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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Compactor ram was "sticking" now doesnt work (Whirlpool GX900QPKS0)

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Compactor ram was "sticking" now doesnt work (Whirlpool GX900QPKS0)  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2010 07:42 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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DefiniteNovice wrote: ... What do I need to disconnect to deteremine where the problem lies?

... IF the Ram was at the "home" position (resting place)
 while you did the previous tests ...
(with power removed, of course)

 
disconnect one side of the Start Switch and test the Switch contacts (Y & V) while pushing & and not pushing ...



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 04:37 am
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I'm not sure if I'm testing these correctly. (ughh, I'm soo confussed)

The start switch has 3 wires connected to it. The yellow is attached to the lead marked Y (for yellow, I'm assuming?) However, the one that I would call violet is attached to the lead marked T-R, the one I would call the color of clay with a red line running through it, is attached to the lead marked with a V (violet?). This seems backwards to me.

I removed all wires and just touched my ohm meter to the leads marked with the Y and V and I get movement of the needle. No other combination results in movement.

On the top limit switch...I plugged in and tried to get the ram to go to the top again but it will start its movement then shut off.  The motor smells hot so I unplug it.  Shortly after, I can hear a click like maybe a protection switch has reset. Therefore, I cant get it to go back into it's uppermost position to test that switch. 

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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 04:46 am
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Certainly the V and TR wires should be attached to the corresponding terminals



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 04:50 am
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Some of them (integrated models) have a swall switch dow on the r.h. side which is operated by a plunger that moves inward when the pedal is lifted upward - noted in the document as a "tap-touch start"



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 04:50 am
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Has this ever worked correctly for you ?
 

DefiniteNovice wrote:
... I removed all wires and just touched my ohm meter to the leads marked with the Y and V and I get movement of the needle.. 

movement of the needle with & without pushing the Start Button ?

 

DefiniteNovice wrote: ... Therefore, I cant get it to go back into it's uppermost position to test that switch. 

You don't wan't it at the top ... back to "normal" "home" position



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 05:06 am
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Yes, it worked well for years, then it started making the noise when the ram reached the top. I could still get it to compact the trash manually. (I pressed the "on" button to get it to compact the trash and when it would reach the top and I heard the noise, I would just press the stop button.

The needle moves on the start switch with or without the start button pressed.


Oh, I dont know if you read the previous posts but I also replaced the door switch because at last,  pressing the "on and off" switch failed to work. So someone suggested it could be the door switch. That brought me back to this point. (the ram moves again but wont shut off.)

Last edited on Fri Feb 19th, 2010 05:10 am by DefiniteNovice

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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 06:25 am
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kdog wrote: Certainly the V and TR wires should be attached to the corresponding terminals
I would think so ...

Any chance the Start Switch was re-wired by someone ?

Has anyone worked on this problem before ?

I would also seem to think the Start Switch is bad.

 

 



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 01:05 pm
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your fightin me on this novice! get a new on-off-start switch bank and get on wit it! thought you determined 8 posts ago it was closed even when not being pressed...or am i missing something?;)



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 03:28 pm
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Ok... Here's what you're dealing with Kurtius....I used to work at the M&M factory.  I got fired for throwing away the W's.

You seemed confident 8 posts ago but I was under the impression that others weren't sure if the problem is the start switch or the top limit switch. 

My bad....I'll take your advice, get me a new start switch and "get on wit it ".

Thanks to all 

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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 04:34 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: Does your model have a Cycle Switch ?
DefiniteNovice wrote: no, it doesn't appear it does.
Then bottom wiring diagram ..
  

KurtiusInterupptus wrote:
... thought you determined 8 posts ago it was closed even when not being pressed...or am i missing something?;)
It could be a bad Start Switch (and/or wired wrong), but,

looking at the bottom wiring diagram, the Momentary Start Switch is in parallel with the Top-Limit Directional Switch

either one could be bad ...

that's why the extra tests on the Start Switch when disconnected ..



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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2010 06:30 pm
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I am obviously not a tech but made sense to me, RegUS.  My initial intuition was the top limit switch but again I'm no tech.

Wish me luck!! 

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 Posted: Sat Feb 20th, 2010 01:52 am
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When the ram is in the up position, V to Y should be open on the directional switch (measure switch terminals with leads disconnected). The ram needs to press the actuator arm to do this (this is why I questioned the powernuts). The T/R and V leads need to be connected to the proper terminals on the switch. If you measure T/R to Y terminals on the switch (again, leads disconnected) there should be no circuit (no meter needle deflection), if there is, then the start switch needs to be replaced



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 Posted: Sat Feb 20th, 2010 03:26 am
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you are right as usual reg,but i also see alot more of the failed start switches, be it pts or tap-touch, than i do the upper limit, and i think he has already proven it is stuck...are you suggesting the limit is also bad?



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 Posted: Wed Mar 3rd, 2010 07:27 pm
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I now have a new door switch and a new start switch.  We seem to have taken care of my previous problems but now when the motor starts and the ram begins to move up or down, it will stop midway and the motor smells hot.  Once it has cooled, it will start again on it's own and return to it's resting place.

Any thoughts???

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 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 05:46 am
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kdog wrote: remove the top and get an eye on the teflon "powernuts" which are the male threaded inserts inside the 2 brackets that attach to the top of the ram. One or both may have worn and not allow proper positioning to operate switch - replace them as a pair



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 07:59 pm
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I finally got back to this project!

I removed the top cover. The diagram of my compactor at RepairClinic.com shows an upper and a lower power nut.  All I see are the lower ones and I can get to them better from under the ram but I cant figure out how to remove them to inspect.


Side note: When I press Start, the ram goes up then down on, up then down but only moves about a half inch each way like it's confused which way to go before it shuts itself off. 


I also removed the cover from the bottom and inspected the chain and drive gears. They "appear" to be in good condition.  


 

Last edited on Thu Mar 11th, 2010 08:28 pm by DefiniteNovice

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 10:30 pm
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does this unit have a tilt switch? if so turn it off it can make the motor go back and forth and so can welded contacts in the motor switch. with the hot motor smell your having my guess would be the motor switch.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 05:50 pm
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Yes, there is a tilt switch...I removed the BR wire and BU wires from the motor centrifugal switch and tested them with ohm meter. When drawer is both in AND out I get continuity. So does this tell me I need to replace the tilt switch?

At repairclinic.com, they only list a "door switch".  I ordered this part and replaced my 'drawer safely switch' initially.  Are these identical switches? (tilt switch and door safety switch)

On the motor centrifugal switch...I removed the upper BR wire and lower BU wire and also the upper BU and lower BR wire (wasn't sure which was right so I did both) and got continuity each time.  Does this tell me the switch is working?   

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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 10:40 pm
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Is the tilt switch turned "on" or "off" if its "off" you shouldnt read continuity because its a normally open switch.If the switch was turned on then you would have read continuity.

on the motor switch were you reading the motor switch leads or the wires after you removed them? need to read the actual motor switch leads without wires plugged to them



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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 11:07 pm
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The tilt switch (if I am understanding this right) is a switch (just like the drawer safety switch) that goes in when the door closes and pops out when the door opens.  It's located on the right front of the compactor so it doesn't turn 'on' and 'off'. 

I was touching the leads on the motor switch after I removed the wires. 

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