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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher Paykal DD603 HFD - F1 fallout |
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| Fisher Paykal DD603 HFD - F1 fallout | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 10:35 pm |
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1st Post |
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ultraoffshore Grasshopper
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Hello, I have had a small leak probably caused by dishes stacked too high - not much water but enough to cause a fair bit of damage The fault occurred towards the end of a cycle and manifested itself with some pops and flashing. The centre light on the upper, unused, drawer turned red and it started to beep. Then that expensive smell became evident. Powered everything down - checked and found water, some half a cup, in the bottom of the cabinet. Got the service manual from your fabulous site dried everything out with a hair drier and tried again. On power up: Top drawer
Start up again and discover lower drawer heating element still receiving power. Shut down and find the following damage:
Heating element:
No joy - even when disconnecting the lower tub at the tub and the lid actuators on the chassis board. And then disconnecting the lower drawer connector from the chassis board. When I put power on I get the F1 beeping and the top drawer starts to pump out even though it is empty. I even lifted on leg of the flood sensor hoping that would get the top going but no joy. Does this indicate there is a fault on the top drawer too or is the system looking for the lower controller? Can I put a link in anywhere to simulate the presence of a lower drawer? *Back to the parts. The Parts manual 599084 doesn't list the FHD model. Is it the same chassis board: Item15 page 13
Item 12 Page 17
The reason I ask about the part numbers is that on the the controller I have the number 528610032290 and on the chassis brd 528599022195. Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Regards A.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 08:57 am |
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2nd Post |
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J5 Master Appliantologist
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if the bottom drawer is out the top drawer will go F1 as you have found chassis board is the same for them all controller is basically the same for both , difference being if the time is in minutes or hours and minutes AFAIK , either will work
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| Posted: Sun Dec 6th, 2009 02:20 pm |
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3rd Post |
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ultraoffshore Grasshopper
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Hello, I have installed a Main Controller (door) and Main filter card (in base) and I got the top drawer to function OK Lower drawer still not working. Ran diagnostics and they fill valve did not operate on the lower drawer. I then disconnected to the connectors on the fill valve and connected the lower drawer contorller to the upper valve and could fill the upper drawer with the lower drawer controller. I then connected the upper drawer controller to the lower drawer valve but could not fill the lower drawer. I then swapped the connectors back to standard and noticed that the lower valve plastic body was deformed making it difficult to make the connector. (Big clue that I ignored) When the connecters were connected I switched the machine on and the upper drawer immediately started to fill. I notice now that the upper valve body is now deformed When checking the voltages I have 60 Vdc on the upper valve connector all the time and 0 to 60 V dc on the lower connecter when I give the fill valve command in diagnostics. I see from the manual that these valves should be 24 V dc. The part number on the valve is 529730. Is this a 24 V valve or a 60 V valve? I see fgrom the parts manual that numbers are 526850 VALVE INLET DOUBLE W/SOFT DH or 525113 VALVE INLET DOUBLE D Any ideas why I have 60 V on the upper drawer all the time? Have I fried this controller during my fault finding? Regards Andrew
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| Current time is 08:57 pm | |
| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher Paykal DD603 HFD - F1 fallout | Top |
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