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WhirlPool Stove SF330PEW  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 05:26 am
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jonbarr62
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The Stove oven pilot light ignites but the burner will not come on. Any suggestions?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 11:45 am
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Whirlpool SF330PEW Wiring Diagram shows an Oven Spark Ignitor..

Parts List shows a Oven Glow Ignitor ...

which one do you have ?

If it's the Glow Ignitor, they get weak.

If you could measure the current draw, it should be about 2.8A to 3.2A after 30 seconds ...

if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you

sometimes on sale... bring print-out to store 
 

click on picture 96308   $ 12.99    coupon 11/16/09 click here






click on picture 95683   $ 19.99

 




click on picture 95652   $ 19.99

 
 


link Harbor Freight Digital Clamp Meters



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 Posted: Fri Nov 13th, 2009 10:41 pm
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jonbarr62
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The oven does ignite but with just a small pilot. The oven does not fully ignite. Would a defective thermst cause this problem?..what are the signs for a defective therm.?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 10:33 am
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Whirlpool SF330PEW Wiring Diagram shows an Oven Spark Ignitor..

Parts List shows a Oven Glow Ignitor ...

which one do you have ?




Weirdness! and to make things weirderer, jonbarr offers the following additional comment...

The oven does ignite but with just a small pilot. The oven does not fully ignite.

... which would seem to indicate a standing pilot ignition.

So, three possible ignition systems here and the literature we find doesn't clarify. It's up to you jonbarr, as the designated eyeballs on the scene. Take a picture of your oven ignition system and post it here so we can see whatcha got.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 12:43 pm
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jonbarr62
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Yes , I see a small pilot light lit, hitting the sensor. I tried cleaning the sensor. problem still exist. This sensor has a copper wire running along the backside of the stove. I believe this runs to either another valve or thermostat. I am not sure. I would have to take another visual look.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 01:54 pm
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Post some pitchers so we can get some eyeball action going!



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 08:45 am
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jonbarr62 wrote: Yes , I see a small pilot light lit, hitting the sensor. I tried cleaning the sensor. problem still exist. This sensor has a copper wire running along the backside of the stove. I believe this runs to either another valve or thermostat. I am not sure. I would have to take another visual look.
Sounds like a standard MSC style safety valve system.  You may just need to clean out the pilot oriface.

You should see a small pilot burning if standing pilot or if it is a spark ignitor than a large pilot should be engulfing the little sensor bulb.  If the pilot orifice gets plugged it won't create enough heat to open the safety valve correctly.

On a standing pilot system, when the oven t-stat is turned on the secondary pilot flame is turned on to heat the sensor bulb.  If it's a spark ignitor the pilot flame should light up full heat, (primary and secondary), flame at the same time, then when the oven t-stat is satisfied the secondary pilot will shut down and let the sensor bulb cool.  The oven t-stat controls the secondary pilot on/off to modulate the oven temp.

A quick test would be to turn the oven on and then give the pilot a little extra help with a bbq lighter heating the sensor bulb, (make sure to keep your arm and hand down low and away from the main burner).

The problem we seem to have about looking up parts is the incomplete model# given: SF330PEW

SF330PEWN0

SF330PEWN2

SF330PEWN3

SF330PEWN4

SF330PEWN5

SF330PEWN6

SF330PEWN7

SF330PEWN8

SF330PEWQ0

SF330PEWQ1

SF330PEWQ2

SF330PEWQ3

SF330PEWQ4

SF330PEWW0

SF330PEWW2

SF330PEWW3

SF330PEWW4

SF330PEWW5

SF330PEWW6

SF330PEWW7

SF330PEWW8

SF330PEWW9

SF330PEWZ0

SF330PEWZ1

Last edited on Sun Nov 15th, 2009 08:56 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 10:13 am
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ahh, yes,

the models with the Spark Ignitor use a Gas Safety Valve with a built-in Thermocouple

click on picture




either:

The Pilot Flame isn't large enough (dirty orifice)

The Thermocoupler isn't close enough to the Pilot Flame

The Thermocouple (Gas Valve assembly) is bad


 

for whatever reason, the following model numbers that I placed an "x" after use Spark Ignitors

