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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Tired of searching...Sanyo SR-3770S relay

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Tired of searching...Sanyo SR-3770S relay  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Apr 22nd, 2010 10:02 pm
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robledjl
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i try to get 120v somewere in the protector but im not getting anything anywere. i did just like appl. tech said to do but i wasnt able to get 120v.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 22nd, 2010 10:06 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: Is it removable ?

Can you OHM across it ?

Can you take a better close-up picture it ? 



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 Posted: Thu Apr 22nd, 2010 10:20 pm
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robledjl
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im going to try to get better pictures of the back part...

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 Posted: Thu Apr 22nd, 2010 10:43 pm
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robledjl
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Hope this helps out more on my mission. hehehe

 

 

 

 

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 Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 03:42 am
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OK, like this Relay & Overload

click on picture

 

with the white Overload removed, check it's OHMs across it

also check the voltage across the (2) connectors it plugs into.

also from each of those connectors, to chassis (a good ground)



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 Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 01:24 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Also check your meter in a wall outlet to ensure your meter works



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 Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 07:11 pm
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robledjl
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i checked the meter to the wall and that works perfect but i think maybe the compressor is done because i couldnt see any voltage from the actual connectors...i just wasnt sure if i needed to buy new protector/ptc thermistor or was it the compressor??? maybe i need to pay someone to try to fix is or sell it as is...im just really not good with meters and stuff like that (detail)...i just hate to throw it away since it's brand new and i saw it at the store for over $200 so i figured i could fix it its just harder that i thought it was going to be. :(

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 Posted: Fri Apr 23rd, 2010 07:24 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
RegUS_PatOff wrote: ... Can you OHM across it ? ...



RegUS_PatOff wrote:
 ...
 with the white Overload removed, check it's OHMs across it

also check the voltage across the (2) connectors it plugs into.

also from each of those connectors, to chassis (a good ground)



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 Posted: Mon Apr 26th, 2010 06:44 am
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Got it figured out yet?  Connect one meter probe to the frame of the unit and the other end at these check points...... ( with 120v. at wall outlet) .....Step 1) 120v. at connection of the black and yellow crimped connection.....Step 2) 120v. at the gray wire with the pink terminal...  Step 3) with the thermal over load installed and gray wire attached,  do you get voltage at  the two lower terminals ??( on compressor )..........  You are looking for where  the volts are getting to......

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 01:36 am
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robledjl
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im not getting no voltage only where the yellow and black cable are crimped. everything else does not give me 120V. thanks for the help. i was out of town thts why i wasnt able to work on it.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 03:16 pm
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You only get voltage at the yellow/black connection?? It appears that your cold control went belly up........ Cut off the crimped terminal, install an insulated female terminal on the hot/black wire, and connect it to the thermal overload terminal...   Connect the neutral terminal to the upper right terminal of the start relay and plug it in .....compressor starts???  Buzz, click sound  ?????

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 Posted: Wed Apr 28th, 2010 04:28 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: voltage across Cold Control when turned ON =

voltage across Cold Control when turned OFF =

robledjl wrote:
off=120

on=0.920

Cold Control = OK



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 Posted: Thu Apr 29th, 2010 10:56 pm
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robledjl
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ok i see what you mean about connecting the black wire the was together  with the yellow one correct? so what do i do with the yellow wire? gray wire? is the gray wire the neutral wire you are talking about? i know but im new to this and dont want to mess up. :) i pretty much get the idea of cutting off the crimped wire i just want to make sure i got the right wires hooked up. yellow? gray? black with termial on it laready and black just cut off from crimped wire.

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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 01:37 am
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What we are doing is by passing the cold control, the yellow wire and the gray wire.........The black wire with the terminal still attached is  the neutral wire, that is installed on the run terminal of the start relay, upper right side......The black wire that you cut off is the hot/120 volt side.......install a insulated female terminal and install it on the thermal overload terminal..................you said  in your last post that you got NO voltage at the gray wire with the cold control set at half setting???

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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 07:34 pm
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robledjl
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WOW! thank you so much for that explanation that helps out a lot, yes i wasnt getting any voltage at all...so i'll do as you said and come back with the outcome! thanks for all your help

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 Posted: Fri Apr 30th, 2010 09:03 pm
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robledjl
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ok after doing as told by certified tech group 51, i was able to hear a humming/buzzing sound from the compressor it also sounds like water moving inside...so with that said what would be my problem or solution?

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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 12:55 am
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appl.tech.29501
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This would mean the cold control is bad....however let the unit run for a couple days to ensure it will cool properly...then order a cold control.



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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 01:32 am
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robledjl
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so there is no problem by leaving it hooked up the way i have it now? will it bee at the highest temp.?

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 Posted: Sat May 1st, 2010 01:51 am
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Where are your condenser coils ??? If left in this condition,  ( run all of the time )  you could over heat the compressor.................  Put a thermostat in the fresh food section, let it get down to 36 to 38 degs. and the unplug for the night............ plug it  back in , in the morning ....... let it cool down again only will take a few minutes................

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 Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2010 01:33 am
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robledjl
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so should i get a new cold control or should i just wait and see if it gets cold first?

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