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Whirlpool Gas oven will not light GS440LEMT4

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Posted: Mon Nov 9th, 2009 04:01 am

ramalama32
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The stove will not light. After reading the tips on testing the amps on the igniter ( respective amp draw was not present) I changed the igniter. The unit still will not fire. I set the unit on preheat Bake- then "on", it clicks twice and then nothing. I replaced the broiler igniter as well and turned it on and no clicks and no flame. I have not put an amp meter on them since replacing, Is it the gas valve?
The stove burners work just fine, do they use the same gas valve?

What do I need to do?

Last edited on Mon Nov 9th, 2009 12:28 pm by ramalama32

Posted: Mon Nov 9th, 2009 06:00 am

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... should have came here sooner ...

Your Oven doesn't use "glow ignitors"

It uses high-voltage Spark Ignitors controlled by Spark Module.

Gas Valves also controlled by Spark Module.

GS440LEMT4 Tech Sheets

Last edited on Mon Nov 9th, 2009 04:51 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Mon Nov 9th, 2009 12:31 pm

ramalama32
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Thanks for the data sheet, I put the correct igniters in the unit, but mentioned the glow comment. So what else should I be looking for if the "correct" igniters did not work? Is there a fuse or something on the electrical? Or is it the gas valve?

Posted: Mon Nov 9th, 2009 01:36 pm

Chat_in_RI
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ramalama32 wrote: I set the unit on preheat Bake- then "on", it clicks twice and then nothing. I replaced the broiler igniter as well and turned it on and no clicks and no flame.
What do I need to do?

Do the clicks sound like a relay on the control board, or are they sparks at the igniter? My hunch (without more information) is the Spark_Module.

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Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 12:09 pm

ramalama32
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The igniters have not shown the first spark. Is there any information that I can provide before I buy the spark module for $123 based on a hunch?

Last edited on Tue Nov 10th, 2009 12:09 pm by ramalama32

Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 12:18 pm

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test for Line voltage at Spark Module pin 6 to chassis, and pin 7 to chassis, while in the Bake and Broil modes ...

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Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 02:03 am

ramalama32
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We tested the spark module at the correct pins we believe, and deduced that we needed a new spark module. I put the new module in and still have the same problem. If that is ruled out as well as the igniters, what else could keep this unit from lighting?
Frustrated!!

Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 10:41 am

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ramalama32 wrote:
We tested the spark module at the correct pins we believe, and deduced that we needed a new spark module.

Did you have 120vac at pin 6 to chassis and pin 7 to chassis? ... or not?

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Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 10:47 am

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Re-reading some of your posts, it sounds like you had spark at first, then no spark. If true, then the ignition system could be locking out from a failed ignition. Failed ignition may be due to a misalignment between the ignitor and the burner. There's a new burner kit (<--LINK) out to correct this. See the attached pic.

Attachment: 41771.jpg (Downloaded 21 times)

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Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 03:57 pm

ramalama32
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We did not have 120vac to either pin

Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 06:39 pm

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ramalama32 wrote: We did not have 120vac to either pin
then it wouldn't be a bad Spark Module ...

It's not getting power from the Oven Controller ...

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Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 12:17 pm

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Hey guys- this is my last attempt before I call an appliance repair man and spend money I don't have, or buy a new stove.
I replaced the igniters- no good, I replaced the spark module- no good, I do not have 24vac on pin 6 and 7, and now you are saying "I'm not getting power from the oven controller". If I am about to replace the oven control ($230+) This stove is totaled, right? Sorry for being the true novice on the forum, but I need a point by point answer on what I should do.
Thanks

Last edited on Fri Nov 20th, 2009 12:17 pm by ramalama32

Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 12:26 pm

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ramalama32 wrote: ... Hey guys- this is my last attempt before I call an appliance repair man...I replaced the igniters- no good, I replaced the spark module- no good, I do not have 24vac on pin 6 and 7, and now you are saying "I'm not getting power from the oven controller".

(should have came sooner here and asked before replacing all those parts)

For $ 70 he may tell you the same thing

... it should be 120v AC on pins 6 & 7 (to Neutral)) when the Oven Control (Bake & Broil) is ON

for future reference:

Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition
within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).

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Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 12:30 pm

ramalama32
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I did buy the parts here, and I will return them. But the unit still does not work, so I need that next tip. Are you saying that it is the oven controller based on the logic of other failed parts?

Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 01:38 pm

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Yes, if you're checking the right pins/ voltages / at the right time (conditions).

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