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Frigidaire Dishwasher Model # PLD2850RDC2 DEAD!!??  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 03:56 pm
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bcippola
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Frigidaire Dishwasher Model # PLD2850RDC2  DEAD!!??
Lack of work has clouded my technical skills and testing ability


Dishwasher is completely dead. No lights on display. Power is getting to door latch and control board but no display lit and no worky...  I am stumped due to lack of service calls and out of practice. Please help. I have tech sheet and that still didnt elp me. How do I test latch kit on this unit with 4 wires. My instinct says bad main control board?


Last edited on Tue Aug 25th, 2009 04:03 pm by bcippola

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 Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 05:11 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Door Interlock switches each side of the power line ...

With the Door closed, you should have:

120v from P3-7 (White) to P1 (Black)

120v from P3-7 (White) to P3-6 (Black)

 

 



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 Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:41 pm
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bcippola
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Thanks REG. That all checked out so I am thinking board?

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 Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:54 pm
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denrayr
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pull the board out of the casing and check for bad solder joints.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 12:14 pm
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bcippola
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I have checked the board high and low and see no issues if I even know what bad solder joints look like. You recommended that a year or 2 back on a Kenmore I worked on and still cant differentiate a bad solder from a good. I am assuming my main control board is bad. Anyone else have any thoughts? Thanks for responses.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 06:17 pm
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denrayr
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a bad solder joint will have a crack at the base. sometimes its obvious, sometimes its not. Take a flashlight and a magnifying glass if necessary and check the base of each joint concentrating on the joints below relays and the pins where the wiring plugs into.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 06:43 pm
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bcippola
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Last edited on Wed Aug 26th, 2009 07:04 pm by bcippola

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 Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 08:26 pm
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bcippola
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No cracks at solder joint and new board didnt work. I checked every connection for power with lighted power stick. Had power from all door switch wires to main control board to display board and ribbons. Could the latch still be bad. How should it ohm out if it all with latch open and shut.


Thanks

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 Posted: Sat Aug 29th, 2009 09:57 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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 bcippola wrote: ... I checked every connection for power with lighted power stick...

RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Door Interlock switches each side of the power line ...

With the Door closed, you should have:

120v from P3-7 (White) to P1 (Black)

120v from P3-7 (White) to P3-6 (Black)

can't check with power stick ...



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 Posted: Wed Sep 2nd, 2009 01:28 am
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BLTH15
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the black connector where the touch cntl plugs in,i don't have schematic to say it's the p1 p2....sorry but their should be dc voltage. with a multimeter check voltage from 1st to last pin then leave probe on one end and go to each connector looking for voltage. if it's there then touch cntl is bad, if no dc volts board is bad.

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