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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Viking VCBB360 Refrigerator/Freezer cooling problem

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Viking VCBB360 Refrigerator/Freezer cooling problem  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Mar 22nd, 2010 08:42 pm
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hifi_hound
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I have a Viking VCBB360 Refrigerator that is not cooling properly in both the freezer and Refrigerator.  There are a couple of problems that I have noticed.  1.) The evaporator fan seems to be intermittent.  It comes on sometimes, and tries to start others only to fail.  2.) The light in the freezer was not going out and finally burnt out.  I suspected the freezer light switch and possibly the evaporator motor were causing the problems and was going to replace them, but the intermittent nature of the problem also made me wonder if it might be the control board.

I decided to have a technician come out to diagnose the problem, and he seems to think it is the control board.  He said the light switch was fine and after disassembling and reassembling the switch, the light does go out now.  After the tech left, I was checking some voltages on my own at the control board, and noticed fluctuation at the evaporator fan connection point (E2) and ground.  According to the partial service manual that I have the evaporator fan should read 120v.  Mine was reading 120v as the motor began to run, but then the voltage suddenly dropped to 16v, and the motor stopped, it then jumped back up to 120v, and then back down to 40v.  It definitely seems to be the control board that is the problem.

So, my question is should I replace the evaporator motor and and the light switch as well?  I read elsewhere on the forum that the motor can cause the problem in the control board.  I believe the post was regarding GE Profile refrigerators, so I wanted to see if this would apply to all refrigerators, or at least my model as well.  The light switch kind of seems like a no-brainer in that it is very cheap to replace, and the light was staying on until the tech worked on it.  I can't see the control board causing the light to stay on, but who knows.

Also, I would love to get a full VCBB360 service manual.  I have one for the Amana B136CAL1 which I believe is the exact same refrigerator, at least the shortened service manual matches my Viking manual exactly.  I found this link to the B136CAL1 manual on your site.

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/12074208.pdf

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 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 03:48 am
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appl.tech.29501
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no, the AC motors aren't effected by the board like the DC ones are...fan and light switch should be ok. However I would verify that the voltage is flucuating at the board first before you order the board... there might be a bad wire in between...if your loosing your power at the board like you were at the fan then you know its the board...thats where the fans power is derived from.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 04:39 am
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hifi_hound
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Thanks for the response.  I did take the measurements at the board with the connections on, so it sounds like it should be the board.  The light switch still has me worried though, as I can't figure out why the light would remain on one day, and then work after the tech removed it and reassembled it.  I'm just wondering if it could be failing.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 02:28 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Hard to say, the contacts could have beed stuck and just but poping it out it broke it free...probably not a bad idea to just replace it...not that expensive and piece of mind is priceless.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 05:13 am
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hifi_hound
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So I picked up the High Voltage board today and installed it.  Now the evaporator fan partially comes on and then fluctuates up and down never achieving full speed.  I tried to take a reading at the control board connection of the fan and ground and get an OL reading.  I'm not sure what that means as I was getting fluctuating readings on the old board, but nothing on the new board.  The fan does come on however but it is not functioning properly.  Does this mean it is the evaporator fan motor that is bad or burning out?

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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 08:32 am
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hifi_hound
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So, it turns out there was a bad connector at the evaporator motor.  One of the pins in the connector was arcing. I was able to crimp it to where it no longer arcs.  The fan is working great now.  It's too bad the tech didn't figure this out, as now I've spent money on a new control board, not to mention the money lost on the service call and hour of diagnosing it took to figure out it was the control board only to find out the board was good all along.  Oh well, at least it is working now.  Thanks for your help.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 08:48 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Good find! Bad connections at these harness connectors are an increasingly common problem on newer appliances. Thanks for posting your findings-- will serve as a good reminder to us all! :dude:



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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 01:32 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Not sure why you you were getting flucuating readings at the board as well...if the board was good it shouldn't have flucuated there



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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 08:47 pm
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hifi_hound
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I'm not sure why either, but I was taking the readings with the wires in place.  I don't know if the arc at the connection in the harness created the drop through the wires or what.  Maybe the board was damaged somehow from the arcing, I don't know because I just left the new board in.  It's all working good now though, so I'm happy about that.  Thanks everyone for your help.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 10:10 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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glad to help...i"d keep that old board for backup.



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