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GE GSS25XGNABB compressor won't turn on

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:19 am

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applianceman18007260692
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I like the old school meter where the needle jumps over if the dang thang is good.

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 10:52 am

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jberens
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I am not getting voltage at the relay. I get voltage at the wiring harness where I have one wire from the power cord and the orange and black wires going to the compressor. I get 120 from the power wire to black and from power wire to orange. When I plug the harnes in and measure at the compressor, I don't get anything across any of the leads.

At the motherboard, I checked at the J11 connector which has the 3 large connections labled comp, defr, and line. I do have 120 there. Is that where I should have checked at the motherboard? How and where do I jumper the thermostat?

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 02:53 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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MotherBoard:

LINE = 120v AC

COMP = 120v AC (but not if DEFR has = 120v AC)

If COMP = 120v AC, then:

Compressor:

Black to Overload = 120v AC

Start Relay is on the Neutral side

Orange is Neutral

check the resistance OHMS of the Compressor

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:02 pm

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jberens
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When I checked the 3 leads on the compressor, these are the Ohms I got, 4.3 ohms from S to C, and 3.4 from R to C, and 4.1 ohms from S to R.

I didn't get any voltage at the compressor.

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:10 pm

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-=Xploitz=-
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4.3 ohms from S to C, and 3.4 from R to C, and 4.1 ohms from S to R.

4.1 across Start and Run???? It "should" add up to (or be very close to) the sum of 4.3 & 3.4 which equals 7.7 ohms.

Also...no power to the compressors starting components?? And no power from the board at the comp terminal means its a probable open thermostat.

Last edited on Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:12 pm by -=Xploitz=-

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:12 pm

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jberens
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Which thermostat? The defrost thermostat?

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:13 pm

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-=Xploitz=-
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http://applianceguru.com/view_post.php?post_id=154050

To test the thermostat, jump it by disconnecting the 2 live wires and clip them together using an alligator test lead. This will bypass the cold control (thermostat) altogether and send current to the board...to the compressor.

Last edited on Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:17 pm by -=Xploitz=-

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:25 pm

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jberens
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I see that you mentioned the cold control thermostat, but I can't find it. The defrost is the only thermostat listed in my parts list:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5131395&diagram_id=21869026#d21869026

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 04:17 pm

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applianceman18007260692
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Do you have 120vac between the LINE and the COMP terminals on the board ? That ADC board is what controls the temp of this here ADC type ice box. See page 13

pss and gss service manual

Last edited on Fri Apr 30th, 2010 04:19 pm by applianceman18007260692

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 04:22 pm

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jberens
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Yes, I have 120 from Line to Comp.

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 04:54 pm

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applianceman18007260692
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Then you either have a bad compressor or a bad replay/overload. The purpose of the relay is to add power to multiple windings inside the compressor. When the motor inside gets up to speed the relay drops out the power to half of the windings. You have 3 pins on the compressor 1 is for common between the 2 windings the other 2 are start and run windings. If you is getting continuity between all 3 pins then the relay most likely has failed. Does the relay appear ok? does it have signs of electrical failure? If it sounds like a salt shaker inside then all of the innards are history amigo. I keep a all in one hard start with a power cord attached to it to check a compressor, but that is just me. It is best to replace the relay with the exactamundo if at all possible.

Last edited on Fri Apr 30th, 2010 04:57 pm by applianceman18007260692

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:01 pm

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jberens
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My new relay should arrive today, along with a new overload and cap if need be. I just can't figure out how to get the relay and overload out.

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:09 pm

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applianceman18007260692
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Usually a cover needs to come off, then I use a small flat blade to pry off the relay. If it is hard to come off then that is also a sign it has failed. You must be careful not to break a pin or you will lose the freon charge and ruin the compressor, and that wouldn't be good. Of course you want the ice box unplugged and it might not be a bad idea to wear latex gloves because you touching the wires coming from the board might spike the board with static shocktricity.

Last edited on Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:12 pm by applianceman18007260692

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:10 pm

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jberens
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Okay, the thing is at a tough angle to get at. I'll be careful. Thanks.

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:13 pm

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applianceman18007260692
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Wear rubber gloves to prevent messin up that control board with static electrical charge.Them wires you workin with go back to that board.

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Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:17 pm

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applianceman18007260692
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If you are using a droplight DON"T HANG IT ON THE ICE BOX> I saw a board get zapped by static electricity from a drop light. I kid you not.

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Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 01:46 am

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jberens
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good news is I got the overload and relay off. Bad news is that when I did, I checked the continuity across the pins of the compressor without anything attached, every combination 0'd. That means a new compressor, right?

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Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 03:01 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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jberens wrote: Yes, I have 120 from Line to Comp.
that means the MotherBoard is not sending voltage to the Compressor.

It may be in the Defrost Mode,

OR the Motherboard may be bad.

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Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 03:03 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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jberens wrote: ... continuity across the pins of the compressor without anything attached, every combination 0'd. That means a new compressor, right?
NO, the Compressor pins should read less than about 10 OHMS each.

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Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 03:49 am

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jberens
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they are all reading 0 ohms. And this is a brand new motherboard. I'm getting confused. I actually get 120V from line to comp, and from line to defr.

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