this is a brand new motherboard. I'm getting confused.
what OHMS scale are you using ?

should be 200 OHMs scale with a digital meter 

 
I actually get 120V from line to comp, and from line to defr. 
then it's not in Defrost nor in Compressor mode

if you temporarily Jumper LINE to COMP, the Compressor should run



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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 05:42 am
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applianceman18007260692
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If you cannot get continuity between the pins she is shot Kimosabe. Time to refit with a new compressor.



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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 12:00 pm
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jberens wrote: ... I checked the continuity across the pins of the compressor ... every combination 0'd...

jberens wrote:
they are all reading 0 ohms....
applianceman18007260692 wrote:
If you cannot get continuity between the pins she is shot Kimosabe. Time to refit with a new compressor.
? ? ? ?



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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 12:45 pm
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jberens
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: jberens wrote: they are all reading 0 ohms. And this is a brand new motherboard. I'm getting confused.
what OHMS scale are you using ?

should be 200 OHMs scale with a digital meter 

 
I actually get 120V from line to comp, and from line to defr. 
then it's not in Defrost nor in Compressor mode

if you temporarily Jumper LINE to COMP, the Compressor should run


I was using the wrong scale.  When I use the 200 ohm scale, I get 6.3 from S to C, 4.3 from R to C, and 10.5 from R to S.  So that sounds more in line with expectations. 

What voltage should I be seeing from Comp to Line and from Comp to Defr?  How safe is it to jumper the pins on the motherboard from Comp to Line? 

Thanks for all the help and for putting up with a dumb mechanical engineer.

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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 12:47 pm
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jberens wrote: .. What voltage should I be seeing from Comp to Line and from Comp to Defr?  How safe is it to jumper the pins on the motherboard from Comp to Line? 
The MotherBoard acts like a Switch

It sometimes connects LINE to COMP

or

LINE to DEFR



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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 12:52 pm
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jberens
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This is a brand new board, Why wouldn't it be switching? Will I mess anything up by jumpering them?

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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 08:53 pm
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Okay, to recap where I am, compressor won't come on. When I plug the fridge in, the lights come and that's about it. I have replaced the motherboard with this one:



Here are the connectors on the motherboard for (starting at the top) COMP, DEFR, and LINE. With the fridge plugged in, I get 120V from LINE to COMP, and from LINE to DEFR.



Here's the compressor:



Compressor connections with PTCR and Overload. I get 0V across all combinations of orange, black, and white:



Capacitor which seems to be good. I connected the ohm meter and the value rose up past 1 then jumped to 1 and stayed there:



Here is the PTCR (relay) I'm getting 7.1 ohms across it. I tried prelacing it with a new one and nothing changed. I get about the same ohms across the new one.



Here is the overload. I get 0 ohms across it:



And here is the compressor without anything attached. Top pin is C, left is S, right is R. When I use the 200 ohm scale, I get 6.3 from S to C, 4.3 from R to C, and 10.5 from R to S:



I haven't tried jumpering the Line to Comp yet, just a bit timid I guess, will this screw anything up? Let me know if I missed any info. I have a new relay, new cap, and new overload I can put it, but the existing ones seem okay. This all started when one of the connectors that I thought was capped off touched what looked like a heatsink on the old motherboard and the compressor shut off. This is frustrating!

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 12:26 am
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jberens wrote: This is a brand new board, Why wouldn't it be switching? Will I mess anything up by jumpering them?

no,

jumping LINE to COMP should see if the Compressor runs ..

unless there is a short somewhere on the Compressor (or components/wiring_



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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 02:35 am
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jberens
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Jumped LINE to COMP and the compressor turned on!!! Now what? I hope you're not going to say new motherboard.

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 02:56 am
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The board is not switching, but make sure all the other inputs to the board are correct (control in and thermistors in), what is that small harness dangling to the right side of your photo?
Also, did you catch that part in the manual about replacing a bad fan prior to the control or risk blowing the board?



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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:01 am
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jberens
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I put the new fan in before I put the new board in. There are several harnesses that are dangling. They were never hooked up to my original board either. How do I check that the inputs are correct?

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:06 am
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See pages 39 through 48 of the manual that applianceman so graciously posted



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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:07 am
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applianceman18007260692 wrote: Use the force Luke



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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:16 am
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jberens
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I can't get into diagnostics mode. Everytime I try to hold all 4 down, one of the numbers changes. I can't get it to flash 0's even when I go ahead and hold them down.

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:25 am
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Try the procedure on page 33



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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:32 am
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that's what I'm doing. But get this, when I turned one of the temp control buttons all the way down to 0, both flash 0. As soon as I press the fridge temp control once, they both go to 5. I actually hit it three times so the freezer went to 5 and the fridge was on 7 and the compressor kicked on. It stayed on for about 4-5 minutes, now it's off again.

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:38 am
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Unplug the fridge for a few minutes, restore power and try again, hopefully it will go into diagnostic mode



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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:48 am
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jberens
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nope, it doesn't want to do it. I can get the comp to kick on for 5 minutes at a time, and that's about it.

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 03:59 am
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Durring the 5 minutes that the comp is running, if I turn the temp control back to the warmest setting such that they both blink "0", the comp will turn off.

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 04:16 am
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I wonder,

.....would a bad (shorted) defrost thermostat cause this condition? I mean, if hes getting power to BOTH the COMP and DEFR at the same time.....or possibly a bad evaporator thermistor?? (wrong resistance values)


hmmmmmmm........ (scratches head) :P



Last edited on Sun May 2nd, 2010 04:22 am by -=Xploitz=-

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