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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE GSS25XGNABB compressor won't turn on

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GE GSS25XGNABB compressor won't turn on  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 07:47 pm
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jberens
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Well, I had a bad evap fan, while looking at the motherboard to see if I had a bad resistor too, I think I shorted something.  One of the connectors that I thought was capped off touched what looked like a heatsink on the motherboard and the compressor shut off.  It hasn't come back on since.  I put a new motherboard in and the new fan should be in today or tomorrow.  How can I check my compressor to determine if I need a new one or if it's one of the other components?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 08:11 pm
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From http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/12/30/how-to-test-a-refrigerator-compressor-for-proper-operation/>>>>

http://www.mediafire.com/?wutgwlmdmim

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 08:34 pm
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jberens
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gracias, I know what I'm doing tonight. How do I know if I have run capacitors? Where would they be located?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 09:31 pm
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Run capacitor will be inline with the wiring going into your start relay and overload....it will look like this>>>







or like this>>>>


Last edited on Wed Apr 28th, 2010 09:34 pm by -=Xploitz=-

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 09:56 pm
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jberens
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For some reason I'm not seeing any picture, but here is what mine looks like:



Is there a cover that comes off so I can drain the capacitor?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 09:56 pm
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jberens
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now I see your pictures, weird. Same question about a cover though.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 02:32 am
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jberens
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Okay, couldn't figure out how to get the leads off the compressor, so I just unhooked the wiring harness and connected to the leads there. I had black, orange, and white. I believe black was C, white was S, and orange was R as black came straight from thecompressor to the harness, white ran between the capacitor and the compressor, and orange ran from the harness to the capacitor and to the compressor. If this is all correct, I got 4.3 ohms from S to C, and 3.4 from R to C. Just for fun I got 4.1 ohms from S to R.

I didn't get any readings from the ground test. So far the compressor checks out.

Looks like the overload and relay are inside the same protective plastic cap where the compressor leads are. Any idea how I get this off so I can do the direct wire test? If the direct wire thing works, how do I check the cap, overload, and the relay?

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:27 am
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Overload is just a Thermal Switch .. should show continuity ... 0 OHMS

Start Relay may "rattle" if bad ..

 



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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:32 am
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jberens
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Thanks. Any idea how to get the cover off? It's tucked in there a bit and I've pulled and pushed but so far I can't figure out the trick.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:45 am
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The run capacitor is parallel with the start terminal and the run terminal on the start relay....... The P.T.C.,, if good should, read about 2 to 20 ohms. ( at room temp. ) ........................a capacitor analyzer is recommended to test  a capacitor correctly...........but try this way...discharge cap.. set meter to10,000 ohm scale........  connect leads to cap. If reading stays low, bad cap....if reading goes up and back down = good cap.......not a proof positive test but works most of the time...... A thermal overload is a temp. sensitive switch......... room temp = closed......High current = open.....

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:47 am
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Its not advised to take it apart without first buying a relay and overload separately. You can take it apart, but there are ceramic disks in the relay that you could break. So be careful.

The leads that go into the "box" are locked in spade connectors. You'll need a jewelers screwdriver (or a very tiny one) to slide down the wire to unlock the spade and pull the wire out. Do this for each one.

As far as opening the "box" itself, once you got the wires out, you should see two "tabs" on each side that you can use a flat head screwdriver to open. Another one is hidden by the overload and will require some finesse to pry.

Or...you can just take a hammer and smash it to bits, but well, besides the obvious....you'll need that replacement relay and overload.

Best bet is to wait on your motherboard and not fu#k with the "box" (compressor starting components) until you install the new motherboard. The new motherboard will more than likely fix ya up.

Since you got the old motherboard out...do you see any burn spots on the back of the board by the compressor relay pin connections?..or in the PCB line?

Good luck, and please hold off till you get the motherboard.

Last edited on Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:49 am by -=Xploitz=-

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:48 am
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Various styles, some you need to just pry off..............some you use a flat blade screw driver and there is a small slot at the top, just pry down....... Picture maybe????

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:53 am
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Ohhh...lol..I thought he was talking about taking apart the relay and overload housing apart...LMFAO!!!. Sorry certified tech group 51:D

Yes, theres a spot on top where you can insert a flat head screwdriver so you can pry down and away from to "pop" it off.

Shake and it rattles...replace relay.

0 ohms on overload...Good overload. Open in overload at room temp...bad overload.

Last edited on Thu Apr 29th, 2010 03:54 am by -=Xploitz=-

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 12:20 pm
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jberens
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I do have the new motherboard in. I don't have a picture, if I can't get it off tonight, I'll take one. Here's a diagram of my fridge:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=21869032&pkw_=basket&model_id=5131395&NewWindow=1

734 is the cover I can't get off, there is a tab on the top that I could get a flat blade under, but looking at the metal part on the compressor that this goes over, it doesn't look like there's anything this top tab would latch on to. 733 is my relay and 735 is the overload. I may just go ahead and buy these two and a new cap and send back whatever doesn't fix it.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 12:49 pm
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It will come offf...pry and pull....use the force



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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 01:33 am
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Use the force Luke



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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:25 am
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jberens
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Okay, I got the cover off, how do I get the PTCR and overload out? I wiggled them for a while and nothing seemed to want to move. I checked the cap and my meter just sits at 1.00. doesn't got up or down, just 1. Is this my problem?

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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 03:33 am
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jberens
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Wait, I don't have 10K setting, I tried 20K and it would flash a number as soon as I touched the leads, then stay at 1. I moved up to the 200K scale and it would go a bit negative, then climb up past 1 then flash back to 1. I moved up the 2M scale and it did the same thing, just slower. It went past one, but then it didn't just gradually go back down to one, it just flashed back to one. What does this mean?

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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:10 am
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applianceman18007260692
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Open winding?



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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:16 am
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Capacitors usually hold up. It sounds like yours is "ok". Read my post above (10th up counting this one) on how to open it. Chances are that if you got a new motherboard installed (and your getting power to the relay and overload) that the relay needs to be replaced.

Are you getting voltage to the wires going into the relay and overload?? If not...check for power going out at the board. A bad "open" thermostat will cause you not to get power to the compressor as well. Try jumping the thermostat (cold control) and hopefully that will kick on your compressor. If it does, then replace the thermostat (cold control) :)

Last edited on Fri Apr 30th, 2010 05:18 am by -=Xploitz=-

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