SF310PEWW0
SF310PEWW2
SF310PEWW3
SF316PEWN0
SF316PEWW0
SF3300EWW0
SF3300EWW1
SF330PEWN0
SF330PEWN2
SF330PEWN3
SF330PEWN4
SF330PEWN5
SF330PEWN6
SF330PEWN7 x
SF330PEWN8 x
SF330PEWQ0
SF330PEWQ1
SF330PEWQ2
SF330PEWQ3 x
SF330PEWQ4 x
SF330PEWW0
SF330PEWW2
SF330PEWW3
SF330PEWW4
SF330PEWW5
SF330PEWW6
SF330PEWW7
SF330PEWW8 x
SF330PEWW9 x
SF330PEWZ0 x
SF330PEWZ1 x
 



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 04:37 pm
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jonbarr62
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The model is SF330PEWQ4. I did pull out the sensor bulb some and try to clean off the end. The pilot oriface appeared to be clear. What i dont remember seeing was the safety valve. I am sure it was there, I just did not recongize it. I will try to buffer the pilot with a lighter and see if that works. Is there a test that can be done on the safety valve out of circuit?...Thank you thus far.

Last edited on Sun Nov 15th, 2009 04:51 pm by jonbarr62

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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 09:03 pm
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jonbarr62 wrote:
The pilot oriface appeared to be clear.

Unless you have a Certification of Calibrated Eyeballs, you cannot possibly tell the orifice "appears to be clear."

Remove orifice, apply several drops of isopropyl alcohol and blow out the gookus with compressed air at 80 to 100 psig using a rubber-tipped air nozzle. Then, and only then, can you assume the orifice is undefiled.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 10:40 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Post some pitchers so we can get some eyeball action going!


yep even those peepers couldn"t tell...haha



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 08:22 pm
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jonbarr62
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Can someone tell me if there is always gas present on the input of the gas safety valve...or is it just present when you turn on the oven and get the pilot light ignited.The question being....I had removed the saftey valve and found the sensing line was broken. I dismantled the valve and reassembled the valve so it would stay open. I was able to test the rest of the oven. The oven did ignite and regulate temperature. The Oven did shut off when the knob was turned to off. Should there be any concern of the saftety valve staying open, with the oven knob turned to off, until I can get my replacement part?...

Last edited on Fri Nov 20th, 2009 08:33 pm by jonbarr62

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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 10:24 pm
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jonbarr62 wrote: ... I dismantled the valve and reassembled the valve so it would stay open....
:burning:WHOA, the Gas Safety Valve is the ONLY thing to control the Gas flow ON/OFF. :burning:



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 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 10:38 pm
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jonbarr62 sounds like he has a death wish....get the gas turned off to this oven before someone gets killed....never heard anything like this being done to a gas range...



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 01:14 am
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jonbarr62 wrote:
. I dismantled the valve and reassembled the valve so it would stay open.

House go boom. Pants go brown.



Shut the gas off NOW!



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:14 am
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jonbarr62
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ok...but my question was not answered. Is there gas present  at the intake of the safety gas valve when the oven knob is in the off position?

Last edited on Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:19 am by jonbarr62

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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:31 am
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Apparently not  somehow in your case or you would no longer be able to post since your house with your computer in it would have blown up by now??  The safety is opened by the heat of the pilot flame if I read this thread correctly.....now if you have the valve jammed open like you say and the gas was on to the range/oven it would be spewing gas into the house with no way to stop it without turning the gas off behind the stove or at the gas meter....sooooooooooo this tells us you do not have it jammed open like you posted.....since either the whole block would have blown up by now or your whole range with your kitchen and house would be burned down by now into smoldering ruins.....you really do need to call out a professional tech before you do hurt yourself and/or others....this is no joking matter anymore...call out a pro.....



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:32 am
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I followed the tubing from the  oven temp therm control. There are two tubes. One small one that goes to the pilot and one larger tube that goes to the safety valve. I am assuming that since I was actually able to get the oven started and the temp did regulate, and I was able to shut the main oven burner off, that there is no gas at the intake of the safety valve when the oven temp control is in the off position. Would you say that the safety valve is actually the second gas valve and the oven temp control is the first valve in line that needs to open?...please explain...

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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:48 am
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: the Gas Safety Valve is the ONLY thing to control the Gas flow ON/OFF.
what's to explain ?

jonbarr62 wrote:
 Is there gas present  at the intake of the safety gas valve when the oven knob is in the off position?
YES



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 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 03:12 am
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The oven temp control must interupt the gas flow to the safety valve some how when in the off position. I do not hear or smell gas in the main oven burner. Correct me if I am wrong please.

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