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DD603 - no power on top drawer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Sep 2nd, 2009 10:40 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Hi, the top drawer on my DD603 stopped working at the start of a wash cycle (there's a caustic smell to the water sitting in the base).

The bottom drawer works fine, but the top drawer doesn't register any power.  I've swapped out the control boards (which are both pretty new anyway) and it still doesn't work.  I also swapped over the LCD modules - still not showing any power on the top drawer.

Looking at the wiring diagram for this model, I can see that there are two live wires that come into the control board - I've tested these and they are both showing the correct voltage, so there's power going into the control board.

The wiring diagram also shows the these two live wires continue over the heater plate, and I notice that there's a thermal fuse in there.

I'm guessing that the thermal fuse has failed - would this be a reasonable assumption?

If so:
- how do I remove the thermal fuse?
- is it a replaceable part? (i.e. can I purchase it from F&P - I've read that it is simply solder)
- if a thermal fuse has gone, does this mean that there is another issue with the heating plate, or is this a part that regularly goes?

Could it also be something else?

Thanks heaps,

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 Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 11:27 am
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J5

 

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thermal fuse is on the heater plate and is not replaceable

sometimes they just burn out , check all componants resistance as if there is a short in something the extra current is dumped through the heater , rare but can happen

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 Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 09:11 am
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fixit45
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How did you get on with this .. sounds like you needed to replace the heater plate.  In Oz this now comes  as a kit with new sealing rings ... a bit hard to install.. did one rececently..

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 Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 10:26 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Haven't had a chance to pull it apart yet, been too damn busy working on the rest of the house!

Do you know if the fuse can be repaired?  I read that someone had tried to solder it up with mixed results.

Otherwise I'll just get the new part - do you know what the part no. is?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 04:41 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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(Tubs and components)

Heater plate 527702

FP DD603 Parts List & Diagrams



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 Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2009 09:46 am
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fixit45
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When you come to replace heater plate have a look at my post "fisher & paykel DD603 heater plate fuse burnt out." ( not sure how to give link to this post..)  includes a comment from someone else as well... I used new seals and they are a bit tight.. but certainly have not leaked!..You will need to follow the manual  but it is not that hard.

remember: if running diagnostics.. dont test element without water in the tub.. . it may overheat..

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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 05:37 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Didn't see your post, have just pulled it apart to fix it - damn I love this dishwasher, it's so easy to fix.

Anyway, popped out the heater plate, and sure enough the thermal fuse was a bit cruddy, and actually fell off quite easily - just looks old and oxidized, no discernable issues with shorts etc.  On consultation with my dad (as usual), we worked out what type of wire and how many strands to replace it with.  Initially went one strand less than what we worked out to be on the safe side (i.e. would rather it burnt out before a major melt down).  Soldered it in, cleaned up all the mating surfaces for the seals, and put it all back together again.

Doing a test wash now, and no leaks, and water has heated sucessfully, so all looking good.  Will try and find the thread you mention to make sure I haven't missed anything, but all looking good at the moment.

Thx for the help guys.

Last edited on Sat Sep 12th, 2009 05:40 am by m_ouwerkerk

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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 05:56 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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It's a thermal fuse, not a current fuse ..

268C – 302C (514F – 576F)



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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 10:56 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Yes fair point - next will try and source some suitable temp sensitive fuse wire to fix it up properly.  I hate buying new when there's a chance of fixing things.  At the moment it's electrically safe, and we don't run it when we are out of the house ever.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 02:41 am
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fixit45
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I think RegUS  is right here.  Sounds very  risky to me !!

I had same idea when mine failed but decided against it..   I think your  fuse looked cruddy because it got overheated.... if the heater plate gets overheated again and there is  no thermal fuse... ?? you might smell the plastic in the tub geting a bit hot.. or worse, .

If you can source thermal fuse that would be great.. 

I have three of these machines in family and friends and have only one of these fail in five years, and that was because of a fault in the controller board which then  kept the heater on..

 

 

 

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 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 11:40 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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I've previously replaced the controller boards (on both drawers), so maybe that is what caused it - hopefully won't be a problem now.  Anyway, I'll try and source some thermal fuse wire that can be soldered, otherwise will fork out for a new heating plate.  It's working great at the moment, and the fire extinguisher is on standby.....

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 Posted: Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 01:55 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Hi, I'm looking at a fix for the thermal fuse now, and the thermal fuse is pretty old school now apparently - I've been told that a Microtemp thermal fuse is now the way to go.  I can get one of these really cheap of ebay, and they will do temperatures up to 275 degrees Celcius, which is right in the correct range, and it should solder right onto the heater plate no probs.

The cost is all of about $US4, + postage, which beats buying a new heating plate.

Does anyone have any thoughts on using a Microtemp thermal fuse?  i.e. any specific issues which will prevent me from using this?

Thanks

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 Posted: Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 04:20 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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I'm not familiar with that F&P Heating Plate .. will that Fuse physically fit OK ?



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 Posted: Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 04:35 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Yeah, should be fine - the fuse is about 13mm long, and that's a bit longer than required (from what I remember it looks like) to complete the circuit on the heating plate.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 05:37 am
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I was thinking about the thickness,  .. clearance  ....



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 Posted: Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 05:40 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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Should also be fine, the thermal wire sits on the underside, and when I pulled the heater plate out, it was sitting up about 3-4 millimetres, and the new fuse should fit within this.

Not an overly big outlay to find out anyway, I'll just buy one and see if it fits, and then post back.

Last edited on Fri Oct 2nd, 2009 05:41 am by m_ouwerkerk

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 Posted: Tue Oct 6th, 2009 11:46 pm
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fixit45
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Great work!! I have kept the heater plate I had to replace recently .. (au$ 123, US$109).

I have 3 machines in family close friends.. thats 6 heater plates..sure to need another one one day..

just one thought .. hope it will carry the current.. might need to be up to 6.5Amp which is total current for a single drawer.. 

If it cant carry this current, what about installing 2 in parallel? might need some expert electrical advice.. 
 

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 Posted: Wed Oct 7th, 2009 12:13 am
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m_ouwerkerk
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I don't think amps will be a problem, generally in this temp range they can support about 10 amps - problem I have now is that I can't find the 275 degree items anymore - can't remember where I saw them.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 9th, 2009 08:50 am
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m_ouwerkerk wrote: ... problem I have now is that I can't find the 275 degree items anymore - can't remember where I saw them.

did you ever find the 275 C ones ?



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 Posted: Sun Oct 11th, 2009 10:09 pm
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m_ouwerkerk
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Still looking, can get 240 degree C easily enough, otherwise have to deal direct with exporters in China, and a bit hesitant as they appear to be individuals rather than a creditable retailer.

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