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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Estate/Whirlpool Ice Maker |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Estate/Whirlpool Ice Maker |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| Estate/Whirlpool Ice Maker | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Aug 4th, 2005 05:27 am |
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1st Post |
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joaquinponce Grasshopper
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Ok, I have an Estate by Whirlpool (ts25afxkqs02) side by side frig. with what I believe is a whirlpool ice maker. One day it just stopped making ice. Yes the wire is down. It did not rake the last batch of ice that it made. My friend with mulitmeter came over. He tested the wire that connects to the water dispenser valve and there was 120v when you pressed the water dispenser in. He said he tested the ice maker wire and there was not 120v there, but also we did not know we had to start a cycle first. He said he tested the continuity of the valve and it was good. This made us think it was whatever "calls" for the water was the issue, which we thought was the control module. I have the one that says "Do not turn manually". I ordered a new one and just put it in but still no water. In reading through this and other sites, I read somewhere that it is the thermostat in the ice maker that triggers the rake to eject the ice. Since it did not eject the last batch that it made we are now thinking maybe the thermostat is the problem since the module was not. We used a jumper from T to H to start the cycle (even though I think pluging it in starts it as well ) and still no water with new module. We had the thought to check for 120v on the wire that plugs into the ice maker side of the valve but didn't think that if the thermostat was bad that it would send 120v to the valve anyway. We are just thinking about getting a new thermostat and seeing if that works. Can someone confirm that if the thermostat in the ice maker was bad it would halt the cycle there( raking the cubes ) and not "call" for water even once we manually took the cubes out? Or just tell me what you think...... Last edited on Thu Aug 4th, 2005 05:31 am by joaquinponce |
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| Posted: Thu Aug 4th, 2005 02:03 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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The thermostat in the ice maker head starts the harvest cycle when it reached aprox 14 degrees, the IM goes thru the harvest cycle, calls for water for aprox 8 seconds and then stalls, waiting to freeze again. The freeze time depends on how cold the freezer is, must be at least 10 degrees in the freezer, but this time is about 2 hours. The harvest time is just under 5 minutes. Jumping T-H by-passes this thermostat so you can advance the ice maker. If you got 120 volts at the fill valve in the 8 seconds it calls for water then the ice maker side of the fill valve is bad and the whole valve must be replaced. Now if the ice maker will not start on its own could either be the board or the thermostat or the on/off arm is not into the front holder correcly. This is why we replace the whole ice maker and not just the boards, covers everything. The ice maker will not start on its own when plugged in as the thermostat has to get cold enough to start the ice maker which might take 1-2 hours. Go direct to the ice maker side of the fill valve with a test cord to see if it opens and gives good water flow when voltage is applied to it direct. The coils checking good does not tell you if the valve will open to give water when the ice maker calls for it. They go bad internally also.
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