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viking dishwasher  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 12:43 pm
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justtryin
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the installation packet says to remove knobs on the outside panel first,  then to remove the screws on the  panel to remove it.  Well, the knobs do not unscrew in a counterclockwise rotation, nor do they release by manipulating the silver rings around them, unless I am not doing something right.  Can I release the knobs once I get the panel off? I have the new timer, it doesn't seem difficult to replace, am I correct?

VUD 141 viking dishwasher about 7 yrs old

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 12:15 am
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If I'm remembering raht (many brewskis ago), the knobs just pull off. See the attached picture for more.

Attachment: viking dishwasher door panel removal.png (Downloaded 53 times)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 03:59 pm
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justtryin
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Well, I've tried simply pulling them out as the diagram shows, no luck. There is a silver bezel surrounding them, and I can't seem to budge those either. Pulling at the knobs and turning counterclockwise is not working. Should I put a screwdriver between the knob and bezel to see if I can pry them out, or is there a better way? There must be a simple solution I am missing. thanks

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 04:40 pm
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kdog
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place a rag over the pinched portion of the knob(to prevent damage) and get a grip on them with a solid pair of pliers and give a good tug



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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 06:12 pm
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justtryin
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thank you. that worked.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 10:07 pm
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justtryin
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hello again. bigger problem now. I bought the timer, installed the timer, and now I am $120 poorer and without a working dishwasher. The repairman who came to my house and said it was a timer issue, apparently was wrong. They took forever to get the part, so I did. And once I looked at the schematic, I thought I could do it. I don't think I did anything wrong, and the machine is working--but just as before. So.....that initial problem was this: suddenly, the dishwasher would start wherever I began it--power, normal, or light. But it only released water at that first "stop" and never again. It wouldn't give water at the rinse or wash of any of the remaining cycles, and it never worked through the actual rinse phase. It did, however, power through the entire wash cycle--from wherever I began it till the very end, just without water. I should tell you, however, it seems to be releasing water in a "bubbling" fashion when it is time for water. Just very little. There is no water left in the bottom at the end, so I don't think it is an overflow situation. I would love to get to the bottom of this...please help. Thanks

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 Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 11:02 pm
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It could be a lazy Water Inlet Valve.

Check the voltage at the Valve while it should be filling, but isn't.

for future reference:

Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition
within 30 days for a refund (less shipping)



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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 05:13 am
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kdog
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Check and make sure the float mechanism isn't hanging up



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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 12:53 pm
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justtryin
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i really don't know wha i am talking about, but does voltage just lose "umph" over time, because it had been working fine for 7 years...

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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 12:56 pm
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justtryin
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is the float mechanism something i can easily access? can you tell me how to get to it? thanks

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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 01:53 pm
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justtryin wrote: ... does voltage just lose "umph" over time, because it had been working fine for 7 years...
no, but if the Water Valve has the 120v and it isn't working, it's gone bad.

VUD141 Parts List & Diagrams



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 Posted: Thu Nov 12th, 2009 02:27 am
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justtryin
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how am I to access the float mechanism? I unscrewed the large filter and removed the small floor panel, but then there is a small amount of water and some tunnels leading out. Is the next access available only by pulling out the washer itself?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 03:41 pm
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justtryin
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how am I to access the float mechanism? I unscrewed the large filter and removed the small floor panel, but then there is a small amount of water and some tunnels leading out. Is the next access available only by pulling out the washer itself?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 04:19 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This one is like the Bosch's... in fact, it may BE a Bosch in drag. Anywho, the float is in the plastic sump pan. It's a piece of foam, really.

Did you download the manual from the repair manual stash? I'll save you the trip and PM you the link. :afro:



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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 05:15 pm
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justtryin
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Thanks!---but the manual link seems incomplete to me, and also does not have any info on the float mechanism.  Is the plastic sump pan the visible cavity on the bottom of the dishwasher?  Without pulling out the washer, I believe I've unscrewed the only two parts that can be removed. Would the float be visible to the eye at this point? Can I see the the plastic sump pan?

Sorry these questions are so basic.....

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 05:19 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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justtryin wrote:
but the manual link seems incomplete to me,

Whaddya mean incomplete? Does it work or doesn't it?


and also does not have any info on the float mechanism. 

Oui, oui. And all your other questions are answered in Le Manuel.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 05:33 pm
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justtryin
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The "manual" is 6 pages in length and consists only of one-page service bulletins which relate to problems other than mine--such drain connections and hardware kits.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 14th, 2009 05:57 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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OK, I just downloaded it. The manual is 20 pages and has info on the float on pages 18 and 20. Try 'er again.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 15th, 2009 02:26 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus
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this viking POS is made by ASKO- the float switch in the bottom pan (alluded to by our fearless leader as merely a chunk of Styrofoam) is actually a flood switch... it does not control water entering the unit but instead turns on the drain pump when the bottom pan floods with water.

this machine uses a pressure switch much like a clothes washer to control the amount of water entering the DW.

also i agree with regus...suspect a gimpy inlet valve with the test method already described...120vac + no water =bad valve

Last edited on Sun Nov 15th, 2009 02:33 pm by KurtiusInterupptus



